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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Western Cliffs Omega Block [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Boogie Till You Puke Beta
Kyneton Guy
29-Jan-2015
10:30:39 PM
Hi everyone.

I have been working hard on Boogie for the last two years and finally did all the moves last weekend. I wanted to know any tips for navigating the section from the third last bolt up to the anchors. I am fine finding the big pocket out left.

It is the section around, and immediately above the roof I'm finding doable, but inefficient. Im Going To try To Link the top Section next Before A red Point Burn In A Couple Of Weeks.

jprockbelly
30-Jan-2015
8:47:58 AM
But that's the easy bit! :)

From memory here is how I do it... although I haven't been on it in a while:

- So starting from the big pocket out left just before the roof. Step up on the 'peanut' hold on the point of the arête and go to the big jug in the horizontal break at the base of the roof.

- clip the bolt here and rest (I think this is the last bolt before anchor?), don't forget to breath.

- From here you follow a series of juggy sidepulls which face left (away from Witch). It should be pretty straight forward if you stand up on your feet and concentrate on turning your hips out, so as to do a sort of layback off the side pulls. For me it's only 2-3 moves to get to the next big jug under the anchors (although I'm pretty tall).

Hope that helps, although I'm sure other will give a better account
Kyneton Guy
31-Jan-2015
7:34:06 AM
Thank you. I did miss the juggy sidepull after the horizontal break.
jprockbelly
2-Feb-2015
9:32:31 AM
Glad I could help. Good luck with the send.
Olbert
2-Feb-2015
3:51:37 PM
I'm pretty sure the most accepted way to do it is get heinously drunk the night before, start the route early in the morning, get your knee stuck, almost puke on your rescuer and then shit your pants. Don't forget to have a camera guy onhand to make sure the world doesn't forget your shame.

http://vimeo.com/13831211
Kyneton Guy
2-Feb-2015
9:01:36 PM
Ha ha! Theres a Boogie Somewhere else!!!!

This is the Boogie we all know and love.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/camels-hump/omega-block-area/route/11948095

Sport route, no jamming. I will, however, heed your advice of getting drunk the night before.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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