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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author

Oceanoid


freesolo

12-Apr-2009
2:14:44 AM

the 'crux' move from the initial corner over to the face has good holds. the first time i led it, i made the moves perfectly, but the next two times i screwed up the sequence. there is a placement for the crux but one time my nut popped out just as i made the move.
the upper section of the first pitch is very nice. but the second pitch is a disappointment and there was heinous rope drag. i wanted to do the 10 meter crack above the second pitch which is why we did it.


mankrambler

12-Apr-2009
8:26:32 PM

the little crack above Ocenoid is a full-value grade 16 called French crack (every move is at least 16!). Don't think it's all over after ocenoid before you do FC to top out on the Pharos--Oceanoid feels easier! Take some 2x length slings for oceanoid (the high wire to the right of the crux roof on p1 needs one). Rope drag on the second pitch can be easily avoided by managing your ropes properly--hardly a problem with the pitch itself... The problem is that the chimney just wants to spit you out. its awkward.


cruze

12-Apr-2009
8:39:53 PM

BETA BETA

I put a #1 TCU opposing a #3 BD hex (quite small - medium wire would suffice) at the crux on P1. Made doing the move feel safe as houses. From memory the fractured rock in the first third of the pitch was a little off putting - make sure you use long slings so that the final move which is balancy isn't thwarted.
P2 is awkward the taller you are.
French Crack is a little gem.

Get on them all!!!

Whilst in the area, the 18 called transatlantic crossing to the left of Oceanoid P1 is harder than Oceanoid - P2 is a rip snorter of a two move wonder. I reckon 17 is right on for oceanoid if you are wondering about which 17 to get on as your first (ie there are easier ones - surface to air if you have a little reach and/or gumption).

patto

13-Apr-2009
8:50:47 PM

On 9/04/2009 The good Dr wrote:
>I would say that the above is really the only true on-sight given the
>following:
>
>- If you read the guidebook, you have beta (flash)
>- If someone tells you where it is, you have beta (flash)
>- If you discuss it with your buddy below the climb, you have beta (flash)
>- If you talk about the climb with anyone, you have beta (flash)
>
>Which basically means that very few people have onsighted anything and
>that they are all claiming false credit for their climbing prowess. Which
>means that you (yes YOU, ie the general climbing population) are a bunch
>of cheating liars. But we all sort of knew that all along didn't we ;)

Exactly my thoughts. Though personally I don't care for distinctions such as on sight and flash.

I'm always happy to ask others about the climb beforehand in my mind I don't see how this is any more 'beta' than looking at the guidebook photo or reading the description.

That said I have on more than one occasion climbed a line that I just looked up and decided that looked climbable. No guide book, nobody telling me about it, maybe it hasn't even been climbed.

One Day Hero

15-Apr-2009
11:18:01 PM

On 7/04/2009 Mike Bee wrote:
>
>Mate, not trying to sling shit or have a go at you, but thats pretty lame.
>
>Climbing isn't about how strong or good you can make others thing you
>are, it's about enjoying yourself and the movement. If you like to climb
>hard and chase grades, thats great, but trying to bullshit your partner
>about if it was an "onsight" or a "flash" is cheating and lying to yourself
>as much as it is to him.

Wow, talk about missing the point!! Some of my most cherished climbing memories involve some
combination of lying, cheating, and secretly wiring the shit out of a slippery horror in order to facilitate
more lying and cheating.

Mike, I don't know what you do for fun but I would suggest that you don't knock other peoples hobbies
until you've tried them!

There are 25 messages in this topic.