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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range Gilham's Crags (General) [ Gilham's Images ] 

Author
Good for a day trip?

GG
5-Apr-2004
4:02:33 PM
Whats the general vibe about this crag?

I onsight up to 17 trad. Is there any good 18's there I could try my luck on?


Rupert
5-Apr-2004
4:27:23 PM
There are some great 19s there.

GG
5-Apr-2004
4:44:05 PM
So, no good 18's?

If not, where is the best place to go?

nmonteith
5-Apr-2004
5:46:49 PM
There is a few good easier routes in the 16-19 - simialr to Arapiles climbs in style. They can be greasy and slippery in hot weather and some have spaced protecion. Generall the rock is superb quality. It certainly is worth a visit. if you run out of routes maybe you can also check out Slander Gully/Curiosety Crag as its in the same area
M
6-Apr-2004
1:49:59 PM
Gilhams is probably not the best place with young kids (if you are taking them). The walls I have climbed on didnt have much shade (sports wall, the wall with hippy chick and and the wall with do you mind if I smoke). The walk in is uphill but not too bad since the fires have cleared the path but before the fires it was a bit of a bush bash.

I think Black Ians rocks is pretty good place for a day. There is quite a big shady cave and most of the climbs start at ground level which makes it a bit safer for kids. (but not as safe as somewhere like summeday valley) There is an excellent 18 crack with holds and jams with good pro and a well protected crux high crux. It gets stars in the guide but I cant remember its name. There is also an really good looking line called suopena at grade 17. I drove to black ians 12 months ago specifially to do this climb but it had a bees nest in it. my memory is that the cliff gets afternoon sun but you should check the guide book.
You can almost drive to the base of the cliff so walking time is negligible.

It also depends where you are staying. Black Ians is about?? 1/2 hour an hour from stapelton but a lot further from melbourne if thats what you mean by a day trip.


GG
6-Apr-2004
2:27:37 PM
Good to meet you at "The Gathering"....Won't be taking the kids...I will be climbing FRIDAY and SATURDAY-Staying at Chinamans Lodge...Was planning to do Gilhams on SAT...

Rich
6-Apr-2004
5:39:43 PM
if you have one gareth, do us all a favour and bring a machete and chop the burnt out branches along the track. they cover you in ash as you are walking, very frustrating... also be fun to chop em ;-)

nmonteith
6-Apr-2004
6:13:26 PM
It was officially not allowed to drive on Water Works track. I have been hassled by the ranger for parking there before... well actually it wasn't me but my GF who was waiting in the car.
James
6-Apr-2004
8:31:23 PM
Neil you say "was" (ie: past tense). Is it allowed now?? I have 'heard' about that gate not being locked & people parking within 20m of the dam at the bottom of Slander Gully.

phil_nev
7-Apr-2004
12:57:53 AM
We were there maybe 3 weeks ago. The first day we headed to slander gully area and walked up from Harrop track, upon walking up hill we were passed by a farmer? in a 4 wheel drive. The next day for gilhams crags, we drove up the waterworks track (I didnt even see a gate) and walked the easy but steep and short walk to gilhams....

Phil

Rich
7-Apr-2004
11:25:59 AM
yeh we drove in from the other end (sthn end) and i didn't even see a gate. if you have a high clearance vehicle (or don't mind leaving your sump behind) you can park right next to the slander gully bath..

nmonteith
7-Apr-2004
11:32:41 AM
All i know is that we got hassled once before about 3 years ago!
M
7-Apr-2004
12:11:43 PM
If you do use the lower track coming in from the south end means that you can mesure the distance from the intersection on your speedo and find the track. I think its about 1 km (check the guide book). The cairn and track are fairly easy to miss. When we were there a few months ago a group coming from the other direction missed the track. Because the fire has opened up the path its probably not worth being hassled by the rangers for the time you save on the waterworks track. Its also better if climbers dont piss of the rangers. If we are less visible and have less impact access is less likely to be a problem. Although in this case using the waterworks track would negate the need for the lower half of the track which would suit everyone. But this is parks victorias call.

Rich
7-Apr-2004
12:43:45 PM
yeh for gilhams it's not really necessary. for slander gully though it makes quite a bit of difference.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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