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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range Muline Cave (General) [ Muline Guide | Images ] 

Author
Muline Cave guide on ACA

nmonteith
26/10/2006
10:37:32 AM
I just added an up-to-date guide to Muline Cave. This is by far the best crag for garde 30 in Victoria and
has some routes that really deserve the magic 4th star!
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=697

I will be adding a bit more info in the next few days as i source it (ie FA dates and names)
dalai
26/10/2006
10:51:29 AM
Good work Neil.

Though for a second reading the heading I was wondering what A Current Affair were doing at Muline!

Breezy
26/10/2006
10:53:34 AM
On 26/10/2006 dalai wrote:
>Good work Neil.
>
>Though for a second reading the heading I was wondering what A Current
>Affair were doing at Muline!

LMAO

there must be dodgy businessman hanging out at the crag :P
dalai
26/10/2006
11:06:40 AM
On 26/10/2006 Breezy wrote:

>there must be dodgy businessman hanging out at the crag :P

Perhaps a slow news week (how many dodgy salesmen can there be?) Maybe they got wind of Nathan using non stainless bolts and realised what a groundbreaking piece of journalism that this would make... ;-)

kp
26/10/2006
11:13:28 AM
haha...

i think the description for after midnight should 'atleast' mention the unprotected traverse. From below it looks like a safe route...

nmonteith
26/10/2006
11:19:19 AM
your wish is my command KP
kp
26/10/2006
11:20:08 AM
danke!
simey
26/10/2006
12:31:14 PM
Nice work Neil.

Just a quick correction. Krankandangle wasn't established by HB, but by myself and Sylvia Fitzpatrick in or around April 97.

A bit more history... Steve Hamilton dragged me and a few others into the cliff many years before it started being developed. I think he had discovered the place with Baxter and came back raving. I recall him telling me about this line that looked like three Sandinista's stacked on top of each other. I went in there expecting to climb mega-routes routes ground-up.

Although the cliff was impressive, I was actually disappointed. Most of the cliff looked ridiculously hard. I remember saying to Steve, 'Where is the triple Sandinista line?' 'In fact, show me one line that we can actually start climbing?'

In the end I began rap-bolting the steep line of what is now Krankandangle. I faffed around for ages getting in position, then my hand drill kept getting stuck, and finally when I got a bolt in place... I wasn't happy with it.

We eventually walked out and never bothered to return.

It wasn't until many years later that HB mentioned this amazing cliff that he and Noddy had visited and their suprise at seeing a single bolt halfway up one of the lines. It was then that I suddenly remembered the place.

Malcolm had established a few other routes and asked me whether I still planned to do that particular route.

'Yeah, of course!' (What a crock - I had completely forgotten about it).

I took a power drill next time I visited the place and finished bolting the line (replacing my old dud bolt). The ascent was a formality, although I recall Sylvia finding the crux moves a bit reachy and falling off a few times.

So there you go... another absolutely brilliant cliff (along with the Gallery) that I visited prior to their development and which I failed to see the potential of!



macboy78
26/10/2006
2:16:51 PM
Wow, that crag looks so awesome. Makes me sad I'll probably never climb above 24.
Forgive my ignorance for what I'm about to ask. As a newy to Vic climbing (I've relocated from WA) what are the 'BIG 4' sport crags that are referred to in the guide?

shiltz
26/10/2006
2:47:31 PM
I was curious about the "Big 4" sport crags as well. I guess the Gallery is an obvious one. Van Diemans Land might be another. Spurt Wall perhaps? Millenium Caves?

billk
26/10/2006
2:55:42 PM
On 26/10/2006 shiltz wrote:
>I was curious about the "Big 4" sport crags as well. I guess the Gallery
>is an obvious one. Van Diemans Land might be another. Spurt Wall perhaps?
>Millenium Caves?

G-Land
drdeviousii
26/10/2006
2:59:27 PM
Gallery
Millenium Caves
VD Land
Muline

nmonteith
26/10/2006
3:01:45 PM
Gallery, Muline, Taipan (+spurt), Millenium

ALL of these crags have some of the BEST sport routes in the world. Van Diemans land is good - but
there are plenty of similar routes to it at places like Thailand.

nmonteith
26/10/2006
3:03:13 PM
On 26/10/2006 simey wrote:
>Nice work Neil.
>
>Just a quick correction. Krankandangle wasn't established by HB, but by
>myself and Sylvia Fitzpatrick in or around April 97.


A great history lesson Simey! I'm going to add it to the guide...

shiltz
26/10/2006
3:03:23 PM
Might need to start a new poll ;-)

I suspect G-land is an outsider. Millenium Caves vs Spurt Wall. Millenium is definitely more photogenic but I think a lot more sport climbers will have been to Spurt Wall.

nmonteith
26/10/2006
3:15:27 PM
Taipan+Spurt = 1 crag in my opinion - and is certainly one of the top 4.

shiltz
26/10/2006
3:27:03 PM
Nice guide to Muline not that I'm likely to ever get beyond poking around the edges. Same goes for the Gallery (Two Tribes is the furthest right I've been), and Millenium (where I've only ever climbed one route). Good to dream...

MrKyle
26/10/2006
9:57:13 PM
Top work Neil. Top work.
SirOinksALot
27/10/2006
11:43:23 PM
This crag is in an extremely delicate part of the Gramps, why publish this (taking into account that you haven't climbed 99% of the routes there) when you will draw attention to the place and lead to it's banning.

If you can climb the routes there, you will hear about them without having to read about them on a bumbly web site like c--kstain!

Not everything needs a topo!

P.S. As for Nathan's bolts, these cadnium bolts and hangers have been tested on this rock at this site and are superiour in strength and durability to glue ins (and you can replace them with ease)!

rodw
28/10/2006
6:53:31 AM
Siroinks...Ill save Neil the trouble....your a dickhead.

Nice work Neil....good job.

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There are 30 messages in this topic.

 

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