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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
large bit of gear on P3 of Watchtower Crack

westie
16/07/2008
12:29:58 PM

.... not very intrepid I know but what is the piece of gear required?

any (helpful) advice?

My partner and I have OK racks but wanna be sure we have something for it.
kieranl
16/07/2008
12:48:24 PM
#4 Camalot I think is the one.

muki
16/07/2008
12:53:34 PM
But if you run that bit out, you won't even need the #4
kieranl
16/07/2008
1:02:31 PM
I think the idea here is to avoid the runout if possible. Quite sensible IMO.
I still remember the shudder I felt donkeys years ago as my 11 Hex fell out of the crack below me and I barely made it to the belay.
hero
16/07/2008
1:17:06 PM
I have a new policy. If the gear's no good, I close my eyes for a couple of minutes and some f#cker usually whacks a bolt in it, and chains at the top and half way down. It is a magical mountain but someone should lay some bait for the fairies.

tnd
16/07/2008
2:46:01 PM
#5 Camalot. You can shuffle it up with you if you want, or even place two if you have them.
gfdonc
16/07/2008
3:34:35 PM
#5 Friend is my chosen companion on this route, but I seem to recall last time I did it that I might have got away without it, given I also had a #11 hex and #4 friend.
rolsen1
16/07/2008
5:11:06 PM
I placed a 4 camalot after the bolt and below the anchors I don't think it was big enough to go anywhere in the crack think you have to find somewhere where the crack narrows - anything just a bit smaller wouldn't go.

Not sure if a 4 camalot would go in below the bolt on the 4th pitch or not as I went up and clipped the bolt to use as part of the belay. As others have said its pretty safe with just the bolts.
maxdacat
16/07/2008
6:47:52 PM
the biggest piece on my rack was a 3.5 friend....i didn't feel like i was particularly running things out on any of the pitches.

gordoste
16/07/2008
8:31:13 PM
yeah but you're CRRRAAAAZZZYYYY!!!!!

westie
17/07/2008
10:50:02 AM
On 16/07/2008 gordoste wrote:
>yeah but you're CRRRAAAAZZZYYYY!!!!!

As am I... but as I'm 31 I now have a contigency option in mind at times :) #5 camalot it shall be. Ben you reading this? I'll spring for a plastic hex to cover a #4 cam. You can spend on the BD. :)

once again I'm amazed at how much people think about their climbing when they aren't (climbing).

Cheers.

ado_m
17/07/2008
11:17:39 AM
If you've got enough gear and 60 metre ropes, string pitches 3 and 4 together. Otherwise, moving off the 3rd belay is not nice, I'm not sure even a #5 is big enough to protect the 3 or so metres off the belay before you hit a big bolt....
patto
17/07/2008
11:19:54 AM
On 16/07/2008 maxdacat wrote:
>the biggest piece on my rack was a 3.5 friend....i didn't feel like i was
>particularly running things out on any of the pitches.

Similar here. The larger pieces I had was a 3 friend and a 3.5 Camalot. I didn't feel that it was too runout. Though without that 3.5 Camalot then things might have been different.

At the time my limit on trad was 17. I psyced myself up for the Watchtower Crack ascent and found it alot easier than I expected. If I did it again I wouldn't bother with a 4 or 5.
fish boy
17/07/2008
12:28:50 PM
2 pitch sport route....solo first pitch, next pitch clip two carrots and fixed wire on way to 3 pegs, belay, cnext pitch clip bolt a few metres up and then it is over. Belay by sitting behnd a rock at the top. Gear: 3 draws, one locker.

skink
17/07/2008
12:59:54 PM
On 17/07/2008 fish boy wrote:
>2 pitch sport route....solo first pitch, next pitch clip two carrots and
>fixed wire on way to 3 pegs, belay, cnext pitch clip bolt a few metres
>up and then it is over. Belay by sitting behnd a rock at the top. Gear:
>3 draws, one locker.

Watching an elitist prick trying to clip the 3 pegs but realising he used all his gear already: priceless.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/07/2008
1:11:44 PM
On 17/07/2008 fish boy wrote:
>2 pitch sport route....solo first pitch, next pitch clip two carrots and
>fixed wire on way to 3 pegs, belay, cnext pitch clip bolt a few metres
>up and then it is over. Belay by sitting behnd a rock at the top. Gear:
>3 draws, one locker.
&
andesite replied:
>Watching an elitist prick trying to clip the 3 pegs but realising he used
>all his gear already: priceless.

LOL.
Well picked up andesite.
It certainly conjures up an interesting mental image!

EJ
17/07/2008
1:20:52 PM
On 17/07/2008 ado_m wrote:
>If you've got enough gear and 60 metre ropes, string pitches 3 and 4 together.
> Otherwise, moving off the 3rd belay is not nice, I'm not sure even a #5
>is big enough to protect the 3 or so metres off the belay before you hit
>a big bolt....

Yeah I agree, the few meters off this ledge is a bit dicey, even with a good belay. Last time I did it, I continued past the belay and clipped the bolt, then downclimbed back to the ledge. This gives you a good bit of fixed gear for the belay and also minimises the chances of a factor 2 fall as you move up to the bolt.
gfdonc
17/07/2008
2:01:42 PM
On 17/07/2008 andesite wrote:
>Watching an elitist prick trying to clip the 3 pegs but realising he used
>all his gear already: priceless.

ROTFL .. this gets my vote for the Posting of The Year.
prb
17/07/2008
3:16:26 PM
Clipping the bolt on p4 then climbing back to the ledge isn't a bad idea, but I'd avoid running p3/4 together
if you don't need to. You'll struggle to hear each other, particularly if there's a breeze. And seconds have
been known to have minor epics on p3; it helps if the leader is up at the p3 belay. I think 1, 2/3 and 4 is
the best 3-pitch strategy if you have the gear and the inclination.

harold
17/07/2008
3:37:38 PM
My purple poly hex is just big enough turned sideways on pitch 3 between the bolt and the belay. And yes, it can be almost impossible to hear each other when topping out due to the overhang on pitch 4.

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There are 30 messages in this topic.

 

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