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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Mackey's Lookout (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Finding Noblesse Oblige
surfinclimb
9/11/2008
5:11:14 PM
I think this one will go to Mike Law but if anyone else can pinpoint it or supply a photo that would be sweet. Im looking for the start of and route description of Noblesse Oblige.
I know that this info is probably already in the Chockstone archive but I'm fairly computer retarded and cant find it so any info or links would be sweet.
Thanks in advance.

climbau
9/11/2008
5:17:17 PM
Try this TR thread.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9/11/2008
5:34:07 PM
Just past the 12th corner* after crossing Eurobin Ck bridge, on the LHS going uphill is the large white(ish) rock/boulder that is the start of the access gully (easier if the rib on the right of it is taken)...

The climb is a bit wet at the moment...
Looked at it last weekend (was iffyish-wet then), and this was before the couple of inches of rain we had yesterday up there.





(*Caveat: Corners as defined by a motorbike moving at reasonable speed; not a tourist walking around vague curving roadside ...heh, heh, heh.)
fish boy
9/11/2008
7:16:43 PM
Did this a few weekends ago...walked down, climbed out and was quite epic. It took 4 or so hours to get down there (we had total newbies) and half to get out...I pretty much lost the route I assume after half way because ther were no belays or runners.....the first4-5 pitches were pretty though!
WM
9/11/2008
10:14:05 PM
ACA: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=1202
mikl law
10/11/2008
9:06:41 AM
I did it 2 week ago with Ness, park at base and walk up rib about 50m R of the gully for about 250m, traverse L into gully and soo up easy (but steep!) slabs fro another 80m until you're on the buttress on the right edge,

We climbed it and as it was midweek and there was no traffic, we ran back down the "Great Walk" down to the road again, and then down the road. 2 hours 11 minutes round trip, but you can normally get a lift down.
surfinclimb
10/11/2008
9:05:18 PM
Thanks for all those links and the personal reports. I'm heading up there Tuesday for a few days with friends and its hopefully going to make a nice morning with the arvo spent at Mackeys. Cheers.
gfdonc
10/11/2008
10:10:40 PM
Following those slabs up is the way to go. We bashed up the hill for a while, hard work, before bailing across with difficulty. Beginners might wish for a rope, though.
mikl law
11/11/2008
8:20:23 AM
On 9/11/2008 fish boy wrote:
I pretty much lost the route I assume after half way because
>ther were no belays or runners.....the first4-5 pitches were pretty though!

Thye 4th belay is off to the right 6m, by a bollard, back left to the streak for the next pitch THEn, the route traverse diagonally right (1.30 o'clock direction) to the next buttrss and water streak. Up thius for another pitch THEN the route goes diagonally right (1 o'clock direrection) to another BB and then a long diagonal scramble.

It could do with another bolt on the top belays,a nd maybe another BR to show the way on the top pitches.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28/12/2008
5:40:49 PM
Link to description & topo.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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