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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Victoria Range (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Updated rap stations at Emu Rocks
4:40:23 PM
We were up there last weekend and have replaced the tat with chains and rings.

I'll post up photos when I get some time over the weekend, but:
1. The first rap is 22m off a chain and ring, about 2m left of the original tat, under an overhang. This is at the right-hand end of the cliff, and has a cairn above it. 22m rap to the next station. (The tat is still there, forgot to clean it).
2. The second rap is off two rings just behind the prior tat. I've cleaned this up. There's one catch though, the only decent solid rock near there is back from the edge a bit, so you get some drag where the rope goes over the edge.
To counter this, I've sacrificed a few m off one of my lead ropes, tied into both rings with a SS mallion and biner in the end. This rope (2 cords of 9.8mm) can hang over the edge, meaning you get an easier pull.
Unconventional but I didn't have enough chain to get over the edge and was concerned moving the rap station to the next-higher ledge would have been too far from the ground. It's a 53m rap to the ground from there.
5:33:23 PM
Canibalise a few swings for chain?
7:27:02 PM
Thanks for doing this. Emu Rocks is great.
1:57:20 PM

Top rap station

Lower rap station

If you rap from the rings, don't run your rope down this notch!

Lower rap station "pre-rope"

8:48:53 AM
Good job and wish I had read this a couple of days ago. We went up to Emu Rocks for the first time on Sunday and, whilst I enjoyed the climbing, I did bitch and moan a bit about the rap setup! The various guides had a few different descriptions of slung bollards and rings. The only thing we found was about 4 meters to climbers left from where you top out Sahara. Its was an oldish looking length of climbing rope threaded behind a bollard quite a way (3m?) back from the edge. I augmented with a long sling of mine and a locking biner to thread the rope through and we rapped off that. From there it's a full 50m to the ground, maybe a touch more. Then we got the ropes well stuck trying to pull them.

Where are these new chains in relation to Sahara?
9:16:20 AM
On 26/04/2016 peteclimbs wrote:
>Where are these new chains in relation to Sahara?

Over to the right.
You rap down just left or slightly over the cave systems that are at the right end of the cliff.

3:37:04 PM
Yes, at the right end of the cliff, but not in plain view.

From the top of Whipping Boy and Sahara, traverse right (facing the cliff) to the top of Patagonia Direct Finish which is roughly at the top of a ramp of red rock. Continue right, down the red ramp for ~8m and the first rap station is tucked in a small alcove just below the ramp.

The second (lower) rap station can also be used for descent from the Patagonia original/traverse finish. It is ~6m up and left of the finish of the climb on easy but fragile rock. The move back left through chickenheads does add some drag, so you may want to bring your partner(s) across the traverse before heading up to the station. The alternative is a pile of tat about 6m to the right of the finish of the climb.

PS The Patagonia traverse finish is correctly described in the Sublime Climbs guide but incorrectly drawn on the topo as exiting the top of the orange corner diagonally up a short face. The traverse actually heads out of the corner a few meters before the top of it and all the way across the face horizontally to the skyline (spectacular).
4:04:32 PM
Thanks for the work Steve. Will make the next visit even more enjoyable!

There are 8 messages in this topic.


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