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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles Central Gully Right (General) Starless Buttress [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Los Endos widow maker?
WM
3/08/2004
8:31:48 AM
Anyone know anything about a big loose rope-cutting flake on Los Endos just waiting to do a number on someone?
Opinions on trundling/reinforcing?

adski
3/08/2004
10:01:13 AM
climbed it six months ago and I never saw the flake (or noticed it was loose).

nmonteith
3/08/2004
10:03:15 AM
I did it a few years back and never noticed a death block...

Cool Hand Lock
7/08/2004
3:27:32 PM
Sounds like a dare to me.
duglash
8/08/2004
1:21:23 PM
Yep I did it last year and it does feel scary but it's been there for years and the route gets a fair bit of
traffic.

JJ
8/08/2004
2:24:00 PM
Adski & I did the route last Easter and I know the block you are refering to. It is just after the start when you come round the arete. I tapped it and it sounded very hollow, I thought this was bad and didn't want to put any pro behind it. I felt even worse when I realised that I then had to stand on it to keep going. But as everyone has said, it's copped heaps of traffic and there are tons of other routes to do :-/

JJ

adski
8/08/2004
11:58:42 PM
Yeah JJ since you were leading you'd probably remember things like that. I had the luxury of being on 'low intensity seconding mode' on that pitch, where you don't get so phreaked by the tunes the rock makes.

Yet another example of JJ's hyper-photographic route memory in action.. I can't even remember the moves on my campus board ;-)

adski
9/08/2004
12:05:55 AM
As for trundling or reinforcing it, it seems a tad unnecessary. In my opinion when loose rocks form in death-block configuration trundling is a waay better option than reinforcing, and the work should ideally be done by the FA crew. Before the FA via the safety of abseil. But new routes are often more spontaneous than that, hey?

To pry open the can of worms a bit further, i'd say reinforcing shouldn't be done. If it's a 'key hold' there'll be another 'key hold' should it go. This kind of discussion borders on the murky area of rock vs art.

nmonteith
9/08/2004
9:26:01 AM
On 9/08/2004 adski wrote:
>This kind of discussion borders on the murky area of rock vs art.

That one quote sums up chocktone 100%!
jono_1
10/08/2004
4:19:32 PM
I climbed Los Endos last year and what an awesome route it is. Yep the flake down low is a bit loose but that is just a part of the route. You can down climb the route if your not happy with it or just don't climb it. Arapalies has limitless other routes with nothing loose.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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