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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Bard or bust

groveller
9-Jun-2017
4:21:47 PM
Hi all, plan to climb the Bard at Arapiles this weekend with my wife. Last time I tried was 5 years ago with my son leading. He screamed all the way across the traverse,wouldn't let me second it and bailed. I have slowly been learning to lead and now I plan to lead climb it. It's almost a bucket list kind of challenge. Any tips on leading/seconding it?
PeterW
9-Jun-2017
8:32:14 PM
The message for climbing the Bard traverse hasn't changed in 45+ years. By all means place gear in the crack at the back, but to actually climb it stay as far out on the lip as your nerve will let you!

Speaking of gear, you need to protect it both for yourself and for your second, which also means you have to watch out for rope drag.
kieranl
9-Jun-2017
9:01:09 PM
And keep control of the rope at the belay on the far side of the traverse.

I have a fond memory of Harley Burke, during one of his many attempts on Bard, about to start up the third pitch and finding that a big loop of his rope had dropped down over the initial traverse of Checkmate where Jim Grelis had grabbed it and was threatening to clip it to one of his runners.

Groveller
10-Jun-2017
7:54:53 AM
Thanks Peter and Kieran, where is rope drag the problem?
PeterW
10-Jun-2017
2:33:24 PM
On 10/06/2017 Groveller wrote:
>Thanks Peter and Kieran, where is rope drag the problem?

The traditional belay at the top of the first pitch is several metres below the start of the traverse. Then you move up and slightly right before traversing left. If you aren't careful, you get a nice sharp bend in the rope. (Which can be magnified if you aren't careful with gear on the traverse.) It's not a big deal as long as you keep it in mind, and extend the right-most piece of gear with a longer sling.

Many people today run the first two pitches together, but I wouldn't recommend it for a less experienced leader. It can magnify any rope drag and communication problems.

Kieran's comment was about managing the rope on the belay at the end of the traverse. The ledge is small and often windy, and if the rope is dangling down you risk it getting caught up on something.

Groveller
12-Jun-2017
7:56:15 PM
The weather was a bit threatening at Araps this morning but Ange and I eventually decided to give it a go. We climbed the first two pitches of Eagle Cleft due to a party of 3 arriving at the Bard before us. Thanks to Nick, Georgie and Gus for letting us go ahead on the traverse.
Found the traverse awkward but fun. Didn't like the 3rd pitch, not enough pro for a bumbly like me. Probably too some risks on this pitch that I shouldn't have. Loved the 4th pitch and walked off to Alis from here.
Well done Ange on doing a great job of seconding.
PeterW
12-Jun-2017
11:47:48 PM
Well done! The third pitch has a reasonable amount of pro, but it's not always obvious.

If you want to scare yourself, put yourself in the shoes of the people on the first ascent. No cams, no wires, no hexes! Slings and pitons if and when you could find them!
Martym
14-Jun-2017
11:01:27 PM
On 9/06/2017 groveller wrote:
> Last
>time I tried was 5 years ago with my son leading. He screamed all the way
>across the traverse,wouldn't let me second it and bailed.
How did you do that exactly - if you're at either side of a traverse?

Groveller
15-Jun-2017
5:23:24 PM
He back climbed the traverse and we continued up Eagle Cleft. One day we might do it together.

Duang Daunk
17-Jun-2017
9:17:02 AM
On 15/06/2017 Groveller wrote:
>5 years ago with my son leading. He screamed all the way across the traverse,wouldn't let me second it and bailed.

>He back climbed the traverse and we continued up Eagle Cleft. One day we might do it together.

That sounds like a lot of screaming. Kind of like bro Ed when he tops out , on Tiptoe.
You did tell him once he did the traverse the first time that he'd just done the crux of the route, to save him coming back?

Pat
17-Jun-2017
4:23:04 PM
Have bailed from the left hand end of the traverse before. Went further around left and down to a set of anchors. Single rope rap to the ground?

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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