Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
To close this off on a more serious note - I got in contact with Nick Hanc--k and was told there was a
fair bit of poetic license in his description of the 'loose block'. Make up your own mind if you want to do
the route, but i honestly don't think there is anything to worry about (for the next millennia at least...)
Anyway, all this got me thinking and I now reckon that if you want to do the crux bit (the wall/crack just
beneath the main roof) then you are better off doing it starting higher up kneedeep chimney and doing the
whole climb in two pitches (plus a short scramble) as per the FA. The first pitch as described in the guide
is nice on its own but just delays the getting to the spicey bit.
I should add, for lovers of big Moonarie chimneys, that Kneedeep (14) is a lot of fun though rarely climbed. On the second pitch you chimney up to a roof of giant chockstones and then cave through them to a ledge. It would be an interesting pitch in an earthquake. Had to take my harness off to fit through the final squeeze. The top pitch, escaping a small cave, is also good value. It's a fun, different sort of climb that should get more attention from people who enjoy these grades.