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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 108
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Taipan Super Topo....
simey
20/11/2005
7:40:03 PM
On 19/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>...." the problem with a lot of the routes on Taipan is they have a big edge in the middle of them (like father O...)"

I reckon the ledge at the end of the main difficulties on Father O suits the overall vibe of that particular route.

And is the line you are recommending to Chris the one that Gordy demonstrated his artistic prowess on some years ago?



duglash
20/11/2005
9:12:34 PM
I haven't done a lot of routes on Taipan but i didn't think Father O was as three star as they could get.
It's only got perfect rock and moves, it's not continuous as well..
simey
20/11/2005
9:19:57 PM
Fair enough.
Dave J
21/11/2005
12:46:13 PM
On 20/11/2005 simey wrote:
>And is the line you are recommending to Chris the one that Gordy demonstrated
>his artistic prowess on some years ago?
>

No...Its a seperate route entirely...just left of Feather Boa...Its actually the thing I abseiled down to look at
and then realised that the line of big holds to the right (FB) would be loads easier.
simey
21/11/2005
12:50:45 PM
So how come you are not doing it? Has fatherhood put an end to your hard climbing days?
Dave J
21/11/2005
1:04:25 PM
On 21/11/2005 simey wrote:
>So how come you are not doing it? Has fatherhood put an end to your hard
>climbing days?

If you'd read the route description simey...

>(a great 40 meter pitch 30ish that sneaks off left at the top if your armspan is a bit more than mine or an
>amazing 33/34 if you go straight up and are good at monos).

I dont have AN ARMSPAN LONGER THAN MINE and Im not that good at 33/34 mono climbing....and
whilst Chris (with all due respect) is probably no better at 33/34 mono climbing than me, he does have AN
ARMSPAN LONGER THAN MINE. He'd better be quick though....Doug Hockley read the post and was
around here sniffing this morning.

nmonteith
21/11/2005
1:11:11 PM
Father O had several repeats on the weekend Simey!
simey
21/11/2005
2:15:50 PM
I'm glad to hear that it is such a popular route. Hopefully everyone convinced you that it was three stars. By the way, did the first two bolts ever get replaced? I imagine they are looking a bit rusty. If not, I'll try and get around to it sometime soon.
simey
21/11/2005
2:21:45 PM
On 21/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>If you'd read the route description simey...

Sorry Dave. I was just assuming that a man of your talent was capable pushing the boundaries even more than you had.

While we are being pedantic Dave... Taipan is not spelt Tiapan.

nmonteith
21/11/2005
3:34:43 PM
On 21/11/2005 simey wrote:
>By the way, did the first two bolts ever get
>replaced? I imagine they are looking a bit rusty. If not, I'll try and
>get around to it sometime soon.

They havn't been replaced as far as i know.
Jonesy
21/11/2005
5:11:09 PM
Simey - you're thinking of the 2nd pitch to medusa. I tried it a few times with Woody belaying. The hardest bit at the top past the last bolt can be avoided by scuttling right along a big break then up. It's like cardigan st but on crapper rock. The offending glue was nowhere to be seen, just a friable white toothy scar that you had to crimp on the left of the runnel (before the actual crux). I didn't want to go thru the hassle of redpointing it as it seemed like you'd just break a piece of it off just when you're about to do it. Needed rebolting too - actually now that we're on that subject, the whole wall should be rebolted (especially Father O)

Also Neil - don't forget the Groovy Extension. One of the Cossey's will probably bag it at some stage. Groovy then 2 V8/9's and a ?V10 with big run outs.

Dave - sssh on the left runnel.... I looked at that and went up to the big red jug when I was down jumping FB one arvo. It looks incredible. My only question was whether it had an independent start or would you turn the FB lip then break left?
Jonesy
21/11/2005
5:15:44 PM
On 21/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
> He'd better be quick though....Doug Hockley read the post and was around here sniffing this morning.

Be there in three weeks if you want a belayer dougie...

nmonteith
21/11/2005
5:29:21 PM
I'll be there in 2 weekends - but you don't have to worry about me stealing those projects. I've got my own
mini project up there that needs finishing off. Thats my fixed static down Dance Of Life...
simey
21/11/2005
6:07:21 PM
Neil, is that the line up the arete (it used to have a fixed wire in it)?
Dave J
21/11/2005
7:14:21 PM
On 21/11/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>Simey - you're thinking of the 2nd pitch to medusa. I tried it a few times
>with Woody belaying. The hardest bit at the top past the last bolt can
>be avoided by scuttling right along a big break then up. It's like cardigan
>st but on crapper rock. The offending glue was nowhere to be seen, just
>a friable white toothy scar that you had to crimp on the left of the runnel
>(before the actual crux). I didn't want to go thru the hassle of redpointing
>it as it seemed like you'd just break a piece of it off just when you're
>about to do it. Needed rebolting too - actually now that we're on that
>subject, the whole wall should be rebolted (especially Father O)
>
You can do the move without using that hold at all (and its still easier than the boulder problem at the top)


>
>Dave - sssh on the left runnel.... I looked at that and went up to the
>big red jug when I was down jumping FB one arvo. It looks incredible.
> My only question was whether it had an independent start or would you
>turn the FB lip then break left?
>

No its totally independant from the belay on the ledge at the start. Tricky move to gain a fairly easy flake
that takes you up to a steep section at the height of the feather Boa roof.
Dave J
21/11/2005
7:16:57 PM
On 21/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>I'll be there in 2 weekends - but you don't have to worry about me stealing
>those projects. I've got my own
>mini project up there that needs finishing off. Thats my fixed static
>down Dance Of Life...

Is there already a bolt on it up fairly high (near THE move)?

you'll have to set about freeing the start when you're done.

nmonteith
21/11/2005
8:00:30 PM
On 21/11/2005 simey wrote:
>Neil, is that the line up the arete (it used to have a fixed wire in it)?

Nope. ;-)
Dave J
22/11/2005
12:26:57 PM
On 21/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>On 21/11/2005 simey wrote:
>>Neil, is that the line up the arete (it used to have a fixed wire in
>it)?
>
>Nope. ;-)
You would have no qualms about someone going out and doing the arete then? That was something I
always meant to go and do (having alseiled past it about a million times)...and then I had a feeling that
Steve monks had decided to do it ...and may even have put a bolt in there...but I dont think he ever
actually got on it....and that was years ago....hmmmm

nmonteith
22/11/2005
12:44:30 PM
On 22/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>You would have no qualms about someone going out and doing the arete then?

No Taipan is ALL MINE. Stay away! Its my precious... precious...

>That was something I
>always meant to go and do (having alseiled past it about a million times)...and
>then I had a feeling that
>Steve monks had decided to do it ...and may even have put a bolt in there..

There is a single slightly rusty bolt on the arete. Looks funky and very fun. Not sure where you would
join into it - possibly from Clean Sweep? It's all your Dave. My route is a rap in climb out affair
between Great Divide and Daedalus.
Dave J
22/11/2005
1:07:39 PM
On 22/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>On 22/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>>You would have no qualms about someone going out and doing the arete
>then?
>
>No Taipan is ALL MINE. Stay away! Its my precious... precious...
>There is a single slightly rusty bolt on the arete. Looks funky and very
>fun. Not sure where you would
>join into it - possibly from Clean Sweep? It's all your Dave.

Yep from clean sweep
>My route is a rap in climb out affair
>between Great Divide and Daedalus.

the water groove through the steepening? That might even go from the ground one day you know...or
coming out of the great divide corner. Very good.

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 108
There are 108 messages in this topic.

 

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