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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Mt Buffalo Gorge - North Wall descent.
DMWdesign
26/06/2014
11:14:00 PM
On 26/06/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 26/06/2014 DMWdesign hassled chocky again:
>>Is that to the right, facing the cliff?
>
>>Facing the cliff, are the two further abseils down Comet Ramp on the
>left
>>or right?
>>
>You are going down yes?
>It is obvious which way is down when you get there.
>This is a climbing site mate. Almost every reference to L + R is (as traditionally
>done) facing the cliff unless specifically noted otherwise.
>
>When you eventually get on it, don't forget to come back to us with a
>trip report, so you can hassle again with questions about how to post pictures.
>
>
>There ya go M9. Fixed that for ya.
>
>Ay gfdonc bro. D Man Wdesign is a rapper not a climber. It's obvious you
>saved yourself the pain of reading earlier posts.
>How can I get that 10 mins of my life back?

thanks guys for clarification
I promise no more questions - and I won't bore you with the pics!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/06/2014
10:42:16 AM
On 26/06/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>thanks guys for clarification
>I promise no more questions - and I won't bore you with the pics!

Don’t be disheartened by a plain-typing DD post, DMW.
It comes from one of our resident (often perceived as being trolls*), Chocky posters.
(* They are a bit chameleon like as they change from time to time!)
If you hang around Chockstone long enough you will realise they are lightweight yet colourful threads of the Chockstone Posting Tapestry.

Re a Trip Report; I for one would be interested to see how you go, and it may also help the wider readership if they get feedback on how useful you find the information you have gleaned from this site (especially updates on anything that may have changed), before/after embarking on your adventure.
For those of us who might take such things a little bit for granted, it is always good to see things from another perspective.

Re photos; they are easy enough as long as they are smaller than about 65kb & less wide than 700 pixels.
http://www.chockstone.org/upload/files-upload.asp


On 26/06/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>There ya go M9. Fixed that for ya.
>>
I see the irony!

DMWdesign
27/06/2014
6:17:05 PM
On 27/06/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>Don’t be disheartened by a plain-typing DD post, DMW.

thanks for your words of encouragement M9
I'll post feedback on the route after the trip
and maybe a photo

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/08/2014
1:34:24 PM
Under the floorboards a couple of months has gone by...
=================================================================

On 23/06/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>>When are you undertaking this adventure of yours?
>
>I am planning on doing this trip sometime in November - longer days & dryer rock

I notice you have logged in frequently since you posted the above message, so I assume you are aware of the upcoming Buffalo Wallathon 22-23 Nov?

You might like to join us and share* a campsite? ~> though others will likely be camped on the wall...
It might be handy to have experienced backup in the area at the time??
(*Minimises costs all around...)

As a heads up if you have not noticed already on that thread, it is likely that Defender will be getting a solo ascent during that time, though knowing the person involved I expect it will only be a single day affair.
DMWdesign
28/10/2014
8:44:25 AM
On 27/06/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>Re a Trip Report; I for one would be interested to see how you go, and
>it may also help the wider readership if they get feedback on how useful
>you find the information you have gleaned from this site (especially updates
>on anything that may have changed), before/after embarking on your adventure.
.........


Thanks M9 for all your info about the route.

As planned, I did the trip a few days ago. - a great day out and the first three abseils were very exciting.
The whole area had a great atmosphere and the exposure was awesome.
We used 60m ropes and carried spare 50s. We also used basic walky-talkies which we found indispensable.

The route info given was accurate. We extended the first anchor as suggested. Not having been there before, it was a bit hard deciding on the correct line of the first abseil, but it was OK in the end. Someone had kindly secured a piece of carpet for edge protection at the first rap ledge. We scrambled down the last 20m of the last abseil on Comet Ramp and found the start of the climbers track relatively easily. The walk out was straightforward and track easy to follow.

We had a couple of bad luck dramas but these were successfully resolved and added to whole adventure. On the first abseil, at the rope retrieval, the end of the rope fell down and got firmly stuck around a flake (or fluke!) of rock about 15m up. I did eventually free it, but you’d be horrified if I told you how.

At the rope retrieval on the second abseil the rope fell down and decided to loop itself tightly around a small bush down to the left of an overhanging part of the cliff. – about 6m off the line of the rap. It probably would have pulled off during the abseil but after the first drama we did not want to take any chances. The work around was looping the abseil rope over a knob of rock at the far left end of the ledge. A bit of an awkward start, but this bought me down closer to the bush. When level with bush I locked off and was able to pull myself across on holds on the overhang and free the rope. After I was down, my mate retrieved the rope from the knob and abseiled directly from the bolts.

We checked out Dave Chitty’s (?) abseil point on the high point of Comet Ramp and next time I would probably abseil from there as the last two abseils in the gully are fairly uninspiring – although they do get you closer to the climbing track.

Thanks again for your help


awkward start on third abseil

rope snag (below right) on third abseil

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28/10/2014
9:50:21 AM
On 28/10/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>I did eventually free it, but you’d be horrified if I told you how.

Sounds like you are transitioning from abseiling to climbing ;-) ...
?
~> A good move!!!
Heh, heh, heh.

>abseil point on the high point of Comet Ramp
Yes, it is DC's.
I have not yet continued that line myself, but strongly suspect that his mob does that whole wall as two abseils, that being; one from the top to Fuhrer Ledge, then the second from that anchor to the base. If this is the case, then you may end up having to find/rely on a natural anchor below it if using standard length ropes.


Thanks for the feedback to this site.

You can now plan/do other abseiling adventures on the north wall ☺, though you will want a longer* rope if doing the Ozymandias overhangs.

(*A 200 m rope rigged off the boulders just outside (north side) Wilkinsons lookout gets you to the hanging belay below Big Grassy ledge.)
DMWdesign
7/11/2014
6:28:25 AM
On 27/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Under the floorboards a couple of months has gone by...
>===============================================================

>You might like to join us and share* a campsite? ~> though others will
>likely be camped on the wall...

Thanks M9
Coincidently I will be at Buffalo that weekend on an Abseilers' Picnic, camping at Lake Catani, so we may catch up.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/11/2014
9:35:28 PM
On 7/11/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>On 27/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>Under the floorboards a couple of months has gone by...
>>===============================================================
>
>>You might like to join us and share* a campsite? ~> though others will
>>likely be camped on the wall...
>
>Thanks M9
>Coincidently I will be at Buffalo that weekend on an Abseilers' Picnic,
>camping at Lake Catani, so we may catch up.

I look forward to the meeting...
Re:
>we may catch up
I am likely camping on phillipivans site 12, under a tarp attached to an orange motorcycle.
Look for the oldest bugger there and it likely will be me!
Heh, heh, heh.

If our campsites end up as overflowing, do you mind taking extras on yours to help defray your costs? (and vice versa is OK too, I add! ☺)

Hmm.
Abseilers picnic?
1st I have heard of such an event.
What are your intended 'routes' on that weekend?
DMWdesign
9/11/2014
10:26:54 PM
On 7/11/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I look forward to the meeting...
>Re:
>>we may catch up
>I am likely camping on phillipivans site 12, under a tarp attached to
>an orange motorcycle.
>Look for the oldest bugger there and it likely will be me!
>Heh, heh, heh.
>
>If our campsites end up as overflowing, do you mind taking extras on yours
>to help defray your costs? (and vice versa is OK too, I add! ☺)

yep, no worries, there will be 5 of us in 3 tents over 2 sites

>Hmm.
>Abseilers picnic?
>1st I have heard of such an event.
>What are your intended 'routes' on that weekend?

- and you just look for the second oldest bugger on Mt. Buffalo at sites 02 &03!

I was trying to be funny about the abseilers picnic.

I am up for the weekend, originally intending to do the big north wall abseil with Dave Chitty, but my wife reckons a 160m abseil is too boring and the big climb out too hard, You can't win! So we are now doing a lesser trip on the south wall. DC said it wasn't worth his while doing the north wall with only three people and it was going to be too expensive anyway, so now there is 5 of us doing the south wall. The plan is to abseil one day and do a day walk the other. This is actually a club trip with the VMTC (Victorian Mountain Tramping Club) of which I have been a member for the last 38 years.

While I am up there I would be keen to see what you climbers are doing and I would also like to show the others the view of the North Wall and the Defender rap which I would like to do again some time.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

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