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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Blue Mountains - First Time and Need Beta
Michael_from_NYC
17-Dec-2015
3:35:01 AM
Hey everyone,

A friend and I will be climbing in the Blue Mountains for a few days over the next couple of weeks. It is our first time here and would appreciate any tips/advice. I have the 2010 edition of the Simon Carter guidebook and identified some areas that I think will work for us, but any feedback is welcome. Our limit for trad would be up to 17/18 (5.9) and sport would be up to 20/21 (5.10c).

It seemed like these areas had a high enough concentration of moderates to make full days out of them:

Mount Boyce (Blackheath)
Mount Piddington (Mt Victoria)
Zig Zag (Mt Victoria)
New York (Mt Victoria)
Bardens Lookout (Mt Victoria)
Mount York (Mt Victoria)

Dam Cliffs (Bells Line)

Sublime Point (Leura) – to climb Sweet Dreams

Also, any advice on which hanger to buy for the carrot bolts? The gear shop in Sydney seems to have two versions.

Thanks!
Michael
maxdacat
17-Dec-2015
11:21:28 AM
Piddington is good for a bit of everything. Start around Flake Crack area for trad & mixed classics, then maybe head over to Pindari to do this Sporting Life when it gets hot. Then head up to Boronia for a play on some harder single pitch sport.
climberman
17-Dec-2015
11:41:19 AM
Mick,

Get RP hangers, or at least not PFH if you have to make a choice. PFH ones can be a tad fiddly over larger newer bolt heads. Don't stress too much though.

Nice crag choices.

For more mid-range sport routes have a look at Shipley Upper as well, but go midweek for a quieter time. Boyce last Sunday was very very very quiet, gate was locked which added 10 mins to the walk-in.

Have a great time.

Timfreddo
17-Dec-2015
5:34:18 PM
Check the weather before you come up, if its forecast over 25 degrees, get an early start as you'll bake at all the crags you mentioned from around midday...

Don't rush to New York or dam cliffs... They're not the best representation of good blueies climbing..
martym
17-Dec-2015
5:42:17 PM
How are you travelling? Renting a car? Borrowing a friends? Will you be camping or doing day trips?
Note that public transport is generally very far from crags. Factor in on average half an hour walking from the car.

Looks like you've done your research, though if you want real classics some of those areas are a bit pedestrian.
There are loads more exciting climbs at Sublime point - skip Sweet Dreams and try one of the others next to it.
If you really want something spectacular head to the Grosse Valley on the other side of the mountains.

E. Wells
17-Dec-2015
8:52:23 PM
I can lend you enough bolt plates. Pm me when you need them.
Dr Nick
17-Dec-2015
9:55:27 PM
The Dam Cliffs are the hot day option, and there's fun to be had there even before you venture into the water. Get there reasonably early, climb till it's too hot, then go for a splash.

Michael_from_nyc
18-Dec-2015
10:31:29 AM
Thank you for all the feedback, guys! We are renting a car, and staying at the hostel. Sun exposure and being mindful of the temperature were things that we couldn't have known beforehand. Thanks again!

E. Wells
18-Dec-2015
11:43:05 AM
My recommendation would be to make an early morning second ascent of 'Weld Party' in the grose, grade 19 (for 2 meters) . I did it with one 60 meter rope. Its a new route so on thecrag.com
Dr Nick
18-Dec-2015
8:53:58 PM
Oh, if you've got a spare rope then check out the canyons as well. Plenty can be done without ropes, or with only one as well. Empress is short and fun, and (please check this) my memory is it can be done with a single 50m rope, or reversed.

You can use your good rope, but it will get wet and possibly sandy. A static is nice if it's available 
widewetandslippery
18-Dec-2015
9:08:53 PM
go to the Wolgan. Old Baldy has what you want and is in the shade. good summer cliff. the main camping is a holiday zoo but think out of the box and you'll have a great time.

zarb
20-Dec-2015
7:15:00 AM
Dam Cliffs isn't the best crag. The climbs are fun, but super short. I'd save it for a day when it's too hot to climb anywhere else.

Bardens is good before about 2pm as it stays in the shade.

If it's bucketing down with rain, some of the climbs at Bowen's Creek are within your grasp and is an amazing crag when it's wet outside. Walk-in is a bitch though.

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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