Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

DMM: Viper Size L (2013 model as shown) Padded Adjustable Harness, 5 Gear Loops Fits: Waist 87-104cm Legs: 55-70cm   $89.00
26% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Central Bundaleer (General) [ Bundaleer Images ] 

Author
The Ogive - Bundaleer

nmonteith
3/10/2007
3:26:15 PM
I'm interested in this route! It looks amazing, but i don't know anyone whos been on it (apart from Simey).
What's the story? Are there sections which rely on the manky fixed gear? I'd be interested in replacing a
few bolts whilst im trying it...

dalai
3/10/2007
3:47:55 PM
Been on it many years ago, just aiding to the lip and back during a downpour. Gear was fine for body weight, would be interesting to rely on some bits for leading though -wooden wedge for one plus very old carrots...
ademmert
3/10/2007
5:18:45 PM
pats done it all on natural gear apparently
he would be good to ask for bata

let me know when your going to get on it i'm supa keen
was just looking at it the other weekend

a

nmonteith
3/10/2007
5:20:41 PM
The start certainly involves bolts! (ie scoopy stuff with no crack)
ademmert
3/10/2007
5:24:07 PM
it's only what i think i heard

do you have a picture of it??


pat
4/10/2007
10:30:03 AM
I'm only a bumbly and did it as a full aid climb a few years ago on a rainy day. Had a great time. It was my first aid. Bolts and wedges were all fine and fun to hang from. Be careful about the rope drag. I almost couldn't get around the lip. Probably would have helped to be a little more fussy extending the runners getting off the ground and up into the roof proper. My second left a small wire behind halfway out the roof, but I evened it up when I found a fairly decent sized nut just sitting loose up on the face, so if its still there, its yours Neil. That and the number 3 camalot. (Heh heh .. did someone yell stampede?)

nmonteith
4/10/2007
10:41:54 AM
I really do love the fact that the route is always shady and always dry! That's a big selling point...
Dave C
4/10/2007
10:47:41 AM
There's a hands-off rest in one of the scoops in the roof. I've got some indifferent pics of HB on it somewhere on my machine at home, I'll post one or two of them tonight if I think of it.

nmonteith
4/10/2007
11:36:32 AM
On 4/10/2007 StuckinLara wrote:
>There's a hands-off rest in one of the scoops in the roof.

I can see a good place for a double knee bar rest halfway out, probably the same area. The start looks
like its got some great steep bridging...

> I've got some
>indifferent pics of HB on it somewhere on my machine at home

That would be aweome to see!
Dave J
4/10/2007
12:23:25 PM

>>There's a hands-off rest in one of the scoops in the roof.
>

most of the route is a no hands rest...its just getting from one no hands rest to the next thats
tricky.....and the fist crack at the end is a bit depending on yoyur pain tolerence.

I think the gear is fine actually...the bolts are mostly for novelty value and there is enough good
natural gear in the right spots that you are unlikely ever to be falling on the bolts.

I was belaying simey in those photos Im pretty sure...Rich and I had just done the route that morning
and we were going to strip it and then Simey decided that not enough photos had been taken so he
went up for a lengthy photo shoot....bless him.

nmonteith
4/10/2007
1:03:15 PM
So, whats the 'crux' Dave? Is is bouldery,fingery - or just sustained?
Dave J
4/10/2007
3:52:57 PM
On 4/10/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>So, whats the 'crux' Dave? Is is bouldery,fingery - or just sustained?


after the kneebar shuffle section there is a bit where one of the sides of the crack is higher than the
other and youre doing a kind of bunched traverse across that to gain the fist crack (I think there are a
couple of nice handjams before the crack gets fist sized where you can regain your composure)...I
think its the move where you take your last knee out of the kneebar and reach up to get the crack as
an undercling .


I think its best to take youre time of the route and take advantage of all of the rests...

nmonteith
4/10/2007
3:59:24 PM
Do I need to bother with wires - or do i just bring a mamoth rack of cams?
Dave J
4/10/2007
4:50:00 PM
On 4/10/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>Do I need to bother with wires - or do i just bring a mamoth rack of cams?

Definitely wires...I think there are good wires to protect the start...I dont think you use any really big
cams either...you dont want to fill up the kneebar section for example or you wouldnt be able to climb it

fist size is as big as you need (Im pretty sure abouut this but it was a long time ago)

nmonteith
4/10/2007
5:23:35 PM
Thanks Dave. I'm excited!
Dave J
5/10/2007
10:36:07 AM
Good luck.


its a great route....gets my vote for best 28 in the gramps that isnt on taipan.

pat
5/10/2007
12:40:13 PM
I agree with the wires and it also took lots of small cams. I used a couple of bigger cams out near the lip to turn it.

phil_nev
5/10/2007
1:13:46 PM
On 5/10/2007 Dave J wrote:
>Good luck.
>
>
>its a great route....gets my vote for best 28 in the gramps that isnt
>on taipan.

While on the topic of budaleer 28's... Dave, you got any beta for the crux on angular (the 28 part), seems to be jugs from the 27 anchors.... the 2 really hard moves... then jugs again... Had me completley stumped though!
Dave J
5/10/2007
2:06:00 PM

>While on the topic of budaleer 28's... Dave, you got any beta for the
>crux on angular (the 28 part), seems to be jugs from the 27 anchors....
>the 2 really hard moves... then jugs again... Had me completley stumped
>though!

I dont really remember....but I think it was really key to get good toe hooks in the big underclingy
pockets...the crux was holding a slopey hold near the lip and the toe hooks made that a much more
reasonable proposition.

phil_nev
5/10/2007
2:24:46 PM
cheers, i was thinking something like that... its a bit of a shame its not very sustained after the initial chain.

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints