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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
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Second Coming (22)
1:37:01 PM
Seeking beta please.
Is the mantle the crux? What is the gear like below you when pulling this move?

What are the moves like above Judgement Day?

What is pitch 2 like?

2:20:54 PM
Awkward moves down low. Don't leave your hexes behind, you'll need them. Second pitch was nothing special.
It has been a while so I can't give you move by move beta.
2:31:21 PM
On 19/10/2006 shiltz wrote:
>Awkward moves down low. Don't leave your hexes behind, you'll need them.
>Second pitch was nothing special.
>It has been a while so I can't give you move by move beta.

Been years also. But since I don't own hexes...unsure of that recommendation.

9:43:18 PM
I've belayed a friend of mine on second coming. He sowed it up all the way to the crux, and then he went straight up, not out left for the mantle.. It is quite a reach though.. The mantle was done that day aswell, by someone shorter. Neither was done by me, rejected on an attempt on both options.
9:57:56 PM
In my opinion the mantle was quite basic, in fact absolutely trivial for anyone who has properly learnt the trade bouldering.

I found the bottom traversing left quite soon after the start the crux. The route does not exactly ease you into a rhythm.
10:11:28 PM
The mantle is no harder than anything else, just commiting. You could take a whipper if you blow it but the gear is good. The start is a bit nasty - there's an awkward move with stuff in flared cracks before you can get a good small wire in - can't remember what the wire was so can't spoil the experience. Al Mark took a groundfall off the start and it's not a nice landing.
I don't remember carrying hexes on it (and I would have had them) but I think I doubled on some smaller cams (#1, #1.5 I think). Double ropes are useful.
Anyhow, if you've just done Honeycomb you should cruise the first pitch of Second Coming. I've never been on the second pitch so can't comment on it.
It's good fun.
3:04:49 PM
Let's see if I can post an image... could be trouble if I succeed...

2:59:08 PM
(bump) Bring out yer beta!
See also
Note this dude (Canadian) mantled the front of the stance instead of the right side.
6:44:25 PM
On 19/10/2006 kieranl wrote:
>Anyhow, if you've just done Honeycomb you should cruise the first pitch
>of Second Coming.


Honeycomb is just about the easiest 22 I've ever done anywhere and Second Coming, while definitely not the hardest, is full value at 22.

I remember a key piece of gear is a little cam (blue or purple metolius I think) that you reach across and place before the awkward left traverse move at the start. The second pitch is good also and slightly easier.
11:21:24 PM
Good link there gfdonc. First photo of anyone on Take Five I've seen and, for possible reference on the weekend, a nice sequence on A Taste of Honey...
10:52:37 AM
On 2/11/2006 prb wrote:
>First photo of anyone on Take Five I've seen

In that case I obviously haven't been doing enough self promotion.

12:21:07 PM
Ta PRB. More pics after the coming 4-day weekend!

Take Five is one of the only routes where I remember thinking "I never, ever want to lead this again". Committing step-ups with dodgy gear. I was told beforehand that the first 10m had no gear, then it would be OK, so was well psyched up for a bold start then something more sane. The reverse is true, there are a couple of good pieces low down (small cam & wire) but the middle section has some of the worst cam placements I've ever had to rely on. I thought Auto Da Fe was very well protected by comparison.

Pitch one only I mean - the top two pitches are gold. Do yourself a favour and link up p1 of The Wall of the Afternoon Sun into Take Five for a fantastic excursion sustained at around 19.

Thanks for the warning re: Honeycomb. Honeycomb is 21 in my old guide so I'm not surprised by the comments.
Fish Boy
7:26:17 PM
gfdonc I agree with your comments regarding Take 5. I will never ever lead that again. I dont know where you guys found that gear, but I didn't put anything in until a little break about 40 metres up. Hell scary.
8:02:13 PM
Staying off-topic: I thought the gear on Take Five was more than adequate above 15m - I remember some bomber little cams below the crux. And after 40m I had run out of quick draws Fish Boy! I'd happily lead it again - it's only the (easier) start that was a concern.
2:49:45 PM
Yeah I'm with WM. I thought the pitch was pretty reasonably protected. I was kind of pissed off actually because I'd been avoiding it for years because the guide says 'you might as well be soloing', and when I did it it was fine. Sure the start is a bit tricky, but if you've plenty of small flexi cams then there's pro the whole way.

7:54:36 PM
On 2/11/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>Note this dude (Canadian) mantled the front of the stance instead of the
>right side.
That's the way I've done it. Exciting but straightforward.
I think I found Honeycomb harder then SC because I'm not very strong and pump out quickly (even when I was climbing well).
11:56:32 PM
To summarize, so far I've heard that Take Five (a) has little worthwhile gear and you may as well solo (b) is well protected (c) is runnout to begin then OK and (d) is OK to begin and then gets runnout. So much for a beta flash - I'll go for the onsight!
11:19:31 AM
Re: Take Five again (I blame myself for hijacking my own thread) - in case anyone is interested, I recall placing a bomber small cam (yellow Alien? not sure) low down, maybe at the 5m mark. Then a "good 1 RP" if you agree that "good" and "1 RP" are allowed in the same sentence.

However, both of those are below where the fun starts. There was a horizontal flare where I placed two dodgy cams a bit above the RP, plus a quartz lump that allowed a midsize wire to stick - not sure I wanted to put bodyweight on any of those, so I equalised a couple of them. After that, a couple of committing step-ups and a while before I got anything in that I would be happy falling on.

However I reckon the climbing is only 19 - the 20 grade allows a little margin for error IMHO.

12:18:12 PM
>However I reckon the climbing is only 19 - the 20 grade allows a little margin for error IMHO.
It probably gets the higher grade due to the protection element being considered by the FA?

12:24:44 PM
You're also talking about using Aliens. When was the route first climbed?

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There are 26 messages in this topic.


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