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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 73
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Bolts at Buffalo
One Day Hero
24-Jan-2019
10:37:31 AM
On 24-Jan-2019 E. Wells wrote:
>Is there good trad gear or trees here or behind? If not, what precisely
>is the issue?

Putting aside the fact that Evan can't open his keyboard without taking the piss, allow me to answer this as if it were a serious question. Five bolts is overkill, big Ubolts sticking way out of the rock is overkill in granite. Nobody gets to do this at trad crags. If bolts are actually needed, the smallest appropriate number and style bolts are placed (and preferably camoflaged, so as not to wreck the natures for casual passers by).

>Otherwise the anti bolt brigade should 'put up'.

I don't chop stupid bolts at trad crags in isolation anymore. Any bolts that I chop from now on will also attract a penalty chop at sport crags. If Fuching idiots make me waste my time chopping their stupid shit, they're going to waste their time replacing sport crag bolts which got pruned.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24-Jan-2019
11:24:35 AM
On 24-Jan-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>Why aren't more people on here condemning these bolts? 5 fat U bolts as
>an abseil anchor at a trad crag. Are people so fuched up with concern about
>not making waves that they can't call bullshit on this extreme case abomination?
>
>If you don't speak up, idiots with drills will take that silence as approval.
>Then people like Macca and I are going to have to go chopping at established
>sport crags to reel this nonsense in.

I think the temporary silence is due to the jury still being out, as the perpetrators of said abominations have not yet been identified/confirmed.

There are enough anti-(stupid)-bolt fairies to sort the issue; some local, some prepared to visit from further afield* ... but, if it turns out to be army, or for that matter educational institution, or indeed commercial perpetrators, then simply chopping (although helpful short term message sending), isnít necessarily a longer term solution.
As for chopping Ďtheirí other routes as retribution for endangering overall climbing access, well, there mightnít be other routes if itís any of the institutional / commercial perpetrators?

(* if unsure of location - head to the logical spot to abseil down Fuhrer. Note: DC Adventure mob used to set up trad anchors with carpet edge protection for the purpose in that vicinity...).

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24-Jan-2019
11:32:02 AM
On 18-Jan-2019 Macciza wrote:
>Parks hardware?? Are they running tours up it? Or some commercial operators??
>
I was tongue in cheek referring to the railings, stairs and other infrastructure at The Horn.
;-)

>The Compulsion hardware hardly looks usable... Drag would be enormous
>trying to pull ropes...
>
When next there I will check it out again as itís been a while since I saw the original and you might be onto something additional or different to whatís ringing my memory bells.

>Oh well. I have enough issues up here without worrying too much about
>stuff down there ...
>
... Itís unfortunately a sad indictment of whatís happening these days.

Andrew_M
24-Jan-2019
1:41:39 PM
On 24-Jan-2019 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>I think the temporary silence is due to the jury still being out, as the perpetrators of said abominations have not yet been identified/confirmed.

I don't know the area well, but could it be this mob?

https://www.unleashed-unlimited.com.au/beyond-the-edge/

A bonkers idea, but with those rates could probably making a killing undercutting them M9...

Jacques Shurmer
24-Jan-2019
8:05:34 PM
I think youve found the culprit for the north wall bolts :O those rates though, considering most people paying them for the experience probably wouldnt even get a good nights sleep

Duang Daunk
25-Jan-2019
6:04:58 AM
On 24-Jan-2019 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 24-Jan-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Why aren't more people on here condemning these bolts? 5 fat U bolts
>as
>>an abseil anchor at a trad crag. Are people so fuched up with concern
>about
>>not making waves that they can't call bullshit on this extreme case abomination?
>>
>>If you don't speak up, idiots with drills will take that silence as approval.
>>Then people like Macca and I are going to have to go chopping at established
>>sport crags to reel this nonsense in.
>
>I think the temporary silence is due to the jury still being out, as the
>perpetrators of said abominations have not yet been identified/confirmed.
>
>
>There are enough anti-(stupid)-bolt fairies to sort the issue; some local,
>some prepared to visit from further afield... but, if it turns out to
>be army, or for that matter educational institution, or indeed commercial
>perpetrators, then simply chopping (although helpful short term message
>sending), isnít necessarily a longer term solution.
>As for chopping Ďtheirí other routes as retribution for endangering overall
>climbing access, well, there mightnít be other routes if itís any of the
>institutional / commercial perpetrators?
>
I say chop them anyway bro, and keep your ears open to listen for squwarks from the aggrieved to confirm perps.

Itíd be interesting to know if Army, Institution and Commercial have had official sanction from PV eh?
gfdonc
25-Jan-2019
6:42:43 AM
On 24-Jan-2019 Andrew_M wrote:
>https://www.unleashed-unlimited.com.au/beyond-the-edge/

Ya hafta walk out the south side and pay for the privilege???!!

Miguel75
25-Jan-2019
8:48:11 PM
On 24-Jan-2019 Andrew_M wrote:
>On 24-Jan-2019 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>I think the temporary silence is due to the jury still being out, as
>the perpetrators of said abominations have not yet been identified/confirmed.
>
>I don't know the area well, but could it be this mob?
>
>https://www.unleashed-unlimited.com.au/beyond-the-edge/
>
>A bonkers idea, but with those rates could probably making a killing undercutting
>them M9...

Far out, that's a crazy amount for an abseiling adventure...
Jayford4321
26-Jan-2019
7:37:07 PM
On 25-Jan-2019 Miguel75 wrote:
>Far out, that's a crazy amount for an abseiling adventure...

Chitty bang bangs ya $1400 for minimum of 4 starters for the same deal.

Climboholic
28-Jan-2019
4:50:16 AM
On 17-Jan-2019 Macciza wrote:
>Also a bunch of hardware on the original tourist route at the Horn ...
>And some ridiculous lower offs? above Compulsion ...

I recall PV putting out an edict many years back that their safety railing was not to be used by climbers. Shortly after some rap anchors were installed at the Horn. This isn't what your talking about is it?

bigchris
28-Jan-2019
8:17:54 PM
Good evening ladies and gents of the chock,

Once again I'm posting here, but at least this time everyone knows what it's going to be about.

I wasn't going to go climbing this weekend due to an injury in the family (my mother-in-law legit stacked the ride-on mower and broke many a bone during the week) but we went to Buffalo anyway.

Buffalo isn't Arapiles, nor is it the Grampians. I can't keep my eyes on all of these places, so that can be up to other people, but I will try to keep Buffalo as it is. Buffalo is this wild, wild, sketchy, dangerous place which deserves respect. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind putting a lower off, or some extra bolts on a run out slab with permission from FA teams, but in all the trips that I've done to Buffalo, I don't think I really understood what it meant to have a place like this to climb in until this weekend's trip. Buffalo has a legacy that needs to be left after the current "old" climbers pass on, and in speaking with many old-school first ascensionists, I realised what needed to be done (with them coaxing me) with their advice in hand.

Country Road bolts x 5: Chopped/punched in. There is a giant crack right behind it (read: huge) that you could stick a 3, 4, 5 and 6 cam in there to rig a slackline anchor.

Wicked Solitaire bolts x 5: Chopped/punched in. There is a tree that you can tie a rope around and a crack (at the top of the climb!!!!!!!) that you can stick gear in to rig your slack line (I think from memory I've got to do one more, I ran out of battery).

North wall both Fuhrer bolts x 5: Chopped (see previous picture in thread). There is a giant (read: massive) tree right next to the bolts, not even half a metre away. Use that instead, or the multitude of other anchors that I found when walking around there. I did damage a piece of rock on one of them (probably 4cm in size), but will return with some glue and patch it up with local material so hopefully you can not notice it.

Slab on the way down to mushroom rock, approx 15 bolts. Chopped/punched in with the help of Geoff. I walked up and down the slab (it's actually just a piece of rock not even a slab, probably 10 degrees) and yeah, I don't even know wtf.

The very top of Angels buttress bolts x 3. Chopped/punched in. Once again, if you're not feeling safe walking down the easy descent to the top of Burstons Crevasse, sling the giant tree, or one of the giant boulders, or put some gear into one of the many cracks available.

There are a few more which I need to do, but I ran out of battery. I don't think chopping local sports crags is the answer, and I do realise that bolts will magically appear over time because everyone has access tp the available technology and it's cheap. However, the last thing I want is for Buffalo to be turned into the Grampians Moratorium and I want to keep the place for wide and/or run-out climbs, even if I'll never be able to do some of them.

Peace.

gordoste
29-Jan-2019
7:29:17 AM
Great job.

Interestingly, these bolts have nothing to do with the style issues you talk about - they are all just totally unnecessary. Chopping them is hardly going to be controversial.

Interestingly, most of the run-out slabs are not death-defying once you get past the 2nd clip, and replacing old rotten carrots with hangers would enable stick-clipping. This can help breathe new life into some of the routes that get very little traffic. Mikl already did this for some of his routes.

ajfclark
29-Jan-2019
7:34:53 AM
On 29-Jan-2019 gordoste wrote:
>Interestingly, these bolts have nothing to do with the style issues you talk about - they are all just totally unnecessary. Chopping them is hardly going to be controversial.

Have you not spoken to highliners before?

bigchris
29-Jan-2019
7:52:26 AM
On 29-Jan-2019 gordoste wrote:
>Interestingly, most of the run-out slabs are not death-defying once you
>get past the 2nd clip, and replacing old rotten carrots with hangers would
>enable stick-clipping.



Not the ones we did yesterday.....I have an amazing pic of Scott running out a mega slippery slab for about 12 meters! And that was after it was retroed :D :D :D :D I'm stoked that he didn't fall!!!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29-Jan-2019
4:44:28 PM
Thanks bigchris.

ODH, send him a T-shirt!
;-)

gordoste
30-Jan-2019
8:44:10 AM
On 29-Jan-2019 ajfclark wrote:
>On 29-Jan-2019 gordoste wrote:
>>Interestingly, these bolts have nothing to do with the style issues you
>talk about - they are all just totally unnecessary. Chopping them is hardly
>going to be controversial.
>
>Have you not spoken to highliners before?

I meant it won't be controversial among climbers. I couldn't care less what highliners think, they lost my respect when they made no attempt at all to think of other park users and the natural environment.

gordoste
30-Jan-2019
8:52:33 AM
On 29-Jan-2019 bigchris wrote:
>On 29-Jan-2019 gordoste wrote:
>>Interestingly, most of the run-out slabs are not death-defying once you
>>get past the 2nd clip, and replacing old rotten carrots with hangers
>would
>>enable stick-clipping.
>
>
>
>Not the ones we did yesterday.....I have an amazing pic of Scott running
>out a mega slippery slab for about 12 meters! And that was after it was
>retroed :D :D :D :D I'm stoked that he didn't fall!!!

Last pitch of Mother of Pearl? Glad it didn't rain while you were climbing!

bigchris
30-Jan-2019
9:06:35 AM

>>Not the ones we did yesterday.....I have an amazing pic of Scott running
>>out a mega slippery slab for about 12 meters! And that was after it was
>>retroed :D :D :D :D I'm stoked that he didn't fall!!!
>
>Last pitch of Mother of Pearl? Glad it didn't rain while you were climbing!



It was Spit and Polish on Mackay slabs! Holy freak that thing is a fun time!

The good Dr
30-Jan-2019
9:16:12 AM
Spit and Polish had 3 carrots on the 2nd pitch which were dodgy (to say the least) which I replaced bolt for bolt with 3 FH. Have more been installed?

bigchris
30-Jan-2019
10:21:50 AM
On 30-Jan-2019 The good Dr wrote:
>Spit and Polish had 3 carrots on the 2nd pitch which were dodgy (to say
>the least) which I replaced bolt for bolt with 3 FH. Have more been installed?

No, it was as it was when you and scott did it!

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 73
There are 73 messages in this topic.

 

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