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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Buffalo - Angels substitute?
3:22:57 PM
On 8/11/2006 kieranl wrote:
>Elizabethan on the Queen Vic Buttress.

Kieran - this sounds great in the guide (gets 21) - it's another one I'm quite interested in. Any more memories of it? Easy to find the descent etc? Route finding ok?

4:04:19 PM
On 9/11/2006 ardnut wrote:
>Wild Blue Yonder links to Vortex and then Bannana Blase for a good multipitch *** >extravaganza at 18.

This would be an excellent link up if 'Wild Blue Yonder' wasn't such a crappy, loose and worthless route!
4:22:15 PM
Elizabethan originally had a short aid section, a traverse right from the base of the chimney on blade pegs. Supposedly this has gone free at 21 to Joe Friend but it looked very unlikely to me on both occasions that I was up there. The chimney is not 21, more like 18 or 19. Cunning seconds can avoid the chimney by tensioning right from the base of the chimney after removing the pro.
It's very easy to find, a big corner in the main gully not far down from Stumble on a Daffodil. Double set of cams to size 4 wouldn't go astray. I recall stacking nuts together for the belay above pitch 2 as I had used everything below.
We got stuffed up at the top (after third pitch) where the description says to go right to a gully. We got into horrible country, encountered an angry snake and had dramas. There's probably a more direct, better way off.
4:45:12 PM
No. 4 cams, blade pegs, tensioning around chimneys, snakes, stacked nuts...

Sounds great!
6:02:40 PM
It was a good nut stack. It was certainly memorable and first pitch is as good as any at Buffalo.

6:40:45 PM
On 9/11/2006 shiltz wrote:
>James - Do you have any specific recommendations for the Back Wall?

The following routes at Back Wall are all worth the walk.

Currency Lad 16, best with direct finish 19
Cloudstreet 21
Her Majesty 22
Bonaparte / Crun combo 16
Don't Look Back 21
Quartz Route 17
Vodka & Caviar 19
Extinction is Forever 20

Fish Boy
11:56:05 AM
Neil mentioned Furher Direct....why not the Eliminate insted?

I did that 2 days ago, and the crack on the second pitch is a dream...dont miss it!

12:30:47 PM
On 10/11/2006 Fish Boy wrote:
>Neil mentioned Furher Direct....why not the Eliminate insted?

My mistake - i meant to say Furher Eliminate! Yep - second pitch is killer. Looks horribly wide but the
layback crack on the inside of the offwidth is a dream.
12:50:37 PM
is the crack full of dirt ?
tokyo bill
8:22:55 PM
Damn, that looks awesome!

This thread is solid gold. I'll be printing out a copy and bringing it along. Thanks all.
Fish Boy
3:47:00 PM
Kent, no dirt.

That pitch as Neil said is amazing. It looks sick from the have to do a tricky slab traverse to get into it. The first few metres is hands then strait into the most delicious finger locking layback I have ever done. Half way up is tricky again where you cant get your fingers behind the crack....just as you pass a piece of tat in the crack. Right at the end for about 6 metres you have to lay back way good.

The pitch after that is a full on off width work out with loads of gear, despite what the guide says...oh, it is no way 17 either...more like 20 I'd say.

12:27:23 PM
James - Thanks for the recommendations. I've been back to the guide and it looks like Back Wall is well worth the walk. I also saw that you had a hand in most of the routes. If the weather clears up then we'll be up there this w'end. I have the "old" guidebook and the interim updates. Are there any major corrections for Back Wall in the new guidebook that I'll be missing?
tokyo bill
5:16:45 PM
Anyone else been on Elizabethan? If we're going well, we're thinking about maybe giving it a go. Anyone care to further explain why a 400-plus meter route at that grade earns no stars? Makes me a tad nervous...

Flying out tomorrow afternoon. Wheels down in Melbourne Thurs. morning - can't wait!

6:12:12 PM
On 21/11/2006 tokyo bill wrote:
>Anyone else been on Elizabethan? If we're going well, we're thinking about
>maybe giving it a go. Anyone care to further explain why a 400-plus meter
>route at that grade earns no stars? Makes me a tad nervous...
>Flying out tomorrow afternoon. Wheels down in Melbourne Thurs. morning
>- can't wait!

I've heard it's an epic. I can't remember who told me this, but they got lost on the approach and it all went south from there, though there were apprantly some really great bits too! Would definately be a full on adventure! Let me know how you go, be interested in doing it myself one day.

tokyo bill
6:51:48 PM
Gah! Sorry, it was actually the Queen Vic Route that I was thinking about, although Elizabethan also looks interesting.

Anyone been on Queen Vic?

9:25:30 AM
On 8/11/2006 harold wrote:
>I am very keen for Furher direct this summer.
How did you go (on this, or the 'eliminate'), Harold?

1:58:11 PM
Hi M9. I had a site at catani booked for a couple of weeks after christmas but then the place caught fire. Pretty disapointed but I did manage a weekend later in january. The weekend mission from Geelong is a bit harder to organize now with a 1 year old daughter tagging along. We did manage to get on Hard Rain which I have to say is the best climb I have ever been on.

A bit of beta for anyone interested in Hard Rain. Its no where near as long as the guide states. Maybe 75m at most. Also, for rapping in - douple ropes ( we had 60m but 50 might just make it) will get you to the double bolt belay belay of the 27. From there its a short rap to the ground. Also, I thought it would be way better to belay at the bolt belay of the 27 rather than the painful hanging belay at the end of the 22 section. Was getting pretty sore thighs by the time I got off the hanging belay. Finally, it would be great if someone could replace the bolt on the 3rd pitch. Thats got to be the most riduculous bolt Ive ever seen. Maybe 5mm thick and rusty. Might hold a coat hanger with a not too heavy jacket on it. Makes the slab traverse that its suposed to protect a little scary.
Vertical Tai Chi was another standout. Amazing position and climbing. The long weekend ended up not being as long as intended as two of my climbing partners managed to injure themselves. One with a buggered finger from trying to campus the fingerlock crux of lift girls lament when he couldnt get his feet to stick. The other dislocated his shoulder mid crux while seconding me up bewoulf!
Hopefully this summer we will do some dogging up the north wall if I can get a bit of time. The gorge is definitely on the top of the list of my favorite places to climb.
2:15:51 PM
On 29/08/2007 harold wrote:
>The other dislocated his shoulder mid crux while
>seconding me up bewoulf!

Pete's still not back climbing yet, either. Bumped into him at Lake Mountain recently. He's waiting for the shoulder op and then 6 months recovery.
3:00:28 PM
Hey Harold sounds like fun at Buffalo. Hard Rain might be 75m high for the rap but it wanders enough that it'd be about 90-95m of climbing. Belaying on the 27 sounds like a good idea - I got the same harness hang problem.

did you do the 1st pitch of vertical tai chi or just the 2nd?

3:32:31 PM
Just link the first two pitches together (you'll need a few extra cams to do this!)

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There are 44 messages in this topic.


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