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2-May-2011 12:57:57 AM
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Did a couple of problems here today. Bit confused by the descriptipons in the thread, but I made a short camera-perched-on-rock video - perhaps someone can tell me which problems I climbed? I did a sitstart from the lowest holds I could see, and climbed left and right lines from the same point.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5Nxv7YobJE
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2-May-2011 3:28:49 PM
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1st problem in your video is discussed as number 2 in a previous post. Humpty Dumpty is the second problem you did in the video, though not exactly sure which holds are in or not. Did it feel V8/9?
Davidn - the wall above continues for another 10 metres or so of mossy nonsense.
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2-May-2011 3:44:05 PM
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I think the pain meds for your ankle has clouded your judgement somewhat... The whole idea of bouldering is to focus on the quality hard moves and not continue up the mossy easy wall. There are routes established in the dark ages that are on the wall above and deserve to be ignored!
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2-May-2011 4:37:15 PM
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I like the low-tech bouldering mats.
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2-May-2011 5:26:50 PM
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I spotted those low-tech mats at the side of the street as I headed out to Camel's Hump. Lucky really, as I don't have anything else.
Humpty Dumpty didn't feel v8/9. I would have said v6. If that's the line, then perhaps I used a different sequence or something. The left line felt a little harder, v6/7. Nice moves on the crux.
The roof line on the other side of the buttress (number 1 on the topo), starting at the large pocket, looked much harder. Either it involves a morpho span to a good edge, or an impressive cross through from the tiny undercling.
Some way to the left of that, I did a sitter (lh on face, rh on edges under roof) with one hard move to gain a slopey jug, then swing right along blobs to juggier jugs. I tried it from a low undercling but it made an alarming crack, so I gave up the low start. V5 maybe.
I bet there are still some harder things to do on that block. I also found a small hidden roof that might have some good sitstarts. Uphill at the top of the slope and 25-50m-ish right of the Humpty Dumpty block.
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