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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
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Author
Stench chipped

Chuck Norris
28/06/2008
8:29:09 PM
A friend told me recently that he thought that one of the holds in the crux section of "the Stench before
the storm" had been enhanced recently (ie the upper part of a slot chipped out to make it easier for fat
fingers and also to crimp). Can any crow-eaters either confirm or deny this.

Hopefully I'll be set straight...but if it is true $%6!! WTF! I can't believe that anyone no matter how
depraved could take a chisel to what is possibly the only piece of half decent stone in morialta.




cantcrimp
29/06/2008
11:27:32 AM
Yes it looks like the stench has been chipped. I remember the hold being smaller, harder to get the fingers into it. Now there is no 'lip' above the hold so it appears to be easier to get fat fingers into.

I haven't had a good look at it but will let you know what the story is next time I go over there.

And in regards to morialta's good rock and best routes they took the tools to muesli wall too... give me a call if you want the low down.

According to reports the retro chipper decided to enhance the hold due to the quality of climbers in 'deliade being so low. As there are so few good climbers round these parts we need a few more easier routes for the masses to top rope.

later

c


Chuck Norris
29/06/2008
2:40:53 PM
I'm at a loss for words...what a bunch of braindead pricks.

cantcrimp
29/06/2008
8:08:02 PM
yep
prb
29/06/2008
11:31:20 PM
We think it's one braindead prick responsible for chipping Stench and GC, thankfully not a bunch. I've checked his work on Stench...yep, the roof of the crux crimp has disappeared. The climb must have been just a little too tough for him in its original state. It's sad when good climbs that have been established for 20 years are getting chipped by a gutless wonder.

phil_nev
30/06/2008
9:37:50 AM
Time for a name & shame!!

cantcrimp
30/06/2008
10:31:14 AM
We would have to know who did it first. Some names have been mentioned but with absolutely no evidence so I don't think this is the place to speculate who did it. Unless someone knows something I don't? Fell free to own up. (Yeah right)
devlin66
30/06/2008
10:39:04 AM
Definitely name and shame ONCE the correct person has been identified and confirmed beyond any shadow of a doubt.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30/06/2008
10:41:04 AM
On 29/06/2008 cantcrimp wrote:
>According to reports the retro chipper decided to enhance the hold due
>to the quality of climbers in 'deliade being so low. As there are so few
>good climbers round these parts we need a few more easier routes for the
>masses to top rope.

Poor form.

Imo there is no excuse for 'chipping' (unless it is a blank wall in a quarry!), and even less for 'retro chipping', especially on natural lines, and infinitely so for established climbs that have a history of ascents.

phil_nev
30/06/2008
10:48:41 AM
Was it that dodgy boardlord? ;)

cantcrimp
30/06/2008
10:51:24 AM
As he can no longer climb anything harder than 25 mmm....
Ronny
30/06/2008
1:11:22 PM
If it was boardlord he would have just bolted on an MDF sloper...

cantcrimp
30/06/2008
2:00:34 PM
he did that on the duck..

Chuck Norris
30/06/2008
6:35:39 PM
In the past I've been disappointed when certain routes established in good style have been retrobolted,
but at the end of the day I could shrug my shoulders and get on with life. However, chipping 20+ year
old established lines that have had 100's of ascents --- I am completely dumbfounded by this. Also a
little surprised that more wasn't made of it when it happened.

Morialta has so few good climbs and so little good rock I cannot believe someone could do that to the
best climbs on the best rock. And in the case of the Stench this F'UCKWIT has ruined the point of
interest of the whole f'ucking climb.

i.e. There WERE two standard ways of doing the crux...one suited to static climbers and the other
suited to dynamic climbers...but the bottom line WAS that you WOULD get to a point where you had to
choose which style you preferred....and quickly...

Nowadays though, thanks to our peabrained friend you can do the crux by grabbing a good edge and
cranking through to the next good edge...sounds like the type of climb worth going to a gym for!

THANKS F'UCKWIT

muki
30/06/2008
9:32:42 PM
When you find out who it was, you could always chisel their fingers off to the second knuckle!
that would be the ultimate equaliser !!!

sliamese
30/06/2008
10:21:05 PM
>sounds like the type of climb
>worth going to a gym for!


maybe someone straight out of a gym chipped it?? in think bomber should be the one to find them and deal justice...

evanbb
1/07/2008
7:21:12 AM
On 30/06/2008 stugang wrote:

>....THANKS F'UCKWIT

And I totally agree. I'm outraged, but I don't think that whingeing on a forum is going to help. The sort of person who chips a route probably can't read, and so won't get the message. We need shiny posters in climbing gyms to get the message across. Something with lots of fashionable guys standing around together, next to a route with a big number written on it, like 29 or so to get their attention.

I think it was Aunty Lynn Hill who said something like "we should not have the arrogance to assume that just because we can't climb it now, no-one will be able to climb it in the future. Every time a climb is chipped it takes away a challenge for the people that follow us."
I also don't understand why you would chip at all? Say a route is too hard, but all the other cool kids have done it and you want to be like them. So you chip it to make it easier. Now you're not even climbing the same route, so what's the point? Wankers.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/07/2008
9:26:32 AM
The passion this arouses is not dis-similar (imo) to how I also feel when people retro-bolt bold routes that have a prior history of ascents. The reasons for not doing chipping and retro-bolting are similar...
It is perhaps an unfortunate by-product of newer generations expecting climbing to be an instant gratification thing, rather than a sport to be savoured with all its nuances.
If the alleged excuse given in a higher post is fair dinkum, then not only is it short-sighted but it is also blatantly rude. Kind of like crapping in a public swimming pool...
prb
1/07/2008
11:09:32 AM
On 30/06/08 stugang wrote:
>Also a little surprised that more wasn't made of it when it happened.

The Stench damage was discovered towards the end of last year. It was the main subject of
discussion at a Climbing Club meeting or two. Chippers usually don't admit to it and are hard to catch
in the act but there was strong circumstantial evidence pointing to one suspect, surprisingly not a
newbie who mightn't know better but someone active since the 70s. His true motives would only be
known to him but you would have to think bringing the climbs down a grade or two to his level was part
of it. Some people just feel they need to leave their mark.

Without absolute proof we can't name names and the matter was best handled quietly. A message
describing the damage and explaining why chipping is criminal was sent out on the CCSA email list
(ie. to several hundred people). Many Adelaide climbers are now aware of the problem and will
hopefully be keeping their eyes and ears open. I know I will be.
Bob Saki
1/07/2008
12:33:39 PM
This may seem outlandish and perhaps may do further damage but is it possible to glue in rock or re-chip the said route to restore some of the difficulty?


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