Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
Can anyone tell me anything about the two climbs on the left hand arete of the block on the left hand of the courtyard as you walk in to the main section of Dog Rocks?. One starts on the front of the arete on a fallen log (quite old) and has three fixed hangers - about a 12m climb? Around the other side of the arete are two carrots on a steep crimpy face - now missing about 2 kilos of rock pulled off the wafer thin flakes during climbing. Its about a 10m climb - thoroughly dirty, painful and dangerous. Been put up since the last guide book I guess.
Heroin Is So Passe 6m 19 [sport]
Starts 10m right of Elsie. Climb short slab past one high FH.Kent Paterson, Neil Monteith, Ti Hoang 6.11.2005
Up The Bracket 8m 23 [sport]
The right aręte of the Little Bo Peep block. Stickclip first FH. Start from boulder on the right side of the arete and launch into the bouldery starting moves via flake to end up on the slabby left side. Continue hugging the arete past two more FHs. Descent via LBP's anchor. Kent Paterson, Neil Monteith 6.11.2005
* Ebb And Flow 8m 20 [sport]
An obvious problem that doesnąt appear to have been recorded previously. Rounded aręte 5m left of McDogs with three FHs. Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Ti Hoang 6.11.2005
Beta: Semantics 18m 18+. more like 20. Rumours 15m 25. 24 is a generous grade. It's not 24. Painless 10m 20. I thought it was 18 in the older guide. I don't believe it's 20. Scottish Reign 24. Now has a hanger.
Lots of feedback from Ben Wright:
p.177 Access: Melways map is now 609 (at least in my Melways). The Koala Sanctuary seems no longer to exist, and is not signposted from the Calder Highway. The others signs are still there though, and there is a separate "Major Mitchell Trail" one as well. The turning is between the 114 and 115 km roadside makers (114.7km).
paragraph 4, I know some who have been misdirected by "Dog Rock Saddle is signposted and is 6.4km north along the road". Dog Rock Saddle is signposted and is 3.1km north along the road (6.4km from point 1).
p.179 the topo. It's a very good topo. Chimney Crack should be The Kennel. unnamed crack is Dick McGinty (McDogs also starts up the same crack).
p.180 "and has two, as yet unexplained bolts on the short slab behind it". Ben suggests the following description:
Courtyard Arete 10m 15
Bounce onto slab, step up, then it eases. 2BR and sling the branch, scramble back to belay on chains above Modern Logic. FADU.
McDogs, Dick McGinty, and Old Habits all start up the same crack before branching out.
Ecosse 14, and RHV 10 - I'd swap the grades round, and drop them! Ecosse 9, Ecosse RHV 13, and that may be generous (but you do have to worry that the whole block looks like it will fall on you). Also, of the group, Ecosse is the "straightest up" line, with Culloden (and Elsie) coming in to join it.
Jewellery, Chimney Corner, The Kennel; getting down is harder than the climbs! (well maybe one of them), suggest: Descent is by a tricky little downclimb towards the Bouldering Slab, or you can use the chain above Painless to belay and abseil down it instead.
Chimney Corner 10, The Kennel 7 - I'd swap these grades round too, but it's a bit hard to be sure.
Chimney Corner "The corner at the back of the deep chimney (really?)". Yes really, it's ok (if you like that sort of thing :-).
Mobile Phone - No star from me.
Mobile Phone Variant 12 - No, if someone just managed Rover this isn't what they should do next. 14/15? Wear gloves.
Semantics 20 (18) - Just to keep the discussion going, the Tim and Tom Guide had it starting in the chimney (no pro for quite a way?) then finishing as for Modern Logic (left of roof, 2FH). That might have been 18. Up the chimney and left to the crack might be 18 too. But with the Modern Logic start it's at least 20... Where's the crux on Modern Logic?
Mo Money "right at the first fixed hanger on Semantics" - it's now the first fixed hanger on Modern Logic...
Painless 18/20 - I'd give it 20 (maybe it's a height thing?).
Fleece 13 - That grade's for the middle of the slab, easier further left.
Waiting For Sam 15 - I'd say 16. Anyway it's harder than My Black Sheep (might be the height thing again, those staples are too far round the corner for comfort).
On 25/03/2008 dalai wrote:
>From the vcc new routes section. Possibly a couple of the following?
Cheers Dalai - looks like first one was ebb and flow. They often count the doddle at the top in granite routes so 8m of actual climbing sounds about right. Still not sure about the other one. Not a bad spot (first climb there) but some of the shortest climbs I've done. Painless is a ripper. Will check out Wabitt Wocks next time.
the climb with the two carrots would have been 'Maldon Terrier' if i'd managed to round up someone to lead it with. I top roped, then bolted it last year, but didn't get around to leading it.
I thought it was a nice crimpy little number, i weigh 80 odd kilos and cleaned any really loose stuff off it. nothing popped off when i toproped it.
What grade would you put on it?
You can even give it a name if you like.