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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Buffalo - Angels substitute?

harold
29/08/2007
3:33:19 PM
just the second pitch of vertical tai chi. Might have to have a crack at the first pitch next time. I looks pretty good too. What is the climbing like, 25 is pretty close to my limit.
WM
29/08/2007
5:18:57 PM
On 29/08/2007 harold wrote:
>just the second pitch of vertical tai chi. Might have to have a crack at
>the first pitch next time. I looks pretty good too. What is the climbing
>like, 25 is pretty close to my limit.

the first pitch is amazing and the meat of the pitch is this gorgeous 15m section of unbelievable 22-23 scallop-smearing (ie it is not endless "little moves" like lots of granite slabs but you have to do long reaches and step-throughs and rocking onto high-steps etc because the face in between is too steep to comfortably smear so you're stuck on the scallops) then a cool pockmarked steep slab (almost like climbing incuts!) to a technical toe-rail dyke exit up left to the DFH anchor. The crux down low is where the features don't quite connect so you have to do one or two complete hail mary smears on really steep slab which I have still never stuck the whole sequence though neither did Kevin on the (hot) days we were on it (when he sent it a month or 2 later it was cooler). So you want good rubber and conditions for the crux. You could easily put a long draw on the 2nd bolt when you're rapping in to drop the grade to 23 M1.

Objectivity may be affected by the fact that it was my conception... but it is definitely a class above pitch 2

And I dare say it is easier than a certain project at Youeys NW Outcrop !

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29/08/2007
5:30:12 PM
>(ie it is not endless "little moves" like lots of granite slabs but you have to do long reaches and step-throughs and rocking onto high-steps etc because the face in between is too steep to comfortably smear so you're stuck on the scallops)

If your flexibility & footwork is as ordinary as mine you can get exactly the same sensation / experience on lesser grades!
As an example I don't think I have ever done a climb where I have 'rocked over onto high steps' as much as I have done on Butterflies are Doodle, but for the masters they may almost be able to do that one with one hand behind their back (ala Peroxide Blonde)!

harold
29/08/2007
5:44:49 PM
thanks Will, sounds like something I would like too.

>And I dare say it is easier than a certain project at Youeys NW Outcrop !

yeah, still working on that one. I was getting pretty close earlier in the year, but then I ripped off a key hold that I thought was bomber. I was pretty crushed. Its still possible but upped the grade a notch. Oh well, a good reason to just get stronger.

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