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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Victoria Range	Death March Wall	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Author

Death March Wall - New Sporty route


The good Dr

24-Nov-2008
9:16:32 AM

Time for some modernizing of this old lump of stone .....


nmonteith

24-Nov-2008
9:32:26 AM

? Do you plan to bolt it or has it already been done? I thought this was a great example of a trad only area far from the crowds. It would be good to keep it that way I reckon...


Eduardo Slabofvic

24-Nov-2008
10:54:21 AM

Agreed (with Neil)


billk

24-Nov-2008
11:26:21 AM

On 24/11/2008 The good Dr wrote:
>Time for some modernizing of this old lump of stone .....

What's the plan Dr Mark?

kieranl

24-Nov-2008
12:35:44 PM

I would like to see this place left alone too. I'd particularly not want to see any bolts on that beautiful stone in the roof of the cave.
It's one of the regrets of my life that we ever camped in that cave. We should have walked around outside it. To add bolts to it would just compound the damage.


The good Dr

24-Nov-2008
1:03:49 PM

No need to worry, it still remains unsullied by the sound of Bosch.

The Rite of Spring 40m 23 **

Continually interesting, technical and bold climbing on superb rock. Be wary at the start as a ground fall is possible, the headwall has adequate protection (just). Superb gear is available in the middle section. Small cam (0 and 00 Metolius TCU sizes) help.
Start on block as for Not Drowning, But Waving, step left,up to hole and up poorly protected polished light grey streak. Step left to flake ramp. Up wall past obvious undercling to crack of ND,BW. Step right off jug next to crack and weave your way boldly up middle of orange streaked wall to large ledge. Up wall to top. FFA Mark Wood 22-11-08

There was some debate about putting a bolt or two in, particularly on the lower wall where the climbing is about 20/21, a little insecure with a nasty ground fall, and the top wall where there is a big runout. But we decided that the prevailing style of the crag should be maintained and this would also put pressure on other would be FA's to maintain the existing style. I just had to grow the cajones to lead the thing (I also got hailed on whilst on lead on the bottom section!!). We had to sit around a fire in the cave to keep warm for most of the day and to melt all of the hail collecting in large piles at the bottom of the crag.


The good Dr

24-Nov-2008
1:05:25 PM

PS the grade does not reflect the runout nature of the route


muki

24-Nov-2008
1:48:43 PM

On 24/11/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>? Do you plan to bolt it or has it already been done? I thought this was
>a great example of a trad only area far from the crowds. It would be good
>to keep it that way I reckon...

A tad hypocritical to bolt the begeezus out of any piece of rock that you could find (google earth FFS)
and then move interstate (TG) and tell any body who is putting up new routes not to bolt anything.
Don't you think nell?


muki

24-Nov-2008
1:49:49 PM

On 24/11/2008 The good Dr wrote:
>PS the grade does not reflect the runout nature of the route
Good one Mark will look forward to checking it out.


tnd

24-Nov-2008
2:15:51 PM

On 24/11/2008 The good Dr wrote:
>PS the grade does not reflect the runout nature of the route

But under the Ewbank system it should.


dougal

24-Nov-2008
2:27:28 PM

>
>A tad hypocritical to bolt the begeezus out of any piece of rock that
>you could find (google earth FFS)
>and then move interstate (TG) and tell any body who is putting up new
>routes not to bolt anything.
>Don't you think nell?

you forgot 'steelin our jobs and our wimmin folk.'


billk

24-Nov-2008
2:52:28 PM

On 24/11/2008 The good Dr wrote:
>PS the grade does not reflect the runout nature of the route

Maybe it is time to resurrect debate about R and X grades.


tnd

24-Nov-2008
3:19:53 PM

I think the R/X idea is good, as over the years the Ewbank system has been stuffed by gradings like the above.


nmonteith

24-Nov-2008
3:25:09 PM

On 24/11/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>A tad hypocritical to bolt the begeezus out of any piece of rock that
>you could find (google earth FFS)
>and then move interstate (TG) and tell any body who is putting up new
>routes not to bolt anything.
>Don't you think nell?

f--- ME! What is your problem mate??? If you have some sort of deep seated issue EMAIL me or RING me about it. Why you feel the need to keep bringing up the same rant every time amazes me.

Well done on the new route Mark. I was told by my forefathers that they would like to keep that particular cliff bolt free, a nice idea in my opinion - thus the reason for my post. I've proposed that very concept at the Mt Rosea and The Fortress over the last few years but usually got shot down in flames.


The good Dr

24-Nov-2008
4:08:06 PM

On 24/11/2008 tnd wrote:
>I think the R/X idea is good, as over the years the Ewbank system has been
>stuffed by gradings like the above.

I have applied the Ewbank system (after Lindorfization) ;)

I believe that the route description leaves no doubt about the nature of the protection on the route.

cath

24-Nov-2008
4:49:36 PM

On 24/11/2008 nmonteith wrote:
I thought this was a great example of a trad only area far from the crowds. It would be good to keep it that way I reckon...

>On 24/11/2008 bomber pro wrote:
and tell any body who is putting up new routes not to bolt anything.

Did I miss a post? Where did Neil write that ANY BODY putting up new routes should NOT BOLT ANYTHING?? Neil was making a reasonable comment, not a black and white rant like you seem to be specialising in....


ajfclark

24-Nov-2008
5:01:30 PM

On 24/11/2008 cath wrote:
>Did I miss a post? Where did Neil write that ANY BODY putting up new routes should NOT BOLT ANYTHING??

Only thing I can think of is in the Ravine thread where he asked people to stop bolting there while the issues with farmers and others were sorted out (here and here).

24-Nov-2008
5:51:46 PM

On 24/11/2008 The good Dr wrote:
>On 24/11/2008 tnd wrote:
>>I think the R/X idea is good, as over the years the Ewbank system has
>been
>>stuffed by gradings like the above.
>
>I have applied the Ewbank system (after Lindorfization) ;)
>
>I believe that the route description leaves no doubt about the nature
>of the protection on the route.

The last line shows that the Ewbank grading system has been correctly applied in this case

Here is a quote from EWBANK'S Blue Mountains guide about his grading system:
Grading takes the following into consideration. Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors. As these are more or less all related to each other, I have rejected the idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e. one for exposure, one for technical difficulty, one for protection etc. Instead the climb is given its one general grading, and if any of the other factors is outstanding, this is stated verbally in the short introduction to that climb, e.g. 'Freds Frolic’ 17. 302’-6” A fine climb, marred by poor rock at (crux) and poor protection on 4th pitch. etc, etc.

And it would be good if Kevin could remember this as well, he probably does I guess. It just seems to him that 10-15m above your last bit of gear is NOT run-out - while the rest of us disagree.

PS How do you apply italics or bold to replies?

MJH

24-Nov-2008
5:59:53 PM

I agree with that Mark, and well done.

You'll get more satisfaction putting up a tough trad route anyday.

On the subject of bolts does anybody know anything about a couple of new ring bolted routes at Goldirocks, up past Huff and Puff and near Butt Medler?


nmonteith

24-Nov-2008
6:18:27 PM

On 24/11/2008 MJH wrote:
>On the subject of bolts does anybody know anything about a couple of new
>ring bolted routes at Goldirocks, up past Huff and Puff and near Butt Medler?

See this topic
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=6866&Replies=1

There are 35 messages in this topic.