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Old stuck nut on Tierry le Fronde, Frenchmans cap |
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25-Jan-2015 11:24:51 AM
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Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone knows any details about an old stuck nut on the third pitch of Tierry Le Fronde down on Frenchmans cap??
Its not the 3rd pitch proper but the crack to the right of the original route. I got lost (surprise, surprise!) and ended up stringing 2 and 3 together, took the wrong crack and found myself under a horrible overhang with no feet and 1 good hold with nothing above it I could find. Clipped to the now rusty nut wire and a so-so .3 cam I gave it a few attempts before backing off and moving back down and over to the original route (found an old piton which resembled a Cadbury Flake chocolate bar)
The nut was above the roof in a vertical crack and stuck for all time, just wondering if anyone has any details on this piece?
If that nut could talk I'd say it has a pretty good story to tell!
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27-Jan-2015 9:09:59 PM
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On 25/01/2015 dtb wrote:
>Hi all,
>Just wondering if anyone knows any details about an old stuck nut on the
>third pitch of Tierry Le Fronde down on Frenchmans cap??
>
>Its not the 3rd pitch proper but the crack to the right of the original
>route. I got lost (surprise, surprise!) and ended up stringing 2 and 3
>together, took the wrong crack and found myself under a horrible overhang
>with no feet and 1 good hold with nothing above it I could find. Clipped
>to the now rusty nut wire and a so-so .3 cam I gave it a few attempts before
>backing off and moving back down and over to the original route (found
>an old piton which resembled a Cadbury Flake chocolate bar)
>
>The nut was above the roof in a vertical crack and stuck for all time,
>just wondering if anyone has any details on this piece?
>
>If that nut could talk I'd say it has a pretty good story to tell!
>
Pretty sure I did exactly the same thing as you in 2002 and have a faint memory of that nut back then.
Great climb that one. straightforward day out compared to the other stuff.
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27-Jan-2015 10:39:17 PM
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dtb, are you able to expand on your beta a bit? I have an interest ...
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28-Jan-2015 11:16:34 AM
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Wow. If you're just back, I'm surprised you even touched rock given weather (snow etc).
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28-Jan-2015 11:30:27 AM
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On 27/01/2015 gfdonc wrote:
>dtb, are you able to expand on your beta a bit? I have an interest ...
Yep, GFDonc has been speaking with a squeaky voice for some time now
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28-Jan-2015 12:01:19 PM
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PGS, you mean, THAT was the straightforward one,hahaha. Glad the weather didnt allow us to attempt any of the longer ones! Did you pull the roof or back off? I ran out of gear and wasnt about to risk falling on that wire!
Such an amazing climb though, pretty keen to go back when the weather is more settled.
GRANGRUMP, we had 10 days from drop off to pick up. 4 days walking, 32kgs each, 7 days of rain, 2 days of snow and 1 day of climbing. We were lucky we had the time to wait it out, not the best time to go but my mates work schedule dictated the dates. Seeing waterfalls on every aspect of the mountain was something I wont forget!
GFDONC, I'll PM you some pics once I go through all the pics from the trip. Basically, I have no idea where the first pitch starts, we started from the top of the scree chute, were too far left for the first pitch but managed to traverse to the correct belay, missed the spike on the second belay and did 2 and 3 together, sustained like they say (P3 def follows the centre crack, NOT the right hand crack. Obvious traverse on P4 wasnt that obvious and we traversed under the roof (pretty sure we went too high). P5 you have 2 cracks, the left looked less loose but the traverse right under the roof was interesting and the rope drag meant I couldnt keep going (right crack is more straightforward but it looked loose as hell). I belaid on the ledge above the traverse and Rich finished the last 15mtrs to the summit.
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29-Jan-2015 6:50:00 PM
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We did Sydney route the day before, TLF was straightforward EXCEPT for getting off-route at the spot you mention. I reversed and got back on line.
I'd love to do it again, it finishes up a big slot thing doesn't it?
Hope you had something to read in the hut!
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