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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo The Hump & Environs (General) The Hump [ Hump Guide ] 

Author
glossop skins

mousey
2/01/2008
11:53:32 PM
anyone done it?
ive got no interest in trying it whatsoever, i rapped down it this morning and that top pitch looks like something out my worst effing nightmares... but just curious as to whether it actually gets repeated??

JamesMc
3/01/2008
8:06:28 AM
I seconded Glossop Skins Direct years ago (don't know about the top pitch of the main route). The main route was put up in the days before climbers were rich enough to own power drills. This means not a whole lot of bolts. My understanding is that the route was practiced on top rope prior to FA, and locations for the bolts carefully selected to be at the hard moves. The result is that there is a bolt by your side at the very hardest moves, but if you fall off anywhere else, you could go for miles.

Also, the hanger on the top bolt of the direct finish has be damaged by lightning (unless it's been replaced).

There are safer routes at Buffalo than Glossop Skins. It is rarely repeated.

James Mc

Superstu
3/01/2008
8:19:05 AM
I've lead the final pitch of glossip skins (the direct finish, gr 21 in the book i think) and thought it was well bolted and a fun climb. I haven't done the original finish which I think is grade 20 and follows the features a bit more.

Eduardo Slabofvic
3/01/2008
8:30:57 AM
I had a nervous break down on it.

mousey
3/01/2008
9:11:38 AM
i dont know if they had been struck by lightning but there were 3? of HBs homemade (looked quite good) FH's on the last pitch. a solid 10m or so between bolts on lichen covered, quite insecure climbing facing a fall that would remove half of your body in granite-rash.. i would have had a nervous breakdown too!
kieranl
3/01/2008
10:13:25 AM
Mousey, if you didn't like the look of the look of this you should look at its near neighbour Initiation DF.

mousey
3/01/2008
10:19:02 AM
i did, we almost went up it!! it looked like the obvious line from the top of initiation's 3rd pitch but pat was feeling sick so he wanted to escape the slab & go up the crack out right... which ended up being the route anyway. maybe thats been retro'd since you saw it? but there are 2 big shiny U's above the pea-pod crack which make it seem quite doable/safe
WM
3/01/2008
10:33:53 AM
I think the shiny U's are Kevin's new project. Initiation DF is probably still death. don't know where they are relative to each other

has anyone done icing on the cake? looks awesome in the photos.

cruze
3/01/2008
10:34:41 AM
On 3/01/2008 mousey wrote:
>i did, we almost went up it!! it looked like the obvious line from the
>top of initiation's 3rd pitch but pat was feeling sick so he wanted to
>escape the slab & go up the crack out right... which ended up being the
>route anyway. maybe thats been retro'd since you saw it? but there are
>2 big shiny U's above the pea-pod crack which make it seem quite doable/safe

I think that you may be referring to a different climb there Mousey. I thought the U-bolts above the pea-pod groove (to the right of the Initiation traverse) was/is a Lindorff project that he was working with Joe a year ago (while we were climbing Initiation). I think that Initiation DF is further left and breaks out on to the guts of the slab above the 2nd belay of Initiation. I might be wrong.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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