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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Pinnacle Face (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Xena bail

Groveller
11-Jun-2021
11:38:59 AM
Is it possible to bail on the last pitch of Xena and head in to the cave? Think I might run out of time or have difficulty on the last pitch.

Duang Daunk
11-Jun-2021
6:18:26 PM
On 11-Jun-2021 Groveller wrote:
>Is it possible to bail on the last pitch of Xena and head in to the cave?
>Think I might run out of time or have difficulty on the last pitch.

Bailing on a 100 odd metre climb? Seriously bro, what time do you intend getting off the deck?
If youíre going to camp in the Eagles Eyrie then taking the necessary for that is well up the aid climbing track with associated slowness, and even then by the time you get to that height youíve already done the crux and itís not much more than a walk-in to it!
Hereís my time saving tip - run pitches 2 and 3 together as one 45 m run skipping the intermediate belay. Broís Simey and Glenn wonít mind.


Groveller
13-Jun-2021
6:12:57 PM
Thanks, should leave home earlier.

Duang Daunk
14-Jun-2021
4:32:03 PM
On 13-Jun-2021 Groveller wrote:
>Thanks, should leave home earlier.
>

No worries bro.
Post up a trip report on how it went after your done , as itís pretty quiet around here without your input lately!
Ps I reckon the Eagles Eyrie cave would be a good bivy worth doing for its own sake.
I donít remember the details but know that there was some reclusive dude that used to camp somewhere on the cliffs in that area years ago... perhaps one of the old time locals can fill us in on the details if they still read about climbing, - even if they no longer actively do it?

Groveller
15-Jun-2021
6:05:30 AM
Climbed exploding tomatoes at Wailing wall due to the threat of rain. Turned out to be a nice afternoon and had fun.Long walk in but not worth a trip report. Still looking forward to climbing Xena, Threadneedle and Steve's delight at Buxton.
Jenny
15-Jun-2021
10:51:57 AM
I believe the reclusive dude you are thinking of was a climber from Sydney called Mark. He lived in the caves above the Watchtower face for a couple of years before taking his own life. He was a nice guy. He used to solo Arachnus and Panzer every morning.

Duang Daunk
16-Jun-2021
7:01:29 PM
On 15-Jun-2021 Jenny wrote:
>I believe the reclusive dude you are thinking of was a climber from Sydney
>called Mark. He lived in the caves above the Watchtower face for a couple
>of years before taking his own life. He was a nice guy. He used to solo
>Arachnus and Panzer every morning.

Thanks for the info.
Sorry to hear of his manner of departure, and sorry too if I have caused unpleasant memories to arise for those who knew him.

Groveller
21-Jun-2021
8:55:15 AM
Climbed Xena on Saturday and didn't have to bail.
The last pitch has an initial "hard move" and then it was pleasant climbing from then on.
My belayer Pete was terrified most of the time as the climb is exposed in the middle two pitches.
Ps If anyone finds some car keys please PM me. (I did have a spare set).

gordoste
21-Jun-2021
11:56:51 AM
Nice one!

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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