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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Southeast Barbican Rocks (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Barbican Rocks access/descent
gfdonc
30/12/2007
10:45:27 PM
Hi,
Was at Barbican Rocks today (in the heat, but not too bad after 12pm).

Access to the cliff is messy - no real sign of the old track remains, although we did spot two pieces of plastic tape around trees. It's fairly easy to get up and down with the limited undergrowth. It would be worth someone marking a new track to contain the erosion - the soil is very fragile as the groundcover is still marginal after the fires.

More importantly the "rap tree" at the top of "The Lonely Sea" and/or "The Last Grain Race" has been burnt out and is considered too weak to trust your life to. At the moment the only descent appears to be scrambling off. Alternatively there is a pile of poxy slings about 2/3 the way up the last pitch of TLGR (also "The Lonely Race" from the Select Guide) if you want to leave while the party's still going.

This route really needs a set of rap chains on the good ledge about 8m below the tree, perfect stance for it and would work brilliantly when on TLGR/TLR but you'd need to traverse in (?) or scramble down (roped) if climbing other routes to reach this stance.

There's a nice slingable horn about 8m up and right of the tree. Don't touch it. It's part of a large block that isn't attached to the cliff, moves, and, if you tug on it, your last task as a human will be to cuddle it on the way down.

TLR deserves all of its three stars.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/01/2008
3:45:39 PM
>There's a nice slingable horn about 8m up and right of the tree. >Don't touch it. It's part of a large block that isn't attached to the cliff, moves, and, if you tug on it, your last task as a human will be to cuddle it on the way down.

~> surprises me that someone hasn't trundled this before now?
... maybe not if it is a recent effect of fires.

There are 2 messages in this topic.

 

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