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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Eastern Outcrops (General) [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Recent bolting of Back Wall of Eastern Outcrops

westie
11/03/2008
9:55:35 AM
Morning....

Anyone know anything about the shiny new hangers on the back wall of the Camel's Hump (Eastern Outcrop)? SCV? VCC? Certainly makes the place a bit safer. Unknown 1 is now a ripper climb with four fat fixed hangers. It seemed about 16/17? anyone else suggest a grade?

dimpet
11/03/2008
10:01:42 AM
Yeah, we saw these a couple of months ago. We didn't try them out but looked nice.
robin
11/03/2008
6:43:14 PM
These were put up some time ago and are included in another thread somewhere. I've drawn up some rough topos to the best of my very limited drawing ability. I did promise to send them into Argus, but never got around to it. Will do it soon, as in this week.

The first unknown line has 4FH's about 2m right of News From Home. We thought this was about 15.

Also it should be noted that News From Home should finish left up crack, not right as stated in the guidebook. I edited that section of the guide so I take responsibility for (probable) mistake.

The second unknown route is another couple of meters right and just left of Skippy. This has a bouldery start then eases to about 15/16. We gave that climb about 17 overall.

The third new route is a few meters right of Locris. This has 4FH's + a cam placement up high if required. Thought this was about grade 15.

westie
12/03/2008
9:00:07 AM
cheers for that.

Would have said Unknown 1 is a 16 when you look at other grades in this section of the Camel's Hump. It is a tad harder than Russell 1 & 2 and also Space Jugging (all 15s). I doubt Unknown 2 is a 17. Me and a few others clambered all over that section doing Skippy and there is nothing I remember really challenging about it. Its all subjective though. Bolts in this section were a welcome addition. Well done whoever.
robin
12/03/2008
8:04:06 PM
Yeah the grading is subjective.

The grades I gave were consensis for a group of climbers with different lead climbing abilities. We had different views on what the grades should be.

Re: climb 2; from memory it is a thin, hard move if you start directly under the bolt, probably harder than 17. If you start slightly right the holds are much better.

Like you say the grading is irrelevant really, the climbs are quite good.

Rupert
12/03/2008
11:24:49 PM
There have been a number of discussions about these bolts going back about two years. Have a look at the bottom of This Page too. We tried to sort out a consensus then too :)
dalai
13/03/2008
11:51:39 AM
Going through Rupert's linked topic from a while back - Neil, did the chain get added to the FH's above Skippy for a rap anchor?

westie
13/03/2008
12:03:15 PM
On 13/03/2008 dalai wrote:
>Going through Rupert's linked topic from a while back - Neil, did the chain
>get added to the FH's above Skippy for a rap anchor?

There are two fixed hangars you could rap off but you can't pull your rope through so they're pointless.

nmonteith
13/03/2008
12:06:39 PM
No - this has reminded me! I have the chain, so i may even go up there in the next few days and fix it.

westie
13/03/2008
1:17:34 PM
On 12/03/2008 Rupert wrote:
>There have been a number of discussions about these bolts going back about
>two years. Have a look at the bottom of ...
We tried to sort out a consensus then too :)

Unknown 1 a 13? getouttatown! Neil and I climb pretty different grades and we both said 20m 16 (I hadn't seen his prior comment when I posted on this thread). Does two people make a consensus? perhaps.
dalai
13/03/2008
1:22:39 PM
On 13/03/2008 westie wrote:

>There are two fixed hangars you could rap off but you can't pull your
>rope through so they're pointless.

Neil bought some chain to add to the hangers so that you will be able to rap off this anchor...

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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