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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Guides updates Muline, Red Rocks, Ruined Castle

D.Lodge
20/03/2007
1:37:53 PM
No Neil the worst move at the crag is the fist jam crux on Fruit Punch.

phil_nev
20/03/2007
2:11:47 PM
Update - Red rocks route Dislocation (21) should have no stars!!!
Has a very scary hollow block on it and maybe one worthwhile move.

nmonteith
20/03/2007
4:22:09 PM
On 20/03/2007 D.Lodge wrote:
>No Neil the worst move at the crag is the fist jam crux on Fruit Punch.

Apparently if you are tall (180cm+) you can avoid this move by reaching right to some slopers and
climbing around the jam move. Grade 23 according to those who have done it. I don't have the wing span
unfortunately and had to resort to the horrid fist jam.

nmonteith
20/03/2007
4:23:48 PM
On 20/03/2007 phil_nev wrote:
>Update - Red rocks route Dislocation (21) should have no stars!!!
>Has a very scary hollow block on it and maybe one worthwhile move.

That block is bomber*. I smacked the crap out of it with a hammer and it didn't budge. I think ts
connected fairly solidly at the bottom.

* this block may not actually be bomber.

phil_nev
21/03/2007
8:40:08 AM
On 20/03/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>On 20/03/2007 phil_nev wrote:
>>Update - Red rocks route Dislocation (21) should have no stars!!!
>>Has a very scary hollow block on it and maybe one worthwhile move.
>
>That block is bomber*. I smacked the crap out of it with a hammer and
>it didn't budge. I think ts
>connected fairly solidly at the bottom.
>
>* this block may not actually be bomber.

Hehe... Oh and the first move is nails as well.

Goshen
21/03/2007
9:02:59 PM
I couldn't get the fist jam crux on Fruit Punch either; but did have fun trying (still have the scars); although I did manage to climb around it, and I'm only short. Talking about being short, I know you've said it's reachy; but the first move of Alexius is hard; not just reachy? You could be safe to wack an extra grade on that one. Blood Letter was simply awesome! So was War Horse; although took a while to figure how to get around the Arete!

Awesome crag Neil...

westie
2/04/2007
1:30:33 PM
Hey Neil,

would the Sharyn George mentioned on some of these routes be Canadian? about 28-30 years old? I think I knew her.... in a way.

Dom
2/04/2007
1:48:18 PM
smooth...

nmonteith
2/04/2007
2:54:07 PM
no, she's a local.

westie
2/04/2007
3:15:23 PM
Ah good.

phwoar that Canadian could keep you awake at night... woah Nelly!!! she did this thing where she rocked her hips and ......sorry.
kieranl
30/04/2007
8:55:42 PM
Neil, what's the line of rings going left from Fat Fingered Freak. Looks a good slab route (if it was tilted a lot the other way).

nmonteith
1/05/2007
9:44:04 AM
On 30/04/2007 kieranl wrote:
>Neil, what's the line of rings going left from Fat Fingered Freak. Looks
>a good slab route (if it was tilted a lot the other way).

One of my (numerous) projects. I spent a few days on it, probably 27+, it's very thin in two places.

phil_nev
1/05/2007
10:02:35 AM
It actualy looks quite good.... Its just a shame you have to traverse in. Would be awesome if it went direct....

Hey neilo, your 24 there, struck twice.. Did you batman to the first bolt?

nmonteith
1/05/2007
11:18:07 AM
On 1/05/2007 phil_nev wrote:
>It actualy looks quite good.... Its just a shame you have to traverse in.
>Would be awesome if it went direct....

There is no start sadly.

>Hey neilo, your 24 there, struck twice.. Did you batman to the first bolt?

Yes, the route desciption says - "stickclip then batman up to first UB"

phil_nev
1/05/2007
11:49:04 AM
Why didnt you do the moves starting from the ledge? Did you try them? it would add a bouldery start, proably only about grade 25/26..

certainly starting from way down low (the ground) would be ridiculously hard, but it wouldnt be too bad off that ledge.

nmonteith
1/05/2007
12:29:52 PM
Have you actually done these moves Phil? I can't actually picture this 'ledge' you talk about - and i
certainly tried the start moves but felt they were impossible for me. Certianly not grade 25.

phil_nev
1/05/2007
12:50:30 PM
Nope, havnt tried, but i spied it with willby and we both though that from the 'ledge' it could go quite easily.
The route itself looks quite good, prob the best of the new bunch.

nmonteith
1/05/2007
1:05:06 PM
I'll wait for the actual ascent then! I still think this start move will be way out of keeping with the rest of
the route.

phil_nev
1/05/2007
1:17:10 PM
If i ever drag myself up there again ill certainly give it a lash...

swampy
2/05/2007
6:28:34 PM
On 21/03/2007 Goshen wrote:
>Blood Letter was simply awesome! So was War Horse; although took a while to figure how to get around the Arete!

Where at Red Rocks are these routes?

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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