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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Chipping at Lindfield rocks.
PGS
25-Jul-2015
5:38:21 PM
So The blank wall has been re-chipped.

This route was chipped decades ago (1980s?) and was repaired shortly afterwards.
The repairs were very, very well done and the route has been a classy test-piece for generations of climbers.

Now some weak-fingered and weak-willed folk have seen fit to re-chip the repairs and also "enhance" at least one natural hold with their chisels.

That climb meant a hell of a lot for a lot of people... years ago as a schoolkid I watched Warwick Baird float up it, and it was a sweet moment indeed when I first succeeded on it myself.

Thanks a lot guys.

mikllaw
25-Jul-2015
8:56:41 PM
Refill
Dr Nick
25-Jul-2015
10:48:41 PM
What's best Mikl? Epoxy and some sand from the bottom? That's what I've used to fill holes in the past, but it's been on less high profile routes.
Bloody shame, because that's such a nice problem, particularly now we've got pads to throw over the scary tree roots.
Rawpowa!
25-Jul-2015
10:57:52 PM
It seems bizarre to chip a hold on a climb like that, maybe the repairs have come off or something else has happened. It's not like it's a first ascent, or they couldn't do some other problems at Lindfield.
mikllaw
26-Jul-2015
8:19:01 AM
best to pick up a representative rock and play around with glue/ sand till it looks ok, finding a glue the right colour is hardest.
patto
26-Jul-2015
3:12:30 PM
I'm not sure what it is like in Sydney but in Melbourne the bouldering community has exploded in the last 5-8years. In many ways this is a good thing. But it also means more people with less knowledge of what is and is not appropriate in climbing and the outdoors in general.

It is sad, but hopefully the bouldering and climbing community can all do their bit in ensuring that appropriate behavior in our beautiful outdoor areas is maintained.

I haven't been to some of the grotty European sport crags but from the stories I've heard it isn't a path that I'd like to our crags go down.
spicelab
26-Jul-2015
4:16:50 PM
Hasn't the 'key' foothold always been chipped?
mikllaw
27-Jul-2015
6:30:51 AM
On 26/07/2015 spicelab wrote:
>Hasn't the 'key' foothold always been chipped?

not that I know of, though I can't remember when the chips appeared or were repaired

There's also the big worn holds down low on abseil wall arete, which are just wear, and the chipped footer on the isolated slab opposite 4 cracks wall, which should be filled also (it's very light in colour so you'd need some nice pale sand)

PGS
27-Jul-2015
11:36:42 AM
Yes - the key foothold was originally chipped as a pocket, but was repaired a long time ago. There was still a tiny edge along the bottom though - just enough for some traction.
mikllaw
5-Oct-2015
1:20:44 PM
I patched the chipped footer on the slab boulder this morning.


Before


Smear the back of the hold (about 80mm across) with glue, then fill with pebbles and glue/sand mix


Pack the surface with sand/dirt mix

This 'could' wear a bit if people used it as a footer, but it's not in the right spot.
Tell us what you think after a bit of wear.
dmnz
5-Oct-2015
10:34:58 PM
Nice one mikllaw
gfdonc
6-Oct-2015
9:31:19 AM
Yeah looks good. You heading down to Arapiles anytime soon? ;-)
dalai
6-Oct-2015
10:30:25 AM
Nicely done Claw!

On 6/10/2015 gfdonc wrote:
> You heading down to Arapiles anytime soon? ;-)

Lot of chips to fix there... ;-)


mikllaw
6-Oct-2015
10:42:02 AM
For the low worn footers on abseil wall I'll add oxide colouring to the glue till I get a better base, the kenny/slab boulder was very light grey but the base of Abseil wall is almost black. Need good white, red, and orange glue bases for araps.
PGS
1-Jan-2019
12:11:39 PM
So, just to give you folks some schadenfreude:

1. I was the original poster.
2. Chips were filled a while ago now(thank you Claw/whoever did the job)
3. I now can't do it without a rope anymore!!

Nice to have a challenge for the future, but I'm a bit worried as I'm not getting any younger!
mikllaw
2-Jan-2019
4:38:58 AM
It was always a bit highball, with a rough and sloping landing; I think we only did it when we were light lithe, strong, young, and didn't worry about our ankles.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic
The chip after the 80s repair had a 2mm edge at the base, the "new" chip was almost 30 mm deep (can't see this in the photo).

The repair is hard to spot now but the technique of smooshing dirt onto the glue gives it a much deeper texture than the wall.

I also whined about climbers chipping/enlarging underclings on the slab boulder, but I think they are actually Leeper Z piton scars
Dr Nick
2-Jan-2019
7:44:11 AM
I've had success with spray on contact glue and then blowing/brushing appropriate coloured sand on to it. This will go over existing epoxy. However, I don't know how it holds up in wear situations because I mainly use it to cover bolt scars/stubs or similar where it's purely cosmetic.

Damo666
3-Jan-2019
8:37:42 AM
Great job, thanks mikl.

I've spent many many days at Lindfield over 25 years and it shits me that people still do this kind of thing.
mikllaw
3-Jan-2019
8:55:07 AM
On 3-Jan-2019 Damo666 wrote:
>Great job, thanks mikl.
>
>I've spent many many days at Lindfield over 25 years and it shits me that
>people still do this kind of thing.

I think some (like the first image of the slab boulder) may have been wear.

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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