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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Spain advice
mikllaw
4-Sep-2014
9:58:43 AM
I've got a friend heading off to Spain next week. I'm guessing it's still hot there and he won't have a car, interested in mid-grade (18-22) sport and particularly long routes. Any recommendations?

shortman
4-Sep-2014
10:13:25 AM
Email Cam and Tracey....they did some long routes in Spain about those grades. She is OS atm.

The good Dr
4-Sep-2014
10:44:53 AM
Montserrat - Camping up on the hill avail.
Calpe - Penon d'Ifac
Montanejos - Can get there by bus. There is a climbing refugio in town, hot springs and about 2,000 routes on great limestone from single to multi pitch.

Eduardo Slabofvic
4-Sep-2014
10:49:10 AM
I'm in the process of planning a trip for this time next year in northern Spain. I will be going to Montserrat, a little way out from Barcelona. I've climbed there before in the early '90s and had a ball. Lots of long routes, up to 10 pitched in some places, a big back country area for getting away from the crowds. Really wacky conglomerate rock that will hone your decision making skills.

Newer routes (back then) were sport bolted, whilst the older routes were extremely run out (1 or two pieces per pitch). I can only assume (hope) that its still like this. You can get a train from Barcelona to the base of the mount, then a cable car up to the monastery, where there is (was) a campground and a small shop. Its a bit of a circus around the monastery, but pretty easy to escape from. There is (was) a small hut a bit higher up, but it was closed when I was there. It had a bit of a reputation for filth, which is why I think it was shut. It might have been spruced up by now.

You can also go and hit Barcelona pretty easy from here, I think its only 50km away. One of the best cities to have city fun in.

I'm interested in finding out about places to climb in the Pyrenees, both sides of the border. I'm looking for multi-pitch areas with stuff in the 18 to 22 range. I wont have a rack, so will need bolted routes, with a preference for anything other than polished limestone. I'll by cycle touring, so having villages within shooting distance would be an advantage.

Thanks in advance.
lost tazmaniac
4-Sep-2014
11:34:16 AM
RE: Monserrat- there is also a Refugio down from the Monastery. There's a couple who come in the weekends and cook.. 2 Years ago you could hire a rack.. lots of slings for wrapping around the rocks.. :-) the Refugio has a great log of guidebooks for the area.. even a place to cook your own stuff. loved it.. and was reasoinable rates..
jdb
4-Sep-2014
12:00:27 PM
The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain
maxdacat
4-Sep-2014
1:49:32 PM
If he has looking for partners and wants a good mix of routes I would recommend the Orange House in Alicante. They may be able to sort an airport pick up. Once there plenty of people will have wheels.

trog
4-Sep-2014
2:24:53 PM
If you want to stay right up on the plateau at Montserrat there are a few old hermitages scattered around Montserrat which have been taken over by climbers too... there was one , I think not too far from Cavall Bernat, which was pretty plush for a bivy - it had a wood stove and vegie patch a few years ago.

Sleeping in the carpark of the monastery was tolerated too.

Montenjos was not bad, but not as memorable as montserrat, but has some decent routes in the grades you're after.
martym
5-Sep-2014
11:22:08 AM
Did someone say Montserrat?

It's the only place I climbed in Spain - and we were there in November when the season is almost over (we were the only ones in the campground) and it rained a lot.. but was still awesome.
Some sectors are only accessilbe by car - but there's tons of climbing around the campground and monastery; they have guidebooks in the campground and the guys there know a lot (though their english isn't great, and were a bit grumpy.. maybe it was the rain)

Doc
5-Sep-2014
4:59:47 PM
I'm in Barcelona right now! Weather is warm and a bit humid, 26-31 degrees. Hottest time of day is afternoon. Went to Monserrat yesterday by train, it's easy, no car required. Mind you, after driving into Barcelona I wouldn't advise driving!! The pt is straight forward. Saw lots of bolted lines that looked great. I only brought my harness on this trip as off for some via ferrata in Italy. The climbing at Monserrat looks awesome and I wished I'd brought gear and had a little more time. Have to come back!
We were in the clouds a bit yesterday and temp on the mount was 16. Enjoy and post trip report.
Colg
5-Sep-2014
5:20:40 PM
Hire a car and get on some limestone forget the conglomerate unless you head to riglos.Montserrat is a great place but the climbing gets a little boring after a few days. Try some long sports routes at places like the Terradets or Vilanova De Meia long sports routes up to 500m. Mallorca is also great. Really Spain has to much rock and they will have a great time.
lis
6-Sep-2014
5:30:39 AM
Yes, go to Riglos. Catch the bus to Huesca or Zaragoza then the man peddle powered train to crag. There are shady routes or start early. Refugio in the village or maybe you could sleep at the station/stop/shelter (?). Go to Riglos.

JMK
6-Sep-2014
8:49:39 AM
Pont d espagne has granite multi pitch. Beautiful valley, town not far. Not far from Argeles Gazost which is "base" of col d tourmalet .we did couple multi pitch and then several single pitches routes. 6a was very spaced but 6b+ had heaps of bolts. I had a small rack to supplement but did not really use it as only place to put gear happened to be near the bolts.
tskinner
8-Sep-2014
6:43:46 AM
On 4/09/2014 mikllaw wrote:
>I've got a friend heading off to Spain next week. I'm guessing it's still
>hot there and he won't have a car, interested in mid-grade (18-22) sport
>and particularly long routes. Any recommendations?

Hi Michael,

As it is still pretty hot over here especially for long multi pitches, I would probably go with the suggestion of Montserrat or at least keep it up North way. Many of the cliffs really do require a car to get to and from but others you could probably try - Siurana. Has a campground and you can walk to various areas. Lots of climbers so easy to pick up a partner. El Chorro in the South (where we are heading to in about a week and half) can be accessed by train and it is possible to walk to a number of the areas. Lots of climbers around so again can pick up partners or hitch a ride to the cliffs further away. But as I said - very hot. We tend to do short routes even though we love multipitches. I'm sure your friend will have an awesome time. Our second visit and even in this heat, we love it.

Cheers,
Tracey

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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