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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 5 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 108
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Taipan Super Topo....

Safer Cliffs Vic
31/07/2007
4:40:24 PM
refering to Naja

On 31/07/2007 Dave J wrote:
>From memory the number postion of the bolts were pretty good....at least
>on the top pitch which is
>wherre people wold be falling off....the anchor at the belay could probably
>be improved....and and
>anchor at the top probably wouldnt hurt either.
>
>Have you tried the route? I dont know of anyone who's done it???

I belayed Zac on it for a few days at the beginning of winter (the start of the wet season!) He got so
close, so many times but no cigar. The problem was the mist kept clinging to the finish holds and
made it very slippery so he would slip off. The running water mixed with bird poo wasn't thatnice either!
He was trying to connect the two pitches together, which was pretty logical. A single 60m rope allowed
him to lower-off form the top back to the ground.

>if you want to replace the bolts I'll give you some money for it....let
>me know what it comes to.

The bolts look okish for the moment.

Zac was raving about a possible grade '23' (!!!) that would go up the scooped face just to the left of
Naja's second pitch. I think he was being optimstic about the grade.
Dave J
1/08/2007
12:41:27 PM
On 31/07/2007 Safer Cliffs Vic wrote:
>refering to Naja
>
>On 31/07/2007 Dave J wrote:
>>From memory the number postion of the bolts were pretty good....at least
>>on the top pitch which is
>>wherre people wold be falling off....the anchor at the belay could probably
>>be improved....and and
>>anchor at the top probably wouldnt hurt either.
>>
>>Have you tried the route? I dont know of anyone who's done it???
>
>I belayed Zac on it for a few days at the beginning of winter (the start
>of the wet season!) He got so
>close, so many times but no cigar. The problem was the mist kept clinging
>to the finish holds and
>made it very slippery so he would slip off. The running water mixed with
>bird poo wasn't thatnice either!

sounds almost alpine

>He was trying to connect the two pitches together, which was pretty logical.

Yep that would be great....you'd have to take a grade off if you did it like that thought as it would be so
much easier to find belayers.

>A single 60m rope allowed
>him to lower-off form the top back to the ground.
>
>>if you want to replace the bolts I'll give you some money for it....let
>>me know what it comes to.
>
>The bolts look okish for the moment.

Oh well...maybe leave it sit as is then for the time being...

>
>Zac was raving about a possible grade '23' (!!!) that would go up the
>scooped face just to the left of
>Naja's second pitch. I think he was being optimstic about the grade.

Yep...I would be very surprised if it something went up there at 23 (32 is probably closer to the mark...
most likely somewhere in the middle)....absolutely there would be a great looking bridging route to do
there. I remember thinking it might be a good way to the obvious water groove to the right too since it
didnt have a start (I think its been done now with a batman start and finishing at a chain part way up).
Im pretty sure the top of that one will go but not convinced about the start. If you were lookin to do the
route free all the way to the top then the belay on Naja might be a good way to go..then you could
have 3 routes all branching out from that ledge....or, like Zac was doing, big long pitches which share
the same start....its not great climbing though that first bit....24ish, scrambling and a bit ledgy with a
bit of a move in the middle. The top bit is where the good climbing is.

Anyway its good to know its been seeing a bit of action if not any repeats.
WM
1/08/2007
1:09:49 PM
On 1/08/2007 Dave J wrote:
>there would be a great looking bridging route to do there. I remember thinking it might be a
> good way to the obvious water groove to the right too since it didnt have a start (I think its
> been done now with a batman start and finishing at a chain part way up).
>Im pretty sure the top of that one will go but not convinced about the start.

Hey Dave there's some discussion of that groove (currently 28M1 and called Nether), over here.

Safer Cliffs Vic
1/08/2007
1:46:52 PM
Zac actually had as much trouble with the first pitch dyno as the second pitch crux! He only hit the
bottom move 50% of the time - so pitch 1 is SOLID 27 at least i think.
Dave J
1/08/2007
3:20:26 PM
>Hey Dave there's some discussion of that groove (currently 28M1 and called
>Nether), over here.

Thats the one.

I dont know...I'm sure the climbing is good...but its still a route with out start or a finish...call me old
fashioned but I reckon a route still needs at least one of those two things.

When it gets done to the top though it will be absolutely amazing

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/08/2007
3:24:47 PM
>I dont know...I'm sure the climbing is good...but its still a route with out start or a finish...call me old fashioned but I reckon a route still needs at least one of those two things.
I agree with your sentiment; ...otherwise (imo), they are variants or link-ups.
Heh, heh, heh.

Safer Cliffs Vic
1/08/2007
3:41:17 PM
I believe the start HAS been bouldered by someone? V9 or V11 or somethign like that?

muki
1/08/2007
3:46:36 PM
On 1/08/2007 Dave wrote:
>I dont know...I'm sure the climbing is good...but its still a route with
>out start or a finish...call me old fashioned but I reckon a route still
>needs at least one of those two things.
Imgoncoconutsamesame wrote:
>I agree with your sentiment; ...otherwise (imo), they are variants or
>link-ups.
>Heh, heh, heh.
But in truth, a climb that has no begining or end, is nothing! it is definitatly not a variant or a link up!
dalai
1/08/2007
4:36:42 PM
All climbs will have a beginning and end, just that these points may be arbitrary in your view Bomber...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/08/2007
4:54:53 PM
>a climb that has no begining or end, is nothing!
Ahh, don't tell me that or I will become existentially disappointed!

>All climbs will have a beginning and end, just that these points may be arbitrary in your view
... and mine too!

btw 1, I reckon (generally), the start should be on the ground and the end should be on the top.
btw 2, I prefer rum with my coconut milk, ... & without the little umbrella!
Heh, heh, heh.

muki
1/08/2007
5:12:41 PM
If a climb has no begining, then you never start climbing! therefore no end!
A climb of this nature (I concur with dave) does not exist.

Safer Cliffs Vic
1/08/2007
5:32:11 PM
Currently it's just a batman start, like many other routes in the Bluies.

gordoste
1/08/2007
5:37:23 PM
On 1/08/2007 Safer Cliffs Vic wrote:
>like many other routes in the Bluies.

NEWSFLASH: NSW climbers raided the Grampians and made off with various crags, including Taipan wall, which is now located about 10 minutes from Centennial Glen.



Chuck Norris
1/08/2007
5:37:34 PM
so it has a middle...no beginning and no end...
Nottobetaken
1/08/2007
6:30:29 PM
Clearly, this is a conversation that is going places...
kcwat
2/08/2007
7:41:37 AM
was there a beginning to the conversation? I have joined in the middle, but I already wish it was the end.
dalai
2/08/2007
8:59:10 AM
On 1/08/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>If a climb has no begining, then you never start climbing! therefore no
>end!
>A climb of this nature (I concur with dave) does not exist.

So all those classic routes at the Verdon you rap in a couple of pitches, starting a long way from the base are not climbs then?

Sounds very old fashioned Bomber, like the rules used in the old Eastern block where climbs were only allowed when they finished on a summit...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/08/2007
12:13:10 PM
If one falls before reaching the summit does the climb end there, or where they land?

[Please pass me a #5 RP to stir my Pina Colada with Bomb, ... Heh, heh, heh].

Chuck Norris
2/08/2007
12:58:01 PM
maybe we could agree on the following:

1. If it has a beginning and an end it will be called a "route"

2. If it only has an end then it can be called an "oute" (pronounced "out")

3. If it only has middle we can call it an "ou" ....(ie. Where? in french)

Reminds me of a david brent quote...

"there's no "I" in team...but if you look closely there's 'me'"

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/08/2007
1:16:07 PM
Very clever.
I like it, and we can add;

4. If it only has a start we can call it a "ro".

From here, and partially quoted below;
[A new beginning (a symbolic picture language). Ro was an a priori 'philosophical language’ … Why should a word not be a picture?
Ro adopts the alphabet that it finds ready-made, and approved by centuries of use, with the existing form of letters and order of sequence. They already symbolize elementary SOUNDS. Ro makes of them its ideograms. That is, Ro uses them as symbols of elementary IDEAS. Grammarians have already classified words into what they call 'Parts of Speech.' This is but another expression for elements of language].

... or in other words a 'starting', or a 'concept' / an envisaged line/route.

 Page 5 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 108
There are 108 messages in this topic.

 

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