Crag & Route Beta

Author	New routes beside Mantis
WM 19-Apr-2004 9:49:15 AM	Howdy All, Did 2 routes on Fang buttress on Saturday which I think are new. Just wanted to confirm that the "contrived variant" to Mantis (Shepherd guide p100) takes the yellow line shown in the photo at: http://www.geocities.com/thomasandlorraine/Willsnewroute2.jpg Red line: Mantis Yellow line: the variant (I think) Blue: tentative new route Preying 37m 18 Green: probable new route Mandible * 41m 19 Comments? thanks, Will
Rupert 19-Apr-2004 11:26:28 AM	the link is not working at the moment.
dalai 19-Apr-2004 11:29:20 AM	I assume the possible FA Mandible is the Green Line as there is only one red line?
gfdonc 19-Apr-2004 12:22:50 PM	Nope, not working for me at the moment.
WM 19-Apr-2004 12:41:44 PM	OK I put it on chockstone - obviously geocities is struggling. Red line: Mantis Yellow line: the variant (I think) Blue: tentative new route Preying 37m 18 Green: probable new route Mandible * 41m 19 You can view this image at full size by right clicking it, "save as" then viewing it on your own PC. If you need more context the link in the first post above will/should still take you to a higher resolution and wider angle image showing Strolling (23) on the left
kieranl 23-May-2004 10:47:16 PM	The line shown for Preying is where I thought the Mantis variant went. Would probably have to locate the original description to sort this out as it's edited down to nothing in the guide. I'm not dogmatic about this but I thought the variant was a bit more significant than the line shown in the diagram. Not a big deal, it'sstill a good-looking climb.
WM 28-Mar-2005 10:26:29 AM	Evidently I am quite the trend setter these days with much attention having been paid to Strolling buttress as the groupies rush for the scraps left behind after the two plums (see above). One of these scraps is a 29-ish direct start to Mandible which goes up past the little birdshit patch to join the left end of the green traverse - pink line in the photo below. The problem is the evil bolters have retro-ed Mandible by putting rap chains into it! So, has anyone got a bolt-remover I can borrow? And if anyone catches the naughty boy(s) in action please feel free to tar and feather them on my behalf.
adski 28-Mar-2005 10:53:04 AM	you're quite the funny man Will. everybody knows a bolted 29 trumps a natural 19 anyday. or does it?
hairy1 5-Apr-2005 4:17:19 PM	The other day I did the 'variant' [yellow line]. I figured mantis went somewhere through the rooflet but couldn't remember where exactly. I wonder how much of a variant it is - its a little harder than 14, but the piton is on the variant, not off to the right where will shows the original route to go...? tim
nmonteith 15-Sep-2005 9:08:25 AM	On 28/03/2005 WM wrote: > So, has anyone got a bolt-remover I can borrow? Don't worry Will. In typical cheap skate Nati style all these new bolts on Fang Buttress are cad plated dynabolts. They will be rusted out within 15 years.
Eduardo Slabofvic 15-Sep-2005 9:56:01 AM	Which means they can be replaced without drilling new holes, and leaving blobs of metal in the rock for future generations to wonder at.
nmonteith 15-Sep-2005 11:10:34 AM	On 15/09/2005 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote: >Which means they can be replaced without drilling new holes Or you could just use stainless dynabolts and not have to bother at all. Stupid cheapskates.
Eduardo Slabofvic 15-Sep-2005 11:54:19 AM	Agreed
Rich 5-Dec-2005 12:35:21 AM	Nice work Will, looks like a sweet line. I'll be up there next weekend and will have bit of a play on em.. shame about the rap chains but I wouldn't think it would deter people from finishing the route. Top section looks the best bit..
Dave J 5-Dec-2005 12:27:53 PM	On 5/12/2005 Rich wrote: >Nice work Will, looks like a sweet line. I'll be up there next weekend >and will have bit of a play on em.. shame about the rap chains but I wouldn't >think it would deter people from finishing the route. Top section looks >the best bit.. I think you'll find most people will be doing that route just to get to the chains so they can top rope the other route into submission. And Will you could be a little bit more gracious...on top of the extra traffic that chain will generate for your route (well at least the first half of it anyway) thanks to me you can now claim retrospectivelyt to have established 3 new pitches on fang butress which, I think, makes you the foremost developer of the butress.
nmonteith 5-Dec-2005 12:35:30 PM	I didn't have any problems with the chains on Wills route - i think we traversed up a bit earlier than Wills original line - thus avoiding the chains. All those new routes on Fang Buttress are really good - the 26 up the guts right of Strolling is totally wicked - superb rock.
Dave J 5-Dec-2005 1:15:37 PM	On 5/12/2005 nmonteith wrote: >I didn't have any problems with the chains on Wills route - i think we >traversed up a bit earlier than Wills >original line - thus avoiding the chains. I'd put the chain in before I was aware there was even a route there. The route underneath is absolutely over at that point and without a chain it seemed like it would just be a nuisance to scamble up to the top of the cliff and then scamble back down to that point and then back jump the route to get the gear out. The arete above is really quite pleasant but, at around grade 12, a bit of a non-event for anyone who could get themselves there....perhaps now the chain is in people will be able to do it as one of those rap in climb out type deals (I hear they're all the rage right now). >All those new routes on Fang Buttress are really good - the 26 up >the guts right of Strolling is totally wicked - superb rock. Have you done that one Neil? Its called "Ergonomics"
simey 5-Dec-2005 1:35:43 PM	On 5/12/2005 nmonteith wrote: >>All those new routes on Fang Buttress are really good - the 26 up >>the guts right of Strolling is totally wicked - superb rock. On 5/12/2005 Dave J wrote: >Have you done that one Neil? Its called "Ergonomics" So not only has the classic and slightly commiting Strolling Right Hand Variant (24) been retro-bolted, but the few metres of new climbing even get a new name... I quite liked the idea of it being called Strolling Right-Hand Variant Right-Hand Variant Finish.
simey 5-Dec-2005 1:43:53 PM	In fact to be more exact it should be called Strolling Right-Hand Variant with Right-Hand Variant Start with Right-Hand Variant Finish.
nmonteith 5-Dec-2005 2:24:47 PM	On 5/12/2005 Dave J wrote: >Have you done that one Neil? Its called "Ergonomics" I've been 'on' it - but not ticked it! Great moves...

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