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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Buffalo - Angels substitute?
tokyo bill
1:04:16 PM

Angels was on the list for a possible repeat run this trip. Not now I guess, what with the peregrine nesting report up in the General forum. Cool that the peregrines are there, but I'll admit to being a bit disappointed.

We're talking about The Initiation as a possible consolation prize. Anyone been on it who can share thoughts?

Any other suggestions for long moderates to replace our Angels jaunt?

Thanks in advance!

1:11:06 PM
The Initiation is an amazing route (i did it yesterday). It is much shorter and less adventurous than
Angels though (easily done in 3 pitches). There is plenty of other quality routes up at the Hump to finish
the day with.

1:17:32 PM
Did the initiation on Saturday. Great fun although the first 5 metres is out of keeping with the rest of the route. Really good fun. Pintle/Pintle LHV is another one that is relatively easy and is also good fun.

1:38:31 PM
Yes the Pintle variant is heaps of fun, watch for the almost dodgy flake up top ;-) I recommend Maharaja the 17 - pumpy, technical and fun!!

4:25:37 PM
Yeah Initiation is great, though very easy (lovely mind) after the initial 10 mtrs or so of corner crack.

Other 3 star routes that (might - depends on your definition!) fall into the moderate category with good positions and solid climbing at the grade include Sultan (20) and Maharajah (17) on the Cathedral.

tokyo bill
8:38:34 PM
We've done Pintle LHV on a previous trip (along with Angels), and I agree it's fun.

Just wish there was something with some real length to it to substitute for Angels. Nothing like being on a route for the whole day and getting some real air under your heels!

Sultan looks like full value, since that's getting up there into hard climbing for the likes of me, and Maharajah sounds like fun, too.

Thanks for the suggestions!

9:04:35 PM
There's quite a few pleasant, long, moderate routes on the Back Wall. Much better than Angels actually. Forget it if you have difficulty in walking though.


10:00:22 PM
Fuherer Direct (21) on the North Wall. A good days adventure with serious exposure and commitment.
Bring the big gear for pitch 3.
10:29:10 PM
Elizabethan on the Queen Vic Buttress. Not sure what it's given in the new guide. First pitch is probably 18/19, lovely laybacking and bridging corner, short brutal bomb-bay chimney then two more long pitches about 16/17.

11:12:11 PM
I am very keen for Furher direct this summer. How big is the gear needed for pitch 3 and how hard are the wide bits. I have done Golgatha without too much trouble but I wouldnt want to commit to anything too much harder at that width. The first pitch looks wicked from the lookouts.

11:28:51 PM
I took single camalots of 4 & 5. That made it very well protected. I doubled up on camalots 1,2,3. The
wide bits are pretty easy (stemming and open-wall chimney). Its pretty exposed though! You don't
actually have to thrutch much.

9:22:13 AM
Thanks heaps Neil. I was a bit intimidated by the wide looking sections but I will definately be onto it during the Christmas break now.
10:27:57 AM
Nothing like being on a route for the whole day and getting some real air under your heels!...
Try "Lord of the flies", I did it in winter and had a blast. Whats better, climb something all free but
thrutchy at 21 or aid some A1 bolt ladders and a roof and the rest of the route goes at 20. Heaps of
exposure all the way, trick little belay stances, great crack climbing! also, check out my topo in the new
buffalo guide - left (south) of "angels" are some long routes that are link ups, one starts up "Devilled
Cream" or "Commader Cody"(21,a1), has a new direct second pitch and a whole bunch of new pitches
finishing up 'home james' at about 21, and Wild Blue Yonder links to Vortex and then Bannana Blase for
a good multipitch *** extravaganza at 18. Then there is the top half of 'Path of Genghis' starts form a long
way down the sewer wall track at pitch 5 and finishes up Beowolf for a 5 pitch 20. (or do the whole route
at 23), thats your best 'angels' substitute really.

11:06:14 AM
Kieran - What do you mean by "bomb-bay" chimney?

11:10:13 AM
James - Do you have any specific recommendations for the Back Wall?

11:16:31 AM
On 9/11/2006 shiltz wrote:
>Kieran - What do you mean by "bomb-bay" chimney?

Easy to fall out of?

11:36:44 AM
12:19:49 PM
On 9/11/2006 tnd wrote:
>On 9/11/2006 shiltz wrote:
>>Kieran - What do you mean by "bomb-bay" chimney?
>Easy to fall out of?
Flared and slightly overhung so if you slip you're going into space.
12:21:56 PM
I forgot to mention the Queen Vic Route. That's really long and a reasonable sort of grade (19). There'll be a few offwidths though. I haven't done it but often meant to.

2:57:40 PM
great recomendations guys. I am putting them on my list for all day adventure routes. The gorge is such a big place is good to have some advice before commiting to the unknown.

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