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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range Red Rocks (General) [ Red Rocks Guide | Images ] 

Red Rocks, Grampians updates

12:25:03 PM
There has been a few more bits of recent develpment at Red Rocks...

There is a new (closed) project that splits left from Fat Fingered Freak after its 1st bolt.

Fat Fingered Freak (23) now has an addiitonal bolt up high (4 bolts in total). This helps protect
the fiddly thin wires section that people had problems with (trad gear ripped form this crack on several
people). This route can be done as a sport route (a little bold) or a few medium wires helps to quell the
5m runout at the end.

One Ring To Bind Them (23) is now an excellent sport route with the addition of two extra u-
bolts and a lower-off anchor. No more do people have to trust shallow wires behind those hollow
flakes. It is still recommended that you stick clip the first bolt with a screw-gate - and take care getting
to the second bolt.

And some more new routes...

A Bolt Too Far 10m 22 [sport]
A rising pumpy traverse line which doesn’t quite go tot the top of the cliff (yet). Starts 5m right of
Static Ticking Rampage at rounded aręte in shady cave. Stick-clip first bolt to protect balancy start.
Monkey, huff and puff along break which keeps getting steeper and more strenous to lower-off fourth
u-bolt bolt (5th bolt above is a closed project). Stays dry in all weather. FFA Adam Demmert, Neil
Monteith & Catherine de vaus 21.5.2006

Adam on the FFA of A Bolt Too Far (22)

* Struck Twice 17m 24 [sport]
Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face of northern pillar about 10m right of Static Ticking
Rampage. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt
by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!)
Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring
lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert 14.5.2006
12:50:25 PM
On 15/03/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>On a disapointing note I found two piles of human shit/paper at Red Rocks
>in plain few. One was directly underneath Vertabrae and the other was on
>the track up to Fat Fingered Freak. There was no attempt to bury the shit.
>Very ugly!

Come on people! You can get a lightweight plastic shovel for like $5 (or was it $2?) at Rays Tent City. Leave the shovel permanently in your climbing kit and help reduce this yukiness.

On a separate note, some pig did the same thing at Burnley. Whoever it was should know our staff now clocks in at over 130 people and they're all hopping mad. You better keep what you did quiet coz I'd hate to think what our staff would do to you!

10:53:34 PM
A few updates...

Verterbrae now has an additional bolt at the top making this route into a full sport route (4 bolts). There is now a new variant to this route...

The Backbone 11m 23/24 (sport)
Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off. Neil Monteith 12.11.2006

8:02:54 AM
On 15/03/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>On a disapointing note I found two piles of human shit/paper at Red Rocks
>in plain few.

How come that didn't get moderated? I'm allowed to say shit but not c--ktail?

8:16:54 AM
On 13/11/2006 Climboholic wrote:
>>On a disapointing note I found two piles of human shit/paper at Red Rocks
>>in plain few.
>How come that didn't get moderated? I'm allowed to say shit but not c--ktail?

f---ed if I know.

Aparrently shit and piss are fine.
c--k is not, but dick is.
c--t is not, but twat is.

so there you go.

5:43:34 PM
I have updated the RED ROCKS climbing guide. The area now has 52 routes (many of dubious quality
i'm afraid to say). The new guide resides on the ACA website and can be updated easily. Please let me
know if I am missing any routes! I will be adding a few more photo topos in the next days...

Guide is here.

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There are 26 messages in this topic.


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