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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 108
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Taipan Super Topo....

nmonteith
22/11/2005
2:34:10 PM
On 22/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
> the water groove through the steepening? That might even go from the
>ground one day you know...or
>coming out of the great divide corner. Very good.

I didn't see much in the way of holds directly below the groove. Blank slick rock. There were a few flakes
but they seemed miles apart. At least in the mid 30's if not impossible i thought. My route starts to the
rigth of the groove and monkeys across a horizontal break for a few metres to the scoop, then up it and
punches out the right side of the little cave feature on crimps for the top section. Grade 25. Drill problems
hampered progress last weekend.
duglash
22/11/2005
8:13:18 PM
>Be there in three weeks if you want a belayer dougie...

I don't mean to boast but I nearly redpointed a 24 the other day (on toprope - a breakthrough in
terminology in itself) so I'm afraid it'll be all over by the time you're here Chris. I'll do what I can though to
bump you to the start of the repeat queue.

.. how about I give you a belay

nmonteith
23/11/2005
6:40:04 PM
Sneak peak...
Monkey man
23/11/2005
8:06:50 PM
Looking good mate...
Onsight
23/11/2005
10:27:53 PM
> Sneak peak..

Ooooh... you tease!

Mick
24/11/2005
12:28:13 PM
Where do we place our order!!!

nmonteith
24/11/2005
12:46:03 PM
I don't really have any pans to do a professional print run of these things. I don't actually have a clue how
to go about printing a commercial quantity of A2 sized posters for a cheap price. The way i do my mega
photo posters normally costs about $50 a pop. The topo is formatted for 32"x20" @ 300dpi. Any printers
out there care to give me a quote?
Dave J
24/11/2005
1:16:04 PM
On 22/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>There is a single slightly rusty bolt on the arete. Looks funky and very
>fun. Not sure where you would
>join into it - possibly from Clean Sweep? It's all your Dave.

I went out and did the grooved arete yeserday with rich heap...Fairly exciting (that rusty bolt was by far
the best bit of gear on the route).
Dave J
24/11/2005
1:17:48 PM
topo looks good so far neil

nmonteith
24/11/2005
1:21:15 PM
On 24/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>I went out and did the grooved arete yeserday with rich heap...Fairly
>exciting (that rusty bolt was by far
>the best bit of gear on the route).

Well done! Name? Grade? Please tell me my static is still there.
Dave J
24/11/2005
1:52:49 PM
On 24/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>Well done! Name? Grade? Please tell me my static is still there.

Name and grade yet to be confirmed (25ish)...The static is still there. We used it to get down when we
we're done in fact. Thanks. Nice not to have to lug double ropes up the and then have them get stuck in
the chains etc etc...very user friendly.

nmonteith
24/11/2005
2:05:27 PM
Good to see grade 25 new routes are still possible on Taipan!
Onsight
24/11/2005
3:07:51 PM
On 24/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>I don't really have any pans to do a professional print run of these things.
>I don't actually have a clue how >to go about printing a commercial quantity of A2 sized posters for a cheap >price. The way i do my mega >photo posters normally costs about $50 a pop. The topo is formatted for >32"x20" @ 300dpi. Any printers >out there care to give me a quote?

Not a problem Neil. I'll pass it on to our merchandising department to source some printing costs and get back to you on that one. Things are a bit busy here at the moment though so please allow a few days…

alrob
24/11/2005
4:18:25 PM
better not make it too expensive though. i don't particularly want to punch holes in a $70 poster, as i pin all the crux notes and hold by hold beta for the routes up on it.

nmonteith
24/11/2005
4:33:24 PM
I can't imagine it will be more than $20 a poster. Thats if I can be bothered printing them...
WM
27/11/2005
9:59:12 PM
>I went out and did the grooved arete yeserday with rich heap...Fairly
>exciting (that rusty bolt was by far
>the best bit of gear on the route).

Wow it looks so much harder than 25... which way did you get onto the arete? from clean sweep? (ie the right hand yellow line in this photo ?)

Also does anyone know anything about the 2 bolts and ancient bail biner which break out left from the Cardigan street first belay?


Dave J
29/11/2005
5:11:05 PM
On 27/11/2005 WM wrote:
>>I went out and did the grooved arete yeserday with rich heap...Fairly
>>exciting (that rusty bolt was by far
>>the best bit of gear on the route).
>
>Wow it looks so much harder than 25...

May be a bit harder???...perhaps you should go and repeat it.

> which way did you get onto the
>arete? from clean sweep? (ie the right hand yellow line in this photo ?)
>

From the right....kind of up the right hand yellow line in your picture but more going diagonally up the
arete than straight up the face and then traversing left (that bit's not too bad really). As far as rope
drag...we actually went out and had a hanging belay on the arete...This is the way Ive always done Dance
of Life and Clean Sweep ...It gets the nuisance aid move out of the way and then you're at a stance from
which you can can do both (or all three) routes without fear of rope drag. Rich Heap actually lead it in the
end ...I made it as far as the bolt but was to traumatised and exhausted to go on. Then rich worked out
the move past the bolt and the rest was not too bad.

>Also does anyone know anything about the 2 bolts and ancient bail biner
>which break out left from the Cardigan street first belay?

That was Malcolm's vision for the second pitch of mirage. Why he thought that the big obvious groove of
Cardigan Street was unclimbable and that heading off into the middle of the blank wall to the left was a
better option, I'll never know.

nmonteith
5/12/2005
3:19:57 PM
Consumer Taipan at its best.... a new route for anyone who can be bothered. This one actually has
non-rusty bolts!

** Divided Years 16m 24/25
Steep scoopy ‘World Party’ start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers
who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan. This route is a rap in and climb out affair
between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the
Dance Of Life rap chains. Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break.
You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor – the wall is steep! Traverse left
across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this
cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is
required in the trad department.
FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Hannah Lockie 4.12.2005

Dodgy photos are here...
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/1017045/2/47118608

nmonteith
6/12/2005
3:37:40 PM
A question...

Whats the story with the fixed 4m section of rope between the two bolts of the 'free variant' of the 2nd
pitch of The Seventh Pillar? It is plainly visible in this photo up high...
http://www.chockstone.org/Grampians/TaipanWall/Members/NeilM/Seventh-Pillar-Mark07l.jpg

Do people use this to easily aid via the pull through method to skip the hard aid section on the normal
route? It bloody ugly and i imagine quite annoying if you actually wanted to do the grade 28 free
version. Is this a relatively new addition - or has it been there since time immortal? I was tempted to
chop it off on the weekend....


Dave J
6/12/2005
4:39:11 PM
On 6/12/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>A question...
>
>Whats the story with the fixed 4m section of rope between the two bolts
>of the 'free variant' of the 2nd
>pitch of The Seventh Pillar? It is plainly visible in this photo up high...
>http://www.chockstone.org/Grampians/TaipanWall/Members/NeilM/Seventh-Pillar-Mark07l.jpg
>Do people use this to easily aid via the pull through method to skip the
>hard aid section on the normal
>route? It bloody ugly and i imagine quite annoying if you actually wanted
>to do the grade 28 free
>version. Is this a relatively new addition - or has it been there since
>time immortal? I was tempted to
>chop it off on the weekend....
>
>
I noticed that the other day too...certainly wasnt there when I did the route...I cant imagine that it would
make life much easier for anyone wanting to aid the route either....and would be pretty temped to chop it if
I were there with a knife. It would be pretty horrific to blow the dyno just there and have your leg get
caught in the rope on the way past.


And good one with the route by the way...Do you think it would be possible to climb up into it from the top
of Daedelus?


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There are 108 messages in this topic.

 

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