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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 54
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Stockyards Car Park (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Pain and Frequency (28) @ Northern Outcrop
5:19:01 PM
Can you come up here and do 'Hey Sucker' ? Buy ya a beer.
5:40:04 PM
What's that?
5:44:40 PM
On 11/08/2004 duglash wrote:
>i don't think so, if it's a naked body in flight i think it's Volker Jurisch(?)

Don't have the guide so just going from memory, I'll try to have another look. But I think it was a clothed body monkeying out the underside of an attached dead branch, heading out towards the thinner end... The 'route' name was something suggestive of unexpected timing of a plummet. I wondered what you'd do about the tree branch plummeting with you....
5:58:13 PM
Yeah, I havn't seen it but it could be - at Toolondo I presume. Send a scan if you get hold of one.

6:40:32 PM
On 11/08/2004 WM wrote:
>(off on a tangent again but at least I know he's checking this thread)
>Duglash was it you on the cover of Gordon Poultney's 'sport' guide to
>victoria monkeying out the dead tree branch about 15m above the lake? Did
>it snap?!

It was Johnny Dunlop. Knowing him, it probably snapped, but he emerged unscathed.

9:39:05 PM
Hey Sucker is this liddle 18 of mikl's (I think the guide referred to it as a chrissy pressie for Animal - sad trainspotter wot I am), on South Head. Bolts all rusty, position insane.

11:40:18 AM
Doug had a good go at Pain and Frequency in the cold and wet weather yesterday. He is very close to the redpoint! I took plenty of photos - check 'em out!
4:34:59 PM
From an email from Dave Jones

"Well tell neil he's completely blown my onsight attempt."

: )
5:07:00 PM
With reference to the second photo, I take it that some serious dogging moves were invloved.

5:41:50 PM
jeez deadpoint, that was a bit of a dog attempt at humour.......
7:15:45 PM
leggings douglas !! very eighties. nice shots neil.
7:44:56 PM
Mr Crinkle !
8:20:09 PM
Alas no, Mr Krinkle mk II - Krinks went missing a few years ago in Brisbane. That's Jed.. Jed, meet
Jarvis.. (((CHAOS)))
8:21:22 PM
Actually they almost are 80's - theyre about 10 years old. Myer Miss Shop if anyone's after.
8:13:17 AM
Aww, sad.

Nice route by the way. And what's wrong with some Myer leggings ? Oh, and get a haircut !
8:31:07 PM
Hey lay off Jules - just cos you're beautifully married, almost exactly 2.5 kids, dog, the PC job and not to
mention the rugged, understated good looks only barely masking the undiluted flame of manliness that
burns uncensored within - I mean, it's not so easy for the rest of us, you know?
10:47:56 AM
it's my undiluted flame of manliness that gets me through. I'm getting worried though that my good looks are fading enough to be considered understated. It's all OK, my climbing is still crap.
mikl law
11:38:34 PM
A confession to make, I'm sure that Pain and frequency is harder now than it was as every time I'd get on it I'd break a hold (read little 1 cm cube quartz dot, about the size of those little dice you get in cheap games) and rip my flesh off and have to come back. I was climbing in these funny blue and white boots, like a blimpy version of Asolo canyons that probably were the best for edging. How are the Muira's on it. I noew have a pair and did't like the way they soften up after a few months, so I poured resin into the front of the boot and they'll stay stiff for years now.

The photos make it look a lot nicer than I remember it

9:46:09 PM
Nice pics! Love the one of Jed. Have you been back yet Douglas?
2:37:24 PM
Hey there Pei!

Mikl - Yeah I've just spent day 3 on it with no luck - 2 to 3 days is about average for 28 so I was
wondering if it was a bit of a bag - which I thought was a nice touch.

The Muiras are borrowed from Nick S. and fit me surprisingly well but are a fraction loose. Watching
them creep as I rock over the crux foothold is... memorable.

I reckon it's a great route (I have had lots of little gravelly bits come off, but nothing major. It seems to
have cleaned up now). Having done exactly 2% of the routes in the Youies I can confidently say it's the
best route there. What would be interesting too would be to try the other side of the arete... it's
overhanging for a few metres and not so many features. I imagine it'd go, tho I can't imagine being able
to clip.

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There are 54 messages in this topic.


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