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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge South Side (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Japanese Deep Freeze - Australias Hardest Crack
Karl Bromelow
12-Jan-2018
7:13:54 AM
http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/logan-barber-establishes-hardest-pure-crack-climb-in-the-land-down-under/

[Moderator edit: It is trad and graded 31 / 5.13d.]
gfdonc
12-Jan-2018
9:33:08 AM
"The short, power-endurance line, which has remained an open project since the 1990s, involves a shallow, flaring 0.75 granite crack on overhanging terrain and challenging gear placements."

As far as I know the route still hasn't had a first all-aid ascent - a 'project', Rod??

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12-Jan-2018
1:43:30 PM
I was up at Mt Buffalo New Yearís Eve and met Logan Barber and his belayers in the carpark at the chalet after that days attempted ascent.
He reckoned he had the moves dialled and most of them linked, so thought he was close to sending it.

When I found out how quickly he and Zac had sent The Great Shark Hunt I figured he knew what he was doing and Japanese Deep Freeze was probably in the bag!

He is a friendly and very unassuming bloke (given some random old fart button-holing him in a carpark to enquire as to their climbing re gear at hand), and when our conversation finished we shook hands and parted ways, but not before I noted from that (thought to myself), that he has small hands and so would suit a thin crack, plus they were still in remarkably good condition given Buffalo granite gnarlyness and his attempts till then.

He also mentioned that Simon Carter had some photos and a bit of a write up about the route, and Iíve subsequently tried to track that down, but so far without success.

No mention of aid was had re the routes history, but I dare say (without 1st hand viewing it), that if itís consistent 0.75 cam size then itíd go at a modest clean aid grade. Given itís location and relatively short length for Buffalo, then I donít covet itís first aid ascent... though I have my eyes on a couple of other longer lines at that end of the Gorge!
;-)

Well done Logan. Iím stoked for you, and Australian trad climbing (including adventure locations), as a result of your achievement.

gordoste
15-Jan-2018
1:48:25 PM
There is a pic on his Instagram account and the comment is that it is flaring. Which would explain the difficulty.

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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