FREIGHT FREE in Australia
Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
I climbed Chicken Hearted this weekend - was quite vegetated and occasionally crumbly, with a big loose block about halfway - don't think it gets a lot of traffic. Was quite happy to have the bolts, also happy that I dragged my rack up it, as I placed a couple of cams and slung a horn in between the fairly well spaced bolts. Was quite thought provoking, very old school grading...must have been a real adventure in 1966 before the bolts and with sandshoes. I also dragged a 2nd rope up it given the route description was 40m - the ringbolts were at 30m and equipped with lockers, so no problem getting down with a single 60m.
I enjoyed the climb, as I had to be quite slow and thoughtful to progress (its harder than 13), and I was able to protect it well with bolts and natural gear. The rock was a little iffy (small crumbling bits, and a big loose block). The rap station at the top was great and much appreciated, as the climb really should end there rather than continuing up the grassy gully above. I'm sure you could use the rap station for other climbs too.
But we did this as the first multi-starred climb along the cliffs - if I'd discovered the much better climbing further along at that stage I probably wouldn't have bothered. I really enjoyed SSCC1 (and was happy to have the new bolts there) and the new bolts on SSCC3 make it sane (if well beyond my abilities - I tried and didn't have a clue. Had fun on Hope and Charity too - but the latter really needs lower-offs, the traverse across to the chains on Faith is sketchy and detracts from the climb. Someone has left a lower-off biner on a '60's bolt in the gully above, but I wasn't game to use it.
I'm going up again tomorrow, will probably try your retro'ed Cafe Racer amongst others.
I did what i assumed to be Chicken Hearted a few weeks ago. I climbed up and left of where the 'ch' is painted. The route stayed right of the crack/chimmy climb Cider. It was protected by bolts and gear and was about grade 13. When I got to the roof bit I thought it looked a bit unlikely for the grade and went left on a well worn path and belayed on a good ledge. We then went up the corner for a little bit behind the ledge then traversed off right to the rap anchor. I think this might be the start of pitch 2 of Cider. I'd climbed the line above the painted ch previously thinking it was Chicken Hearted but after finding it tough for 13 concluded it was the route Merlot Madness.