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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All SA (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Jesus Loves Me, the Poofter

Chuck Norris
4/01/2008
9:42:36 PM
Just as he loves all us faggots (of wood)...especially those of us bound by the shackles of sitting a
sleeping baby.

And for those of us he loves, he turns water into jungle-juice and for those of you burdened by stugang
drinking too much of said jungle-juice and referring to himself in the third person he would
like to add something of a more serious nature....

ummm...in the latest rock, the article on Moonarie made a comment on a 20 tonne death block on the
route "Jesus Loves Me, the Poofter".

I am not convinced it exists, and will check it out when i am there in easter this year (after over 10
years)..However, it is an awesome route with quite a unique and powerful cruxy bit that is nowhere
near the alleged loose block. If you scramble up kneedeep chimney to where the arete (bolt) meets a
protruding ledge it is very easy to start the route from here and avoid the (alleged) loose block. The
original FA was done starting from this point in two pitches to the top, and the 10m of climbing below
(where the alleged loose block is) was only added to extend the first pitch into a longer well protected
easy route that one could rap off before the cruxy bit.

cheers
stu

mousey
4/01/2008
9:50:27 PM
havent seen the latest rock yet, any good?

good to hear you're having so much fun mate
btw thanks i found the cams in the esky, glad you got some good use out of em!
simey
4/01/2008
10:08:05 PM
Stugang,
You certainly established some great routes, but I always thought your route names were amongst the worst in Australia.... and that one was right up there.

At least you weren't establishing routes at Arapiles during its golden era.

Chuck Norris
4/01/2008
10:11:08 PM
The rock was the best i've seen in a while....

btw...have you seen this (or one of other articles floating about)?

http://www.law.com/jsp/article.jsp?id=1090180362167

Are you sure those cams you loaned me were black diamond & wild country? And what brand was that
'biner?

mousey
4/01/2008
10:15:51 PM
the biner was an omega pacific & the cams were def. the real deal... the WC was bought off a private seller and the BD#4 was storebought. ive compared the WC to the store bought ones and they check out. also used em a bit now and they work swell

Chuck Norris
4/01/2008
10:47:35 PM
On 4/01/2008 simey wrote:
>Stugang,
>You certainly established some great routes, but I always thought your
>route names were amongst the worst in Australia.... and that one was right
>up there.
>
>At least you weren't establishing routes at Arapiles during its golden
>era.
>

Dear Simey

If thats what you think then i am satisfied....I'm curious now...is that why you didn't put "Three Years
on D-Minor" in your selected guide? - despite it's being a megaclassic!? Or did you not want to explain
the name?....:)

I've said this before, as far as I'm concerned calling a climb a name is stupid apart from the
conversational convenience of being able to distinguish one possible path of ascent over another. And
if I have excelled in the art of making a climb name stupid then I am satisfied to have earned your
disdain.


wallwombat
4/01/2008
10:48:40 PM
Psssst!

I've got some nice Ukrainian units here in this suitcase.

Want to take a look?

I do real good price.

Chuck Norris
4/01/2008
10:51:43 PM
On 4/01/2008 wallwombat wrote:
>
>I do real good price.

yeh but the camskis from loverboy Josh is for free

wallwombat
4/01/2008
11:02:19 PM
Ничего свободно, мой друг.

wallwombat
4/01/2008
11:14:50 PM
I wouldn't part with my Ukrainian cams anyway. I copped too much shit for buying them in the first place. They are now the most precious pieces on my rack.
simey
5/01/2008
9:29:35 AM
Stuart,
Your route is mentioned in the Arapiles Select guide, but only in italics as a variant start. It is a select guide after all.


Chuck Norris
5/01/2008
12:24:35 PM
On 5/01/2008 simey wrote:
>Stuart,
>Your route is mentioned in the Arapiles Select guide, but only in italics
>as a variant start. It is a select guide after all.
>
>

surely two independent moves deserves better than that!

Anyway, you were nasty about my climb names and reminding you of that old joke (that is well past its
useby date) was the best my winesoaked brain could come up with at the time...

simey
5/01/2008
2:25:37 PM
On 5/01/2008 stugang wrote:
>...was the best my winesoaked brain could come up with at the time...

I could almost see your sloshed figure at the keyboard as I read your posts.




Eduardo Slabofvic
5/01/2008
9:29:15 PM
On 5/01/2008 simey wrote:
>Stuart,
>Your route is mentioned in the Arapiles Select guide, but only in italics
>as a variant start. It is a select guide after all.

all the best routes are in italics

tmarsh
5/01/2008
10:38:55 PM
eg...

Born to be Mild...

Eduardo Slabofvic
6/01/2008
10:13:44 AM
Correct
hero
7/01/2008
1:07:29 PM
Perhaps, given Eduardo's fascination with italicised routes, it is time guidebooks came out like music. I suggest iRoutes, where you pay Simey to download only those routes you want. You get the topo to put on your vid ipod and a brief account by the first ascentionist.

Eduardo Slabofvic
7/01/2008
2:12:46 PM
On 7/01/2008 hero wrote:
>Perhaps, given Eduardo's fascination with italicised routes, it is time
>guidebooks came out like music. I suggest iRoutes, where you pay Simey
>to download only those routes you want. You get the topo to put on your
>vid ipod and a brief account by the first ascentionist.

I'ld be getting my downloads from some dodgy Russian site, or "Cragster".
hero
7/01/2008
3:41:58 PM
Perhaps 'linewire'

GravityHound
7/01/2008
4:27:18 PM
On 7/01/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:

>I'ld be getting my downloads from some dodgy Russian site, or "Cragster".

Good to see you and your jokes and back online Ed. keep em coming.....

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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