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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias Direct / Lord Gumtree / #6 cam!
widewetandslippery
13/03/2009
11:36:56 AM
There are so many inappropriate things I could say but they would be too rude even for a friday funnies thread.........hehehehe

Capt_mulch
13/03/2009
12:02:57 PM
You are a sick and twisted puppy.
fish boy
13/03/2009
6:52:31 PM
Gold! So much good cam booty on the Buff at the moment.There are two other climbs on the north wall with nice cams in them...

wallwombat
17/04/2009
6:37:02 PM
Just looking at the gear list for Ozy and it says you need Aliens 1-5.

Is this true or will other small cams suffice?
fish boy
17/04/2009
7:28:48 PM
Anything will do WW. My C3's got WAY more of a workout on the first pitches compared to my aliens as they slot into the pin scars as good as a hybrid alien....

wallwombat
17/04/2009
8:08:30 PM
On 17/04/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Anything will do WW. My C3's got WAY more of a workout on the first pitches
>compared to my aliens as they slot into the pin scars as good as a hybrid
>alien....

Suspected as much. Thanks Fishy.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/04/2009
3:02:01 AM
For more challenge you can always leave the slcds behind and go with a clean-aid ye olde nutted ascent...

:)
brendan
11/05/2009
9:26:03 AM
just got back from climbing ozy direct with a mate, some observations
-we had a BD no 5 cam and two no 4 cams which did make things easier, i would say take a number 5 or use a number 4 with a block of wood if you can't get a number 5
-"big grassy" or "big rocky"as we called it sucks as a bivy site, i have heard from some one that it comfortably sleeps two. We just fitted on it with my feet hanging over the edge (i think some of the dirt from the ledge may have washed off??)
-it would be an idea if its your first wall to bivy at the bottom to make sure you reach big grassy on your first day, as you will proberably be moving slow and accessing the wall took us longer then we thought
-a belay chair made from a plank of wood and rope was gold for the hanging belays
-the is a couple of short aid routes to practise on by the disabled lookout, to get you systems dialed in etc
-we were slow and used the two bolts to get back from ozy original to ozy direct just below the roof (go-go gadget arms) as the two pitches of ozy orignal to the roof are easier

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/05/2009
12:33:10 PM
On 11/05/2009 brendan wrote:
>just got back from climbing ozy direct with a mate,

Well done on your ascent of Ozy, and good of you to give further feedback*.

>-"big grassy" or "big rocky"as we called it sucks as a bivy site, i have
>heard from some one that it comfortably sleeps two. We just fitted on it
>with my feet hanging over the edge (i think some of the dirt from the ledge
>may have washed off??)

It has changed a lot since the mid 90's. It used to be relatively large and reasonably flattish, then became stepped as water dropping off the roof/s above eroded the soil, and now it is largely bare rock with all the angles and slopes that go with same.
... ~> compared with the hanging belays it is still however a bit of luxury to be there!


(*any chance of a Trip Report as well?)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Post edit re;
>(*any chance of a Trip Report as well?)

X-ref to the subsequent TR posted here, on 12/05/09.



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There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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