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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Similar routes to BBB?


Zarb

10-Dec-2014
1:17:19 PM

Ello all,

Just wondering if there were any recommendations for climbs similar to Bunny Bucket in terms of adventure and a good day out? Difficulty equal to or easier than. I feel like at the moment BBB is my limit for a day of that length.

On my list is Tom Thumb, Sweet Dreams, and there was one other grade 17 in the Bluies whos name currently escapes me...

I'm looking for climbs in the Blue Mountains area (Inc Wolgans).


Drake

10-Dec-2014
11:54:28 PM

Wolgans has a few, particularly linking Secret Swinger on the lower cliff of old baldy to Excalibur or Scimitar on the upper cliff. I highly recommend them- these are trad 17/18.

In the Bluies proper, try Bellbird Wall (18?), Whymper (slightly harder at grade 19, but excellent), and a few at Narrowneck (Fuddy Duddy- 15, Cave Climb- 13, and Tol-16). Tom Thumb and Sweet Dreams are okay and worth doing for the adventure aspect, but the climbing is quite average.


Zarb

11-Dec-2014
7:41:04 AM

Cool, I think Bellbird Wall was the 17 I was thinking about.


BlankSlab

11-Dec-2014
9:57:38 AM

Dirty Rotten Pig comes to mind although i haven't do it at grade 19

simey

11-Dec-2014
10:44:57 AM

On 10/12/2014 Drake wrote:
>Wolgans has a few, particularly linking Secret Swinger on the lower cliff
>of old baldy to Excalibur or Scimitar on the upper cliff. I highly recommend
>them- these are trad 17/18.

Excalibur is awesome (watch out for that giant crazy eagle that loves to attack climbers). I thought Secret Swinger was loose, poorly protected and quite dangerous, even though it had some merit as an approach pitch to Excalibur. Is it just me or do other climbers think Secret Swinger is dangerous?

>In the Bluies proper, try Bellbird Wall (18?), Whymper (slightly harder
>at grade 19, but excellent), and a few at Narrowneck (Fuddy Duddy- 15,
>Cave Climb- 13, and Tol-16). Tom Thumb and Sweet Dreams are okay and worth
>doing for the adventure aspect, but the climbing is quite average.

Fuddy Duddy definitely packs a punch on all its pitches at grade 15. It is a memorable outing, but not always well-protected.

The climbing on Tom Thumb is very non-descript and forgettable, but it is in a nice part of the world.

Nick Clow

11-Dec-2014
11:12:33 AM

> Is it just me or do other climbers think Secret Swinger is dangerous?

Nope, not just you.

The two most popular routes on Lower Baldy are probably No Complications and Secret Swinger. Both are a bit tough for their advertised grades because the ground below them has eroded. Each has a hard start consisting of a jump to a giant flexing choss-jug and heel-hooking wrestling match, the difficulty of which is disproportionate to the rest of the climb. One day one of these jugs will come off and someone will have an accident.

If I were going to do routes on Upper Baldy I would instead walk straight up to the half-way ledge. The quality of the rock and climbs on Lower Baldy is poor and you will not be missing much. I have personal experience of quite a lot of 'Ghoul' falling down.

Nick Clow

11-Dec-2014
11:17:58 AM

Mirrorball at Pearces Pass to the lunch ledge. Only one pitch is 19 with a couple of well-protected moves at the grade.


Drake

11-Dec-2014
1:18:11 PM

>The two most popular routes on Lower Baldy are probably No Complications and Secret Swinger. Both are a bit tough for their advertised grades because the ground below them has eroded. Each has a hard start consisting of a jump to a giant flexing choss-jug and heel-hooking wrestling match, the difficulty of which is disproportionate to the rest of the climb.

This most certainly does not describe the start to Secret Swinger. Yes the start is tough for 17, but it's a delicate thin start in a fingercrack, not a wild swing to loose jugs. Yes portions of SS are chossy, but I was able to find good protection just before and after each of these sections. It's sandstone in the wolgan after all- what do you expect?

Estey

11-Dec-2014
3:01:34 PM

On 11/12/2014 Drake wrote:
>>The two most popular routes on Lower Baldy are probably No Complications
>and Secret Swinger. Both are a bit tough for their advertised grades because
>the ground below them has eroded. Each has a hard start consisting of a
>jump to a giant flexing choss-jug and heel-hooking wrestling match, the
>difficulty of which is disproportionate to the rest of the climb.
>
>This most certainly does not describe the start to Secret Swinger. Yes
>the start is tough for 17, but it's a delicate thin start in a fingercrack,
>not a wild swing to loose jugs. Yes portions of SS are chossy, but I was
>able to find good protection just before and after each of these sections.
>It's sandstone in the wolgan after all- what do you expect?

I'm guessing the route with the jump to the jug and heel-hook Nick refers to is actually Room to Move, the third trade 16 on Old Baldy Lower.

I have to agree with Nick and Simey. I found the 2nd pitch of Secret Swinger unnerving, particularly the bit where you climb out of the choss cave. My instincts told me this bit wasn't really attached to the rest of the cliff, a feeling not helped by the fact that half the route next door has actually fallen down. Fun climbing but take care.

mikllaw

11-Dec-2014
3:49:21 PM

At sublime point do the Illiad with cynics united pitch 1
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/main-area/area/321001125

and for a tougher 19/20 do The Wind Cries Mary at The Fortress
http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/The+Fortress

martym

11-Dec-2014
9:06:43 PM

If you want a fun day on multipitch, try doing two in a row - Mr Bigg & Honey Rider at James Bond wall in Megalong Valley; 6 fun pitches.
There's Rift at a soft 19 followed by 17 carrot gold at Heathcliff.
Definitely give Mirror ball pinnacle a go, if you've done Bunny then you can do it; very similar without the bushbash scramble.

If you want really long bolted low grade climbing, try a holiday to Europe in early summer, I'm not being facetious!

simey

11-Dec-2014
9:47:55 PM

On 11/12/2014 Estey wrote:
>I have to agree with Nick and Simey. I found the 2nd pitch of Secret Swinger
>unnerving, particularly the bit where you climb out of the choss cave.
>My instincts told me this bit wasn't really attached to the rest of the
>cliff, a feeling not helped by the fact that half the route next door has
>actually fallen down.

That was my recollection too. I only followed it but there didn't seem to be any way to make it safer.


pmonks

11-Dec-2014
10:39:26 PM

Margarine Ridge at Mt Hay. Lower grade (13), but longer and more involved than many of the other routes on this thread. I personally think it's one of the best adventure routes in the Blueys.

mikllaw

12-Dec-2014
9:00:33 AM

I found Marg Ridge pretty run out on choss, one of the most dangerous routes I've done in the Grose.


Duang Daunk

12-Dec-2014
9:23:11 AM

On 11/12/2014 simey wrote:
>On 11/12/2014 Estey wrote:
>>I have to agree with Nick and Simey. I found the 2nd pitch of Secret
>Swinger unnerving, particularly the bit where you climb out of the choss cave.
>>My instincts told me this bit wasn't really attached to the rest of the
>>cliff, a feeling not helped by the fact that half the route next door has
>>actually fallen down.
>
>That was my recollection too. I only followed it but there didn't seem to be any way to make it safer.
>
simey, simey, simey (shakes bowed head in hands), for an aging climber you are losing your touch bro.
Ya do remember it is the bluies don't you? And now your recollections are coming back you also remember the quaint practice of painting climb initials at the starts like you used to do?
So like ODH (OodlesDownHere) suggests on anotha shred,
On 19/11/2014 rich wrote:
>>See a loose block, put a big white chalk cross on it..
>That'll stop it falling. I've never seen a falling rock with a white cross on it.
Easy fix bro. Just take your latest graffiti paint can with you and make it safe as you go.
If you are missing your lycra, make it a fluoro paint can.

An gigkle, on Marg Ridge you need to rememba to carry rour retracta seatbelt pro bro.

Sheesh, old climbers an their memories.


tnd

12-Dec-2014
10:39:16 AM

Cat's in the Cradle, three pitch 19 (all but one move 17/18) at Mt Boyce.

maxdacat

12-Dec-2014
11:35:32 AM

On 12/12/2014 mikllaw wrote:
>I found Marg Ridge pretty run out on choss, one of the most dangerous
>routes I've done in the Grose.

I can't remember much about the climbing but it's a great bush bash :p


Zarb

12-Dec-2014
2:32:16 PM

Cool I'll check out all the recommendations.
We honestly didn't mind the bush bash mid-pitches on BBB, it gave us a chance to practice our simul climbing and kiwi coils :D

Mount Banks looks mighty impressive from the walk off. Is there anything worth while on there? Or should I stay the hell away?

maxdacat

15-Dec-2014
9:59:12 AM

On 12/12/2014 Zarb wrote:
>Mount Banks looks mighty impressive from the walk off. Is there anything
>worth while on there? Or should I stay the hell away?
>

There's the Original Route (350m 13) which I haven't done....sounds like a bit of an adventure.

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/mount-banks

mikllaw

15-Dec-2014
11:15:30 AM

There's a guide to Mt banks on the Sydney Rockies site
http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Mount+Banks

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