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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Bolt failure at Muline in the grampians.
rockwarzz
20-Oct-2014
8:56:46 AM
I spent a few weeks in the in the gramps with my brother. On a few occasions we ran into some loose bolts. Typically this isn't a problem and we can easily finger tighten most loose nuts. Not the case though, on Flying Duck. After catching my brother on every bolt up until it joins with Eye of the Tiger. I gave it a try and the first time I fell on the 4th bolt, the nut flew off the end of the bolt, freeing the hanger. It was only another meter and a half extra. I'm fine, I didn't deck. Could someone pass on to the gentlemen who do the bolting/ maintenance?
argos44
20-Oct-2014
9:10:55 AM
Buy a spanner/shifter/wrench.

robbie
20-Oct-2014
9:15:19 AM
Try a thread locker product named Loctite, alternatively try nylock self locking nuts. Both methods resistance to threads undoing.
Dr Nick
20-Oct-2014
9:45:56 AM
Would a pair of half nuts tightened against each other (or even a pair of full width nuts if there's enough thread) be a better option?
mikllaw
20-Oct-2014
10:56:25 AM
Put in proper bolts

Pat
20-Oct-2014
12:01:06 PM
Perhaps climb something where you don't have to be caught on every bolt, that might reduce nuts loosening a bit?

nmonteith
20-Oct-2014
5:17:08 PM
On 20/10/2014 rockwarzz wrote:
>Not the case though, on Flying
>Duck. After catching my brother on every bolt up until it joins with Eye
>of the Tiger. I gave it a try and the first time I fell on the 4th bolt,
>the nut flew off the end of the bolt, freeing the hanger.

Is this one of the original bolts on one of the older routes - or one of the new bolts on the linkup section?
Kp
20-Oct-2014
8:06:01 PM
I reckon it's about time that expansion bolts are phased out of use in the gramps. They are constantly in need of maintenance.....

gordoste
21-Oct-2014
3:41:45 PM
On 20/10/2014 Pat wrote:
>Perhaps climb something where you don't have to be caught on every bolt,
>that might reduce nuts loosening a bit?

He's just raising the valid point that these bolts have drawbacks. It's not like he came on and said "you guys are a bunch of negligent idiots".

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23-Oct-2014
2:47:07 PM
On 20/10/2014 Kp wrote:
>I reckon it's about time that expansion bolts are phased out of use in
>the gramps. They are constantly in need of maintenance.....

Yeah. Bring back carrots!
Heh, heh, heh.
:-P

harold
5-Nov-2014
3:04:16 PM
The weekend just gone, a friend of mine of mine found the hanger left at the bottom of the route and put it back with a spanner also found at the crag. Should be all good for now.
Wendy
5-Nov-2014
4:26:10 PM
On 5/11/2014 harold wrote:
>The weekend just gone, a friend of mine of mine found the hanger left at
>the bottom of the route and put it back with a spanner also found at the
>crag. Should be all good for now.

Now, I know it's reassuring to just tighten up the hanger on loose bolts, but in expansions, does the loose bolt/hanger actually effect the expansion bit as well? Like, without the bolt holding it it at the appropriate force from that mythical torque wrench, could same movement that loosens the hanger tend to wiggle the expansion bit and possibly un-wedge it?
mikllaw
5-Nov-2014
8:06:49 PM
they will keep loosening.

harold
5-Nov-2014
10:33:14 PM
I imagine being in a roof traverse ( or perhaps any traverse for that matter), the falling climber swings left, right, back and forth, the hanger gets rotated left, right, most likely will unscrew the nut no matter how good the rock is. As others say, loctite may stop this. I wouldn't know myself. A straight vertical fall this won't happen.

harold
5-Nov-2014
10:50:23 PM
I can't imagine the bolt, the wedge or the sleeve would be rotating in the hole. They certainly don't rotate when tightening with a spanner so don't think that's an issue. I think in soft rock the hole just wears out and so with each fall the bolt gets pulled out a little. I would guess the rock at Muline is pretty solid.

On another note, quite a lot of non stainless expansions out there. They looked ok but still...didn't inspire my confidence.
Wendy
6-Nov-2014
6:42:37 AM
Red Rocks, Nevada, had some amazing expansions, where they must have loosened and been tightened enough they had worn a hole into the rock with the bolt head and hanger because thewhole thing was so recessed you could barely clip the hanger.
mikllaw
6-Nov-2014
3:31:40 PM
If a bolt unscrews because of a swinging fall you might be able to fix it.

If a bolt loosens otherwise (crushing rock, stretching shaft due to leverage), it will always continue to loosen despite what tightening you do, it's not the nut rotating loose, it's that the shaft isn't 'pulling inwards' on the nut enough to keep it tight .
Kp
6-Nov-2014
3:35:40 PM
The rock at muline is not solid!! It has a hard layer then softish rock underneath.

harold
6-Nov-2014
4:06:38 PM
On 6/11/2014 Kp wrote:
>The rock at muline is not solid!! It has a hard layer then softish rock
>underneath.
Argh, don't tell me that. It's not as if the huge overhang and rusty dynabolts didn't terrify me enough already.

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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