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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 57
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VIC Arapiles The Organ Pipes (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Loose anchors on Conifer Crack
gfdonc
9-May-2017
2:32:50 PM
I gather this has been well publicised, but haven't seen anything on this forum, so FYI:

The rap anchor at the top of Conifer Crack is loose. I am guessing the glue has failed in the left-hand bolt, and presumably suspect in the other. I haven't witnessed this at close range, but when I was on Tannin 2 weeks ago a climber reached the anchor and was able to pull one out with his fingers. (and then asked for directions of how to walk off).

There's a big sign on the noticeboard at the toilets as well, but hopefully by posting here (a) more will be aware, and (b) someone with the tools and expertise might swing past and fix it.
Steve
One Day Hero
10-May-2017
12:08:10 AM
Well, someone better go up there, grind them off, and drill big new holes for the replacement rings which will last 50 years (just like this lot did).

Stugang
10-May-2017
1:12:44 AM
That's an interesting hypothesis. Unfortunately the agenda for the next committee meeting is full.

However, Eduardo is the company secretary and he is an expert in drilling big holes in enormous rings. As long as you hold your breath it ain't so bad and if you accommodate him he will prolly fit you in under AOB.


ajfclark
Online Now
10-May-2017
7:34:32 AM
Does anyone know how long that rap is? The second pitch of conifer crack is listed as 40m, so I gather the rap is close to that so only usable by those with doubles or possibly 70m+ singles? Doesn't strike me as a super useful anchor in the first place?
gfdonc
10-May-2017
9:03:50 AM
I don't, but they are about level with the anchors on Tannin which is 30m, and would go to the same ledge, so you might be able to get down with one 60m rope.
kieranl
10-May-2017
9:45:36 AM
I wondered when I heard that one had gone in. A large part of the adventure and charm of Conifer Crack was the descent, dropping down through the hole and wending your way down the gully. Unlike a lot of the gully descents there is no longer a big erosion problem, as it's mostly on rock or the steps behind D Minor.
I would also worry a that there are some detached blocks on that top pitch and don't like the idea of people abseiling down and pulling ropes over them.
That's one I wouldn't mind if it disappeared.

Eduardo Slabofvic
10-May-2017
10:29:46 AM
On 10/05/2017 Stugang wrote:
>As long as you hold your breath it ain't so
>bad
>
>

But you did it so well, that was the impressive part
gfdonc
10-May-2017
11:10:19 AM
On 10/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>That's one I wouldn't mind if it disappeared.
+1
timbigot
10-May-2017
2:29:21 PM
The anchor above Honeycomb also has one of the two bolts spinning lose in it's hole despite having the nut firmly tighten'd
kieranl
10-May-2017
3:55:02 PM
On 10/05/2017 timbigot wrote:
>The anchor above Honeycomb also has one of the two bolts spinning lose
>in it's hole despite having the nut firmly tighten'd

And has its own thread http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=28670&Replies=1

timbigot
10-May-2017
9:30:27 PM
Ha, clearly an urgent issue then. mind you i rapped on it twice after noticing it was loose
jrc
11-May-2017
11:24:56 AM
KInd of agree with you Kieran the Indiana jones adventure descent is definitely a major part of c crack!

I thought the rap anchors would have been on top of the third pitch block which I remember diwn climbing once after getting everyone else off, also I had used the tree on one side with a rope over the block.

I wouldn't like to be sitting on that tannin ledge and have folks rapping down pitch 2 as you say !
gfdonc
11-May-2017
12:38:48 PM
Actually I've long thought the scramble down that hole could use a rung or two, especially when escorting beginners.
Better that than rap chains tho'.
One Day Hero
11-May-2017
5:02:14 PM
On 10/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>That's one I wouldn't mind if it disappeared.

Then go and do it. No one seems to have any concerns about adding this shit without consultation. There'll be no end to it unless a decent proportion of climbers are prepared to chop garbage which offends them.

ajfclark
Online Now
11-May-2017
5:47:41 PM
On 10/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>That's one I wouldn't mind if it disappeared.

Go take them out and pop them back in on the top of the 3rd pitch where they might be useful.

I wonder if the set at the top of the gully between conifer crack and horn piece went in at the same time?

Eduardo Slabofvic
11-May-2017
7:54:26 PM
So who is the gimboid putting all the crap anchors in?

So instead of me spending my precious spare time trying to remove bolts (although they seem to come out quite easily), why doesn't the useless twat who put them in in the first place clean up their god awfull mess and remove them, then undertake not to put anymore in, anywhere, ever again.

The freaking useless gnob
kieranl
11-May-2017
8:19:17 PM
On 11/05/2017 ajfclark wrote:
>On 10/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>>That's one I wouldn't mind if it disappeared.
>
>Go take them out and pop them back in on the top of the 3rd pitch where
>they might be useful.
Takes energy. Have to get up there and have a look first.

>
>I wonder if the set at the top of the gully between conifer crack and
>horn piece went in at the same time?

I hadn't heard of these? At the top of the gully? Why? Are they wanting to simulate Eiger stonefall conditions for climbers below?
One Day Hero
11-May-2017
9:45:48 PM
On 11/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>On 11/05/2017 ajfclark wrote:
>>On 10/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>Takes energy. Have to get up there and have a look first.
>
I bet you can do it in 2hrs round trip from your couch. Sounds like one bolt has chopped itself.

ajfclark
Online Now
12-May-2017
7:28:37 AM
On 11/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>I hadn't heard of these? At the top of the gully? Why? Are they wanting to simulate Eiger stonefall conditions for climbers below?

Freddy found them when he went to down solo the gully because some one was top roping horn piece through the anchors...
kieranl
12-May-2017
9:26:45 AM
On 12/05/2017 ajfclark wrote:
>On 11/05/2017 kieranl wrote:
>>I hadn't heard of these? At the top of the gully? Why? Are they wanting
>to simulate Eiger stonefall conditions for climbers below?
>
>Freddy found them when he went to down solo the gully because some one
>was top roping horn piece through the anchors...

Which gully are they in : between Conifer Crack and HornPiece or between HornPiece and Dirge?

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There are 57 messages in this topic.

 

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