Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Author

New non-select megacrags at Arapiles


Eduardo Slabofvic

21-Apr-2016
1:19:26 PM

On 21/04/2016 hero wrote:
>
>The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle The top of which makes a nice 18 Variant
>Finish to Bygone.

That's the stupidest route name ever.

hero

21-Apr-2016
3:13:28 PM

Thanks. I have been trying for that accolade for many years.

stugang

21-Apr-2016
4:42:03 PM

What grade does it go at?

Anyway ed hasn't got any credentials to be handing out such accolades.

PS hero: I still think of Duck Quack as the pinnacle of succinct perfection in climb names - sometimes I don't sleep at night thinking of it. Chris Marker would be proud.

simey

21-Apr-2016
5:34:32 PM

On 21/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>oh the plaque area .... how could I have missed that for 25 years? I will
>rush out and find some new routes on it tomorrow as I have done every existing
>route on it.

Really? So you have climbed Cumelittle (25), Sonic Boom (25)? And you have led Dramp (21), Loboff (17)? And you have ticked all those routes that are only described in italics in our guide such as Chilli Digits (24), Wilma Holds Her Own (26) Angry Little Man (23)?

I won't list all the other routes you have done there cause I'm impressed enough!

Wendy

21-Apr-2016
5:42:25 PM

I haven't done Wilma holds her own either and in fact I'd managed to forget about its existence because it such such an unmemorable run of routes. I haven't lead those other pieces of mank because they are pieces of mank. You're going to be blown away by the quality of my routes in comparison.

In fact, I think I'll run out and repeat those routes of Greg's in preference. Except the bottle one. That's a hoskins death route.

widewetandslippery

21-Apr-2016
5:43:15 PM

Insnt cumelittle 24? Why isnt Wilma in the guide?


Zebedee

22-Apr-2016
3:21:06 PM

On 21/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>
>In fact, I think I'll run out and repeat those routes of Greg's in preference.
>Except the bottle one. That's a hoskins death route.
You only die if you fall off.

Wendy

25-Apr-2016
12:05:36 PM

I did another Pritchard classic, The Climb that Shagged Me the other day, although the most I could say for it was it was better than climbing on the Plaque. Then I did that Bygone - Water bottle link up and unfortunately, you have to force yourself to climb the arete and it features liberal amounts of moss, dodgy rock and not so much gear. And Paul's start to it looks as terrifying as I remembered - never have I seen a route up such shattered rock at Araps. Not only do most of the holds look ready to come off, that's what little gear you have is in as well. I nosied around any other possible lines up that wall whilst I was there, and much as I would have loved to find another good 18 in the area, Bygone really is the only decent line on that wall. But at least I wasn't climbing on the Plaque :).


phillipivan

25-Apr-2016
12:31:02 PM

Sounds like good training for climbing at Stack's Bluff then.

ben wiessner

26-Apr-2016
6:11:47 PM

On 21/04/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Insnt cumelittle 24?

In my opinion Cumelittle is very hard for the grade at 25. Took me about 20 times longer than any other 25 at the mount.

I reckon it's bloody brilliant.

Wendy

26-Apr-2016
6:58:01 PM

On 26/04/2016 ben wiessner wrote:
>On 21/04/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>Insnt cumelittle 24?
>
>In my opinion Cumelittle is very hard for the grade at 25. Took me about
>20 times longer than any other 25 at the mount.
>
>I reckon it's bloody brilliant.

You and Simey were made for each other. Stinky Project is a gazillion times better than Cumalittle :)

Jayford4321

26-Apr-2016
7:55:16 PM

On 21/04/2016 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 21/04/2016 hero wrote:
>>
>>The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle
>
>That's the stupidest route name ever.

It wouldn't seem so stupid 2U if the water bottle contained martini insted?

Wendy

1-Jun-2016
10:18:03 AM

Here we go again ...

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/arapiles/watchtower-area/area/11972425

So good that international visitors were queueing for the second ascents ... really.

If you like steep faces littered with horizontals on nice rock, the left end of this wall is for you. There are a few reachy, thin steep faces awaiting anyone better at that stuff then we are - Adam has already knocked one of them off so you'll have to race him for them.

simey

1-Jun-2016
12:54:41 PM

On 1/06/2016 Wendy wrote:
>Here we go again ...

You are right about that. Throwing stars around on your new routes like confetti. It is laughable.

jdb

1-Jun-2016
2:46:37 PM

On 1/06/2016 simey wrote:
>On 1/06/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>Here we go again ...
>
>You are right about that. Throwing stars around on your new routes like
>confetti. It is laughable.

Simey, There is only one way to settle this difference of opinion that you and Wendy seem to have. You both need to do a new route together and then get an independent arbitrator to interview you both (separately) after 'the event' to help decide if it was equally good for both of you........


Duang Daunk

1-Jun-2016
8:07:34 PM

On 1/06/2016 jdb wrote:
>On 1/06/2016 simey wrote:
>>On 1/06/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>>Here we go again ...
>>
>>You are right about that. Throwing stars around on your new routes like
>>confetti. It is laughable.
>
>Simey, There is only one way to settle this difference of opinion that
>you and Wendy seem to have. You both need to do a new route together and
>then get an independent arbitrator to interview you both (separately) after
>'the event' to help decide if it was equally good for both of you........

The interview should include the questions; how many stars do you think it's worth?, and do you think it will ever be retroed?

I nominate stugang and Eduardo as joint interviewers to ensure counterbalanced unbiased reporting!

simey

1-Jun-2016
9:17:40 PM

I am happy to second Wendy when she has establishes another forgettable new route and then tell you guys how it's a no-star climb up an uninspiring wall that has been ignored for good reason. So long as my name doesn't appear on the first ascent details. I don't want to get a reputation.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

1-Jun-2016
10:32:11 PM

On 1/06/2016 simey wrote:
>I am happy to second Wendy when she has establishes another forgettable
>new route and then tell you guys its a no-star climb up an uninspiring
>wall that has been ignored for good reason. So long as my name doesn't
>appear on the first ascent details. I don't want to get a reputation.
>different to the A_WE^SO_ME one that I already have.

Fixed that post for you...
Heh, heh, heh.

Wendy

2-Jun-2016
7:55:20 AM

On 1/06/2016 simey wrote:
>On 1/06/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>Here we go again ...
>
>You are right about that. Throwing stars around on your new routes like
>confetti. It is laughable.
>

Thecrag throws stars around automatically. It's actually very annoying. If someone ticking a route rates it as good, it gets 1 star, very good, 2 stars etc. I haven't rated or starred most of my routes. But other people who have done them have and thus thecrag has put stars on them. I don't think much of some of the routes that have since gained stars.

Wendy

2-Jun-2016
8:10:37 AM

The noncrag assessment of those routes:

Running Amok and Walking Simulator are really good and worth stars. Attractively unrestrained is probably never going to clean up properly. Meekly Unconcerned has some good moves, but some terrible rock and mossy finish. Armchair Critic had a very mossy finish that needs still more cleaning up. It's OK climbing, I've certainly done worse. Guider not a Climber has a really fun sequence of fingerlocks through the top roof and is the better route. Helter Skelter looks good, but Adam is grading everything about 2-3 grades below what they are for those of us who haven't been obsessively training for he last 6 months, so it could be 28 :)

There are 42 messages in this topic.