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27-Jan-2009 2:54:24 PM
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Hi All, this is my first post to Chockstone.
We were at Dog Rocks yesterday for a great day's climbing, and I managed my first ever onsight on a
route that is apparently unnamed... It's to the left of the crack 10cm crack and the tree near Jewellery. A
fairly crimpy/slabby route, maybe 20m (maybe) 3 bolts, the first one about 10m up. Top-out is a single
bolt belay under the cool shade of the tree.
Seemed to me like around a 17? Anyone know anything about this route? What did you think of it? Any
other ascents?
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27-Jan-2009 4:29:35 PM
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I did it a while ago. Its listed as an unnamed 16 on thecrag.com
I cant remember whether its listed in guide or update somewhere, but I don't think it has a name. I thought it was a pretty fun slab route.
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27-Jan-2009 5:01:49 PM
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Yeah I thoroughly enjoyed it. We were looking at it from the ground, and it looks like it could be
straightened right out with an extra bolt toward the left arete.
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27-Jan-2009 5:09:29 PM
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The arete caught my eye as well. I toproped it as direct start at around grade 21. Was fairly good climbing with a few little crimps.
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28-Jan-2009 9:53:34 AM
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20m? You're on drugs dude. I'd say 10m max. The route you're talking about used to have a nice little undercling but now it has gone. It is a late addition squeeze job going where there is no route....and everything is breaking off it.
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28-Jan-2009 12:11:56 PM
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well since the first bolt is about 5 above the deck, I'd estimate a fair bit more, but whatever.
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28-Jan-2009 4:04:47 PM
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One or two hard moves, clip a bolt, then walk two more and you're at the top. How long is Jewellery?
I'd rather waste my time on Painless....
Anyway...
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28-Jan-2009 4:41:59 PM
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oh you are right, it's only 13m 16. If it were to be straightened out long the arete, I reckon you could get it
up as high as 17m, and up a grade or two.
Worth a thought.
Anyone have any idea who bolted it? Looks reasonably new for the most part.
Anyway, my first onsight proper, scared ma a tad, but what would I know, I'm just a noob to this "Sharp
End" stuff...
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30-Jan-2009 9:42:21 AM
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If you are in the Bendigo area, drop in on Steve Morris from Rock Hardware. I forgot who bolted it, maybe Chris Cope (Kanya on here)....
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30-Jan-2009 11:07:38 AM
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how about you guys pool all your local knowledge in ACA?
The Mt Alex section is here - it's dead easy to add route descriptions:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=subregion®ion_id=84
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30-Jan-2009 11:39:39 AM
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Might do WM. How did you know about the rocks opposite Blue Tongue? I am out of touch, but my impression was that Alex from Bendigo OE ran in there with his drill and now there are some issues. I have never met anyone who has climbing there, but it is located very much on private property and the owner is/was npot happy.
Will find out.
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30-Jan-2009 1:23:22 PM
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they are in thecrag.com !
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30-Jan-2009 1:26:43 PM
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Anyone got any info on the short corner with two U bolts? Its uphill and right from little bo peep or downhill from the 19 with one bolt.
I reckon its a pretty good area for the 17-20 climber.
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30-Jan-2009 4:09:51 PM
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On 30/01/2009 rolsen1 wrote:
>Anyone got any info on the short corner with two U bolts? Its uphill and
>right from little bo peep or downhill from the 19 with one bolt.
>
>I reckon its a pretty good area for the 17-20 climber.
It was a project of mine. Pretty good bouldery route, but a bit sharp. Probably 27 i'd say.
It's open to anyone who's keen.
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30-Jan-2009 4:35:24 PM
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On 30/01/2009 kp wrote:
>It was a project of mine. Pretty good bouldery route, but a bit sharp.
> Probably 27 i'd say.
>
Don't you mean 'is' a project of yours KP? Now that you live in Vic again you got no excuse...
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30-Jan-2009 4:43:40 PM
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Huh? I tried a short corner with two staples or u's (I forgot) to the right of LBP and got it. I must be thinking of something differant because I climb way way below 27 Kent. When did this thing go in?
I hadn't seen the listing on the crag before...
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30-Jan-2009 5:11:25 PM
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On 30/01/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Huh? I tried a short corner with two staples or u's (I forgot) to the right
>of LBP and got it. I must be thinking of something differant because I
>climb way way below 27 Kent. When did this thing go in?
>
>I hadn't seen the listing on the crag before...
Its on a round boulder above LBP. It's got strange blocky granite, slightly overhung. I never listed it as i never did it. I imagine it was bolted around 2 years ago.
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30-Jan-2009 5:19:51 PM
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On 30/01/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Might do WM. How did you know about the rocks opposite Blue Tongue? I am
>out of touch, but my impression was that Alex from Bendigo OE ran in there
>with his drill and now there are some issues. I have never met anyone who
>has climbing there, but it is located very much on private property and
>the owner is/was npot happy.
>
>Will find out.
I climbed there once with mr B. It was pretty low angled, so a bit dirty and not that great. I wouldn't recommend a visit, especially if it's on private property.
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31-Jan-2009 12:32:40 AM
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Yeah, thought as much....I looked at it from afar and left it that way.
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31-Jan-2009 5:39:00 PM
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On 30/01/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Huh? I tried a short corner with two staples or u's (I forgot) to the right
>of LBP and got it. I must be thinking of something differant because I
>climb way way below 27 Kent. When did this thing go in?
>
>I hadn't seen the listing on the crag before...
You have to scramble up to get to the start. The top U seem quite high to me.
What grade do you reckon then?
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