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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Teneriffe (General) (General) [ Teneriffe Guide ] 

Author
cinderella at teneriffe

Superstu
23/12/2006
4:51:13 PM
i recently did this route and found one of the bolts very hard to clip (basically it was in the middle of the crux, and there were comfy stances above and below)...

we were wondering if a hold has broken off this climb? there is evidence of broken flakes all over the wall. or was the middle bolt always hard to clip?

as for grading, i'd believe anything between 17 and 20 in its current state.
SBW
24/12/2006
9:25:15 AM
Second bolt is awkward to clip if you don't get in the right stance. I always felt the grade to be more like 18 although it is reach dependent. Did you do the other climbs at Eagle Rocks?

Superstu
24/12/2006
10:03:26 AM
Might have missed the stance then. Still, a nice route all up.

Unfortunately that was the last route we did for the day at teneriffe as we had run out of water. It's really really dry out there (maybe this christmas rain might have helped?)

The White Hart pub rocks!

SBW
24/12/2006
5:58:22 PM
Just got back from Tenneriffe, all clips on Cinderella are fine, no holds broken off.
Very warm today as well best not to climb here in summer, sparrow slabs are shaded in the afternoon
robin
31/12/2006
7:55:24 AM
My partner spent the best part of a day cleaning the route, hence the name Cinderella. The bolts placements were worked out off a top rope where often a stance can feel good but when you're on the sharp end it's not so good. The stance for the 3rd bolt is OK but I tend to think with hindsight the bolt would be better placed a couple of feet lower so it could be clipped from the lower stance. Also the first bolt on Happy Wanderer is a similar scenario.

Paulie
18/01/2007
10:42:04 AM
Yeah we thought about 18 too, great route that one. Didn't find any of the bolts hard to clip.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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