Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Sydney - Single Pitch for 13yr old newbie
dtb
20-Sep-2014
9:58:54 AM
Hi all,

My nephew is coming up to Sydney to stay for a week of fun and adventure. I want to introduce him to rock climbing but am struggling to think of a suitable crag, can anyone help!!
Something around the 8-13, single pitch and easy access to the top to set the anchors as it will just be me and him.
There are a few at Bangor I might put him on but i was thinking something up the Blue mnts if possible.
We will be travelling around all week doing things so travel isnt really an issue.
He is excited as hell and i really want to give him that awesome first experience.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20-Sep-2014
2:18:00 PM
Barrenjoey at north Palm Beach, is a location that meets your criteria.

Mt York in the blueys is another that would meet your needs.

rodw
20-Sep-2014
4:00:01 PM
The stables and otherland and are all very easy to set top ropes on in Sydney, though grades slightly higher than your bracket range
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/area/13079365
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/area/13079389

The soft parade up in the blueys has easy top access to for top roping..
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/mount-victoria-area/area/243142314

Plenty of grades in the range indicated.

Dr Nick
20-Sep-2014
7:52:22 PM
Dead easy stuff out the tip of Wahroonga rocks, ranging from about 5 to about 14, but if you're down south then maybe something at the Cathedral - Dr Claw may be able to suggest something. I find the big issue with Sydney climbs is there's often a reach problem at the start or finish which makes an otherwise excellent kids' route into a real disappointment (which reminds me, I must get the kids to do the first top rope ascent of the climb I found near the local netball courts)

The other option would be to duck down to Mt Keira and do something like Nursery. If they're OK on that there might be something with views on the South Face. The last time I was there there was a printed and laminated guide tied to a bolt underneath that section of the crag!

E. Wells
21-Sep-2014
9:07:34 AM
I am a big fan of Abseil slab / Eyrie area at Mt Boyce. It requires abseiling but you could easily lower him then top belay also. Sweet Irish is a great route for easiness/exposure , especially heading up Old England then stepping right above boat-bow feature. Only requires a #3 cam and a few wires though as a single (50m) pitch all your draws need to be long. Other options that come to mind (for easy t/r set up) is Lischenbak or Crackle/Pop at Mt York. Angular Crack at Mt Piddington is accessible from top for T/R (high chain anchor) but without knowledge of trails may be easier just to lead it. All of these climbs cop heaps of sun so cover up! The most convenient of these suggestions would be Mt York though also the most popular for those grades. Its hit and miss , sometimes its busy , sometimes its empty , its always super hot weather.

rodw
21-Sep-2014
1:46:30 PM
The question is with an newbie 13yo would you lead anything trusting him to belay?..thus the easy top rope access question rather than just good low grade climbs.
surfziggy
21-Sep-2014
9:35:16 PM
Dam Cliffs
East Lindfield
Barrenjoey
Berowra

All good spots with Kids. Just been having the kind of same conversation with Rod about this. My two are 5 & 7 and the place they've enjoyed the most is the Dam cliffs.
martym
21-Sep-2014
11:29:47 PM
Bangor is the only place I can think of for guaranteed beginner climbing, and even then you'd be surprised.
All the "easier" stuff at Barrenjoey has a challenging start. If he's athletic, he should e ok, and I've found that crag is quite exciting for newcomers.
I find berowra is either too short and not interesting, or too hard for beginners. You really need to be confident at 17 or so to climb something decent at berowra..
Mt York - even the grade 10 slab that moves into a chimney has thrown some beginners, never mind the overhang start on snap crackle and pop..
The Eyrie is way too epic for what you've described... A 40m top belay? Hope he's ok with heights..

Dam cliffs probably ticks the boxes; but it's a LONG way out for maybe 2 of 3 climbs at your grade? If it was summer and you could go for a swim, sure... But it was 15 degrees today..
And considering they're only 10m cliffs, might as well take him to Bangor.
If you're confident enough - solo some of the cave and set up for a bit of roof climbing, it'll blow his mind.
Otherwise Barrenjoey is a cool day out even if you don't get any climbing done.

rodw
22-Sep-2014
7:43:09 AM
Ill mention it again if your up the mountains and want a lot of easy grade stuff you can top rope - soft parade is the pick by far.

deadbudgy
22-Sep-2014
9:12:50 AM
Soft Parade or The Dams
surfziggy
22-Sep-2014
10:48:02 AM
Yeah, but two or three climbs will probably be enough unless they really show some natural talent or are extremely strong. They'll probably be buggered after one climb.
Dam cliffs is a bit of a trek though.
The challenging start bit is a common problem with Sydney sandstone, I often find the first moves of climbs the hardest but then I'm a short arse at 5'7". I've found that my oldest daughter Daisy can often get up a route if we give her a bit of assistance with the rope for the first couple of moves of just give her a foot up artificial holds.
At Berowra cenotaph corner is an easy intro for young ones and then at a bit harder there's Marsala or Taylor Made if they're feeling stronger.
At the 'joey Carrie Bradshaw (but they might need a help to do the first move) and Ikon (same again). My 5 year old has done most of Ikon with help for the first few moves. Don't forget that kids hands are smaller and therefore holds are proportionately bigger.
Dr Nick
22-Sep-2014
12:32:32 PM
To plug Wahroonga again (though I'm not saying it's perfect by any means), you've got a half decent view to the north over the bush, and no moves that can't be done by a ~8 yr old. You'll need a couple of hangers for the anchor bolts, with about 4m of slings because I wanted to keep them discreet so they're under a rock. The other options is a longish anchor rope that can be run back to trees 10m or so back.

It's also only a short drive to Berowra.

pedro.c
22-Sep-2014
6:50:45 PM
If you ask my kids where they want to climb in the Bluies, as we did Saturday, you'll always get the same answer, Dam Cliffs! Too cold for swimming? Not if you're 9 or 11. Careful he may want you to join him cause the cliff jump requires company.

My first climbing experience was at Barrenjoey, stumbling along the cliff top, dangling ropes of climbs. It's good for that. There's bouldering on the beach (kids love it) and more swimming!

Mt Boyce is good for what you want except all the other suggestions have 10-15m cliff faces instead of 50m. You could always lower him on one rope while he abseils the other (kids love abseiling too) then bring him straight back up. You need to know how to set up a pully for hauling hard bits. Lots of potential for problems here...

I've never fumbled around the top of Mt York setting up top ropes. I guess it's a lot like Mt Boyce with less height and being able to walk to the bottom reduces the risks.

Let us know how it goes.
Dtb
24-Sep-2014
9:46:52 PM
Hey all,
Thanks for the suggestions, we ended up leaving that afternoon so Ive only just seen all the replies.
We ended up going to Dam cliffs today as we were on our way back from 3 days up at Dunns swamp (which by the way has some awesome easy stuff with great trad anchors if you search for them, really good beginner top rope stuff in the 10-12mtr range!)
He loved Dam cliffs, we started on Hesitation 10 where he did a couple of laps, Unknown 14, tested him a bit and a few assisted dynos got him there and finally, Truancy officer 20, hahahaha, he had a ball and was throwing himself up at every hold he could. It was awesome seeing kid with no fear or concept of grades just going for each hold anyway he could. Considering he has only been climbing for 3 days in total, the kids got some moxie!!
I can see a future climbing partner when I need someone to drag my old butt up a wall.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints