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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 4 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 88
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Halls Gap (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Where's Crock Wall?
BA
21/06/2014
3:26:18 PM
Wall Of China

SPRUNG originally 20m 21 (Argus Annual 1998).
We agree with 20m 21: give it **. Mentz - Tempest guide quotes 25m 22 * (their * = “very good” so actually **). The route ends at a 2 ring lowering station, and there’s lots of rope on the ground after you’ve lowered off – hence 20m not 25m. I flashed the route on-sight. It is not 22. Baxter (1999) agrees! The pockets are not “a fraction too sharp for complete enjoyment” as claimed in the Mentz - Tempest guide. There are 4 fixed hangers plus a fifth fixed piece of gear, a ring bolt.

HONKERS 18m 18 is the route referred to disparagingly in the Mentz - Tempest guide (italics p. 167). It does seem a little close to Tartrazine from its left and Checkpoint Charlie on its right! (Where do you draw the line?)

PEKING DUCK 18m 19 (Argus Annual 1998) is referred in Mentz - Tempest as “Another route (18?) …” p. 167. We didn’t do it though, so can’t give an opinion on the grade.


WELL HUNG does not have a dead tree at its start (see update)(Baxter doesn’t mention it). A dead tree is lying against the boulders nearby – I expect it has fallen over. The start of Well Hung is the crux, it’s quite difficult for 18 (Baxter gives it 19), the pro is very small (RPs, Microwires) and the landing (between boulders) is poor. Nevertheless the remainder of the route redeems this. Not worth a star.

Update mentions “bolts” when they are “fixed hangers”. This applies to Black Russian (1FH), Checkpoint Charlie (1FH), Sprung (4FH plus one Ring Bolt [RB] presumably added since 1st ascent), Blue Sky Mining (4FH not 4BR). Peking Duck mentions 1 BR in the description (Argus Annual 98) and this is true.

SACRED GROUND (update) mentions 1BR but this has been augmented by a ring bolt next to it.

BLUE SKY MINING (update) is described as “25m left of Checkpoint Charlie”. This is incorrect. It would be about 8m left. (It should have been 25m left of the other Simon Carter route, Black Russian.

CHIN CHIMMINY (update) is described “just left of Fire Dragon”. Incorrect. It would be about 15m left of Fire Dragon. Nevertheless, the new text should be “12m left of Little Bourke Street”.

CHINESE TAKE-AWAY is similarly described (update) as “near (!) Chin Chimminy”. (Such precision!). It would be about 15m left Chin Chimminy. It would be helpful to describe it as (say) … “The prominent, steep right-facing corner line just right of the left end of the cliff, 15m left of Chin Chimminy.”
BA
21/06/2014
3:26:49 PM
Wall Of China

SPRUNG originally 20m 21 (Argus Annual 1998).
We agree with 20m 21: give it **. Mentz - Tempest guide quotes 25m 22 * (their * = “very good” so actually **). The route ends at a 2 ring lowering station, and there’s lots of rope on the ground after you’ve lowered off – hence 20m not 25m. I flashed the route on-sight. It is not 22. Baxter (1999) agrees! The pockets are not “a fraction too sharp for complete enjoyment” as claimed in the Mentz - Tempest guide. There are 4 fixed hangers plus a fifth fixed piece of gear, a ring bolt.

HONKERS 18m 18 is the route referred to disparagingly in the Mentz - Tempest guide (italics p. 167). It does seem a little close to Tartrazine from its left and Checkpoint Charlie on its right! (Where do you draw the line?)

PEKING DUCK 18m 19 (Argus Annual 1998) is referred in Mentz - Tempest as “Another route (18?) …” p. 167. We didn’t do it though, so can’t give an opinion on the grade.

WELL HUNG does not have a dead tree at its start (see update)(Baxter doesn’t mention it). A dead tree is lying against the boulders nearby – I expect it has fallen over. The start of Well Hung is the crux, it’s quite difficult for 18 (Baxter gives it 19), the pro is very small (RPs, Microwires) and the landing (between boulders) is poor. Nevertheless the remainder of the route redeems this. Not worth a star.

Update mentions “bolts” when they are “fixed hangers”. This applies to Black Russian (1FH), Checkpoint Charlie (1FH), Sprung (4FH plus one Ring Bolt [RB] presumably added since 1st ascent), Blue Sky Mining (4FH not 4BR). Peking Duck mentions 1 BR in the description (Argus Annual 98) and this is true.

SACRED GROUND (update) mentions 1BR but this has been augmented by a ring bolt next to it.

BLUE SKY MINING (update) is described as “25m left of Checkpoint Charlie”. This is incorrect. It would be about 8m left. (It should have been 25m left of the other Simon Carter route, Black Russian.

CHIN CHIMMINY (update) is described “just left of Fire Dragon”. Incorrect. It would be about 15m left of Fire Dragon. Nevertheless, the new text should be “12m left of Little Bourke Street”.

CHINESE TAKE-AWAY is similarly described (update) as “near (!) Chin Chimminy”. (Such precision!). It would be about 15m left Chin Chimminy. It would be helpful to describe it as (say) … “The prominent, steep right-facing corner line just right of the left end of the cliff, 15m left of Chin Chimminy.”

THE IRON ROOSTER (V.C.C. New Routes 1999) is described as a) “Start at the chimney 3m right of Tibet”. The chimney right of Tibet is Chin Chimminy. (Baxter correct.) (It is more than 3m right of Tibet, probably 6m or so.) b) 27m seems way too long. The cliff here is shorter at this end (not 25m!), so all the climb lengths have been over-estimated.

MAO 25m 17 is described in Mentz - Tempest p. 168. (This is the route described in Argus Annual 1998 with the missing bold in the title). Great route, gets ** from me. Way harder than 17! More like 19, A hedge against inflation? The “step L” at the bulge is the crux. (Baxter also quoted gr 17.)

Update has climbs listed out of order, namely:
Chin Chimminy
The Good Soldier Schweik
Little Bourke Street
Fire Dragon
Rickshaw
Kung Fu
The topo shows the correct order

KUNG FU (update) description is very misleading now other routes have been added. Suggest “Just left of Blue Sky Mining the cliff is broken by a pair of off-widths behind a large detached block. Kung Fu takes the one on the right.” Since one approaches R to L along the Wall Of China.

SPRUNG does have excellent natural protection, right next to two of the bolts. (As mentioned in Mentz - Tempest guide.) (It might be 22 if you had to hang around placing it.)

BA
21/06/2014
3:29:52 PM
Here's my version of Wades map that accompanied the above beta.

BA
21/06/2014
3:35:25 PM
THE UNDERWORLD

A rather dank, southwest-facing cliff. It is easily approached along the track from the Wonderland Turntable to The Wall Of China (5-10 minutes away). When the track emerges from The Grand Canyon it goes over a long rocky outcrop and then becomes sandy. Turn left here and walk down to the creek and up the other side to the cliff (5 minutes from the track).

Dick Tracy 25m 18
Strenuous and exciting, with good architecture. Towards the left hand end of the cliff is a corner leading to a roof. Climb this then traverse right towards the arête. Now climb steeply up and slightly left into a groove and onwards. Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter. 28.4.90

Dan The Man 25m 17
The obvious tiered right leading crack. Up the short left facing corner beside the block, then traverse left into the line. Up the line with a steep finish. Stephen Hamilton, Nick Tapp. 22.4.90

No Strings Attached 20m 12
Climb the crack 3m right of the broken corner just right of Dan The Man. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter. 28.4.90

Roast Lapin 20m 12
The climb takes the crack around the arête to the right of Dan The Man, just left of the scrubby corner. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, Stephen Hamilton. 28.4.90
BA
21/06/2014
3:44:20 PM
LOWER WURZLEGUMMAGE WALL

This cliff gives reasonably good, middle-grade climbing. It may now receive the greater attention it deserves. The cliff is clearly visible from the Sundial road 200m west of the turntable. Walk from here down to Devil Creek and up to the cliff, encountering some scrub and a subsidiary outcrop below the cliff. Cliff faces south. Walking time 15 minutes. GR 341853

Time from Car: About 25 minutes.
Descent: The best is at the left hand end (the right, facing out) of the cliff. An abseil will probably deliver you back to the base of the climb just as easily.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Below and right of the main part of the above cliff is a large cliff with a prominent line almost in the centre of it. Originally approached by walking straight in from the Sundial Road when directly opposite it.

Mormon Tabernacle Choir 33m 17
Sustained and attractive climbing. Start up corner and hand-crack in right wall 7m left of Binnijjg. From top of corner, step left and pull over bulge above to enter groove above. Up this and line directly above it. Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher. 21.3.98

Binnijig 37m 14
Up the line for 13m to a large ledge. Move back to the line and up with difficulty past the bush. Continue up steeply to a tree belay. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. 8.4.73

*Steep Trick 33m 18
Steep and sustained climbing with powerful architecture. Recommended. Start up undercut hand-crack 5m right of Binnijig. Corner from right end of ledge. Left for 2m in horizontal break. Up and right over overhang to foot of final, overhanging corner. Wildly up this in exposed position. Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter. 21.3.98

Wallace & Grommet 33m 17
Needs cleaning; some loose rock. Steep wall 20m right of Steep Trick and 1.5m lefft of huge block against foot of cliff. From ledge, step up right on to loose block, then up and slightly left until you can traverse left to foot of prominent corner-crack. Up this. Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter 21-3-98

UPPER WURZLEGUMMAGE WALL

Not as good as Lower Wurzlegummage Wall. Park on the Silverband road 450m south of its intersection with the Mount Victory road, opposite a walking track signposted to the Pinnacle, among other places. This track climbs steadily for 20 minutes. It then goes slightly downhill, past an outcrop visible through the trees on left after 100m, then in another 100m the track swings sharply left. A faint, old track goes straight ahead from the main track. Follow this faint track for 40m to pick up the first of a series of cairns leading south down to and across a shallow creek-bed, then down the east side of the creek-bed to the extreme west end of the cliff, about five minutes from the track. Either abseil from trees or scramble down 15m east of creek-bed and walk 50m east to cliff. Cliff faces south. Walking time 30 minutes. GR 336854.


Midday Sun 34m 10
Starts at the left end of the cliff at a corner that is capped by a large roof with a hole in it. The thin corner-crack, exiting through the hole. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. 12.3.73

Scarecrow 27m 10
Start 5m right of Midday Sun at a curving corner. Follow the corner on the left wall, when it goes vertical at the bushes, step right and up onto a ledge. Follow Midday Sun through the hole. Bill Andrews, Allan Hope. 1.4.83

Elizabeth Regina 34m 15
The corner/crack 10m right of Scarecrow. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. 12.3.73

Troubadour 28m 12
5m right of Elizabeth Regina in the corner on the other side of the buttress. Up the chimney crack past the overhang and a few chockstones to belay as for Elizabeth Regina. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff. 12.3.73

**Gumwurzle Breakfast 35m 19
A great climb with a perfect crux. Melanie's finest hour, for a week anyway. Start on the first of the smooth rock 40m right of Troubadour below the left edge of a roof at 8m. 1. 15m Up left into the corner and up to good belay above roof. 2. 20m Swing up right through bulge then step back left and go straight up thin seams (crux). Melanie and James McIntosh. 14.1.90

Kind to Dogs And Children 25m 17
Interesting moves marred by brittle rock. Start 25m right of Gumwurzle Breakfast at the right edge of a scrubby slab. Scramble up 8m to belay on block. Up the thin, slightly left leading line to a steep finish. James and Melanie McIntosh. 14.1.90

BA
21/06/2014
3:45:01 PM
Supposedly on Wurzlegummage Walls but actually somewhere else.

All these routes are up cracks in the two concave faces at the right-hand end of the cliff. Possibly not even in the Wonderland Range. Have fun looking for 'em.

Home Alone 30m 16
The crack in the left concave face with the sentry box at half height. Up the face to the crack, the crack to the top. Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence. 10.3.91

Mischief 30m 15
Starts 4m right of Home Alone. Up the crack on chicken heads to finish. Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove. 9.3.91

Touring 28m 14
Start 10m right of Mischief at the second concave face. Good Face moves lead into an ugly crack. Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove. 9.3.91

Trundle 28m 14
Start 3m right of Touring. Up to, and up, the crack. Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove. 9.3.91

Always Bleeding 29m 16
Start 3m right of Trundle. Up the crack to finish through the bulge. Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence. 10.3.91

Chickenhead Farmyard 30m 15
Start 4m right of Always Bleeding. Traverse in from the right and up the crack. Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove. 9.3.91
BA
21/06/2014
4:25:35 PM
FALLEN GIANT

These climbs are about 30 minutes from the car and are found on the smooth wall in front of The Fallen Giant. Access: Either rap in on the photographer’s ropes or walk to the east end of The Giant and scramble down to a largish ledge. Clamber down through the tree and swing around right to get to the base of The Fallen Giant. A lot of bolts have been removed from some of these climbs.
Time from car:
Climbs are described from left to right.

Jack And The Beanstalk 17m 17
Climb the left leading seam 2m left of Baby Beaver to below the bulge, bolt, move left (#4 Friend) and then right to another bolt. Finish through the bulge. Russell Crow. 2.12.89

Baby Beaver 18m 21
There are two bolts (beware of them both) on the left end of the wall just left of the really smooth stuff, climb past them. Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence. 9.12.89

*Ready, Steady, Gleddie 15m 26
Slopes and grit are the order of the day. Climb the blunt arete right of Baby Beaver and at the left end of the smooth wall. Four untrustworthy bolts. Mike law, Stephen Hamilton. 6.1.91

The next two routes are now totally bolt free. The rock is dangerous when combined with carrot bolts, which pull easily after repeated falls onto them. The area is readily visible to tourists and it may therefore be preferable to top-rope these excellent little problems.

*They Might Be Giants 15m 23
An excellent wall 5m left of The Touch. Glenn Tempest, Rob Nabben. 5.1.91
They Might Be Giants LHF 26
Glenn Tempest.

**The Touch 12m 26
“You've either got it, or you ain't.” At the right-hand end of the wall that The Giant has fallen from and where other would be giants will fall as well. Glenn Tempest. 3.12.89
BA
21/06/2014
4:26:18 PM
CHOCOLATE DROP WALL

This steep little wall is immediately west of the Nerve Test. Easiest access would be to rap in (using the photographers ropes again?), or scrambling west from the base of The Fallen Giant or by clambering down one of the chimney/gullies. Despite this it could well become one of the more popular crags in the range.
Time from car:
Climbs are described from left to right.

*Top Deck 27m 22
This fun route should see plenty of action. Start from the top of the detached block on the left side of the wall. Traverse right, along horizontals, past a bolt and continue down and across on jugs to the arete, then up. Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton. 26.11.89

Melting Moments 16m 16
Starts as for Full Cream Milk. At 4m veer left on good holds up the first broken line. Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens. 26.11.89

Full Cream Milk 16m 16
Starts just right of the chimney formed by the fallen block at the left end of the cliff. A hard start with no pro leads to steep but enjoyable climbing. Finish up the second of the three vertical breaks which start half way up. Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens, Glenn Tempest. 26.11.89

**Chocolate Pockets 27m 23
One of the best short pitches around. Take the middle line passing two bolt runners (a second, expansion, bolt has been placed by Glenn to back up the carrot) down low (crux). Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton. 26.11.89

Twirl 15m 20
25m left of CHOCOLATE DROP WALL is a narrower wall of about the same height. Step off the boulder at the righthand end and edge left towards a bolt runner, then follow the right leading seam. Exciting moves to finish past a second bolt. Stephen Hamilton, Tim Bourke, Mark Gommers. 20.1.90

Bertie Beetle 15m 23
On the left side of the Twirl wall. Steep. Up and step right to a bolt, up past another bolt to a steep finish. Stephen Hamilton. 6.1.91

Bloody Man Servant 15m 22
Start 5m left of Twirl and climb the arête. Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence. 6.4.91

A suggested two star combination route which maximises the good climbing is as follows: Climb Full Cream Milk and then right along Top Deck and finish up Chocolate Pockets. Grade 18 with the crux being below the first runner.
gfdonc
22/06/2014
10:01:56 PM
On 21/06/2014 BA wrote:
>WALL OF CHINA (PART 3)

You put Cultural Revolution in there twice, which confused me longer than you'd expect (because I'm writing up left to right). I assume the first one is in the correct sequence.
BA
23/06/2014
10:31:37 AM
I'm just doing a cut and paste and it is in the file I've got - twice! Both descriptions are the same, so that should make it more obvious.
BA
27/06/2014
12:25:42 PM
Now onto the bottom end of the Wonderland Range.


BA
27/06/2014
12:26:14 PM
OLD WAVE WALL

From the Halls Gap - Dunkeld Road turn onto the road that leads to the Millers just south of the Rocklyn Motel. Park the car at the bend in the road (about 100m from the main road). Walk towards the cliff at first through an open paddock, then across a small creek on the right just before the tea tree. Continue up the right hand side of the creek through bracken and then along a shallow grassy gully. Where the gully meets more bracken (before the gully bifurcates) move onto the crest of the spur on the left. Directly up this to the cliff. The original access route has become overgrown and more difficult to follow, I've added a few minutes travelling time.
Time from car: 35 - 45 minutes.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Who Is This Woman Called Steph? 70m 19,M1
This is the first corner on the left end of the cliff, Just left of the "old wave line". 1. 30m Up the sloping corner to a small overhang and continue up the crack above this to a large ledge. 2. 35m Move right and then through the break in the large overhangs. Out right around this with one aid (crux). 3. 15m Either continue left up a grotty crack or move right onto the arête. Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher (alt) 24.11.84

Holidays In The Sun 55m 20
The best-looking line at the cliff. Starts 5m left of When The Tide Goes Out, at the bottom of the brilliant corner that is topped with a roof. 1. 25m Climb the corner using the corner and the arête. Step left under the roof and follow it around and up until it is possible to step right onto the top of it. 2. 30m Step left and follow the crack and corners to the top. Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue. November 1987 NB A better second pitch would be to step right into When The Tide Goes Out.

**When The Tide Goes Out 50m 16
The corner beneath the small roof left of Quantum Leap. 1. 40m Up and left around the roof, continue up the outstanding corner above. Move left at the orange scoop and up to the next roof. Climb left around the arête and up the crack to a stance. 2. 10m Up easily to ledge and abseil tree on the right. Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham. 8.12.84

Quantum Leap 65m 19
The twin cracks in the wall below the large orange roof. 1. 40m up to a ledge. Continue up the corner crack to where you can step left and climb the cracks in the wall to the roof. Step left onto the bushy ledge. Up the crack above, move right, up and back left around the steepening, then up to a ledge. 2. 25m Move 3m up the chimney and then 2m right around the arête, above the overhang. Straight up weakness in steep wall to abseil tree. Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher. (alt) 25.11.84

Happy Hooker 65m 20,M1
The next line right of Quantum Leap. 1. 30m Up the line to the friable roof and swing out right onto rounded lichen country. Move up where possible to a belayable stance above. 2. 13m Traverse right 8m to a corner weakness and up this to the large ledge below an orange roof. 3. 12m Straight up the right facing corner, through the final roof and onto the belay ledge. (Abseil tree 10m on the left.) Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher (alt), Derek Visser, Kelvin Longhurst. 8.12.84
Note: The leader used one aid at the roof that was eliminated by the second. Still awaiting a free lead.

Fossil Crack 20m 14
The crack in the small buttress on the right-hand side of the cliff. Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher. 25.11.84
BA
28/06/2014
11:54:07 AM
DEVILS PEAK (PART 1)

One way to the cliff is to walk up to it from the Grampian Motel below it on the Dunkeld Road. The walk is long, through light scrub and crosses private property. It would be advisable to check with the motel staff before walking in this way. Another way is as for Old Wave Wall, except move a lot further left (south) to the appropriate spur that runs up to the left hand end of the cliff. This large crag has many good lines but they tend to be either loose or dirty or both.

An alternative approach was described in the ROCK guide:

The approach described is direct, does not appear to cross private property and is free of scrub. It is all through attractive, open woodland. The first half is more or less flat. Park on the Halls Gap-Dunkeld road 500 m S of the Grampians Motel, and 150 m S of 'Telopea', at a pair of gravel drives (the S one forks immediately) on the W side. Walk W up the N one (signposted 'the Millers') to a bend at 75 m. Continue W through cleared land and veer slightly N to creek. Walk W up S bank of this, over one tiny tributary, until a tributary enters from the S just before terrain steepens. Continue just S of W up the spur formed between this branch and the main creek. The spur becomes more defined and steepens as S end of cliff is approached. Cliff faces E. Walking time 45 minutes. GR 350846
Time from car: 40 - 50 minutes. From the road to the Millers.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Good Intentions 20m 20
The road to hell... A crack-climb which widens steadily from fingers to off-width (crux!) Take SLCDs to #4 Camalot. This attractive line needs cleaning, and makes The Flagellator obsolete. At upper left end of cliff are two pinnacles about 70m apart and both high on the cliff. Good Intentions starts in recessed alcove below left pinnacle and is distinctive, grey, right-facing flake-crack. Above overhang, belay on ledge on left. Abseil from tree. Chris Baxter, Greg Aimer 9.8.98

The Flagellator 25m 16
Beats me why they called it that. It takes the obvious layback crack beneath the pinnacle at the left end of the cliff. Climb the crack to a narrow ledge below the overhang. Traverse right to the next line, up 5m, then back left to a large ledge. Walk off the ledge to the left. Geoff Gledhill, Bob Connel.l 28.2.70

*Devils Island 40m 22/23
Looks very good. At left end of main section of cliff are two seams up blunt arete below righ one of two pinnacles, and 70m right of first pinnacle. That is, 70m down right of The Flagellator. 1. 20m Right seam to ledge. Right to foot of attractive, right-facing corner. Up this (sustained). 2. 20m Up from right end of ledge. Step left and pass left end of overlap. Veer right up wall towards prow, then up to top of pinnacle. No belay. Abseil. Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood 22.5.95
BA
28/06/2014
11:54:52 AM
DEVILS PEAK (PART 2)


Hot Time 93m 17
Start at the 30 cm diameter stump, 3m high, leaning out from the base of the rock near the left end of the cliff. The climb has no initials, but the wall has been attacked by a piton hammer to indicate the start which is 20m down right from The Flagellator. 1. 28m Bridge up the tree and step across to the face under the roof. Step up and right. Layback and jam past the next roof to a stance. Go straight up the rounded crack to a good ledge. Move up (crux) to a ledge and belay. 2. 10m Layback up and step left. Move right along the ledge for a few metres to a corner, this is directly below a distinct line and above the first pitch. 3. 42m Climb straight up, initially on sound rock, but later on flaky holds, for 38m to a ledge. Move 4m left and belay behind a boulder. 4. 13m Move 4m left and climb the awkward scrubby corner to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Clive Parker. (var) 28.2.70

Route 666 40m 18
Starts 40m left of Satans Exit at a "tombstone" leaning out from the bottom of the cliff. Up the prominent corner to a large ledge on the left. Rap off. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue. 21.1.89

Self Immolation 95m 21
Starts 20m right of 666, and 20m left of Satan's Exit, in a corner below a little roof 4m above the ground. 1. 20m Up around the roof, then up and right to the corner. Up this to a roof, left past a bolt runner to a stance at the base of the corner, move left to the ledge just around the arete. 2. 30m Up the arete for a few metres to a small roof (beware of loose block). Step around right back into the original line. Grovel up to a tree. The crack line on the right wall is initially quite good but the exit up right to the large ledge is awkward and dirty. 3. 45m Move back left into the main line and its continuation to the top. Kevin Lindorff, David Brereton. 17.12.90

Satans Exit 105m M7,15
A selection of almost everything that can be hammered, cammed, or poked into cracks plus things can be hung on flakes is needed for this exercise in the lost art of terrifying aiding. right of Hot Time is a blank corner, on its left wall is a series of cracks with an in situ bong (hands up all those who know what a "bong" is, no it's not for smoking illegal substances. Give up? You'll have to go and have a look won't you?). 1. 40m Follow cracks, the diagonally across the roof and up 7m to belay. 2. 10m Continue up to a tree and belay. 3. 37m The corner above (peg for aid on the bulge) to the bottom of the chimney. 4. 18m Up the chimney to an overhang. Exit left and up to belay. Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (alt), Fred Langenhorst. 10.3.70

* *Black Narcissus 100 m 20
Looks great. Starts up brushed groove in blunt arete 50m right of Satan's Exit, above right side of huge, fallen blocks and just lrft of yellow, undercut wall. 1. 50m Up groove (BR at 12m) to overlap. Go 2m right and up into next groove. Hand-traverse 4m right to foot of crack. Up this to ledge. 2. 50m Step left, then up dramatic crack which gets harder to ledge. Step right. Chimney-corner. Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt), Andrew Reynolds 11.3.96

Hells Angel 35m 16,M3
Starts below an overhang on a small buttress at the extreme RH end of the cliff. A large forked tree, a 2m roof and double set of initials mark the start. A monty to go free. 1. 15m Climb up to the roof on the RH side and traverse left underneath it for 3m towards a cracked bulge. This is climbed with three aids. Straight up for 10m to a small recess in the face and belay. 2. 20m Traverse 2m right, then peg the crack slanting out to the left and free climb to the top. Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett (alt), Bob Connell. 22.11.70
BA
28/06/2014
11:57:06 AM
THE WORKSHOP (PART 1)

New and easier access might generate a bit of interest in this crag. About 20 minutes along the track from the Sundial Car Park are two small cairns on the right side of the track, about 100m past the duckboards. Turn left (east) into the bush and follow 4 cairns over the top of the knoll into a clear area. At the eastern end of the clearing is a cairn on a boulder, turn left and follow more cairns over some large rocks into a broad gully. The cairns lead to a ramp which forms a break in a small cliff and curve right (facing out) finishing on a ledge at the top of Hot Rats. There is a sling on a tree, a double rope abseil gets you to another big ledge where a further double rope abseil gets you to the ground. The trees are about 15-20 cm in diameter.
Time from car:
Climbs are described from left to right.

*Desperately Seeking Shade 40m 17
Starts on the left side of a prominent spike of rock, at ground level, 50 m left of Dreadnought. Up V-corner to ledge then the wall behind to move right past hollow rock and up the easier line to a ledge. Either abseil off (long sling required) or continue up scrubby line and across rightwards to a large abseil tree. Wayne Maher, Andrew Reynolds. 24.2.96

**Dreadnought 45m 16
Highly recommended. Starts low down in the descent gully at the left end of the cliff, at a prominent corner, immediately to its right is a ledge with a burnt out tree. Start from this ledge. 1. 17m Climb the crack until a delicate move left (crux) enables one to move up slightly left to the belay ledge. 2. 15m Move back into the line until the angle eases slightly, then straight up to belay on the ledge on the right. 3. 13m Climb straight up the right hand crack for a few moves, then take the obvious left veering line to the top. Belay on the bushy ledge. Peter Lindorff, Peter Jacob. (var) 15.6.74
Originally done with a peg for aid on the second pitch. FFA Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff & Peter Jacob.
Dreadnought RHV 55m 14
1. 25m Up Dreadnought till able to traverse right at the flake, move right over sloping rock to belay ledge. 2. 30m Back left to beneath the elegant flake crack. Good climbing up this to where the crack ends. An interesting move left, then up to belay as for Dreadnought. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 4.1.75

Gouge ?m 15
Probably under graded. If any body does a route that takes in this crack could they let me have a description. The good crack line up the wall around left of the Ratchet Pinnacle. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff (alt), John McMahon. 1974/5

Ratchet 78m 14
The name says it all! An indirect climb that starts just right of the obvious pinnacle near the left end of the cliff. 1. 25m Climb the left of the two deep cracks for 12m and step into the right hand one. Climb this and move left to belay behind the pinnacle. 2. 15m Move straight up through what's left of the dead tree to belay on a good ledge. 3. 12m Climb the twin cracks up the orange wall and continue up the left hand crack to a good ledge. 4. 26m Scramble up and easily through the scrub to the top. John McMahon, Peter Jacob. (alt) 1.4.73. Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt), Jim Bright 20.10.73 were responsible for it as it's written-up above.

Mallet 65m 15
Start as for Persuader. 1. 25m Up into the chossy gully between Persuader and Ratchet. Up this to the ledge below the obvious line. 2. 40m Up the corner to exit left under the roof and so to a stance and belay. Peter Lindorff, John McMahon. 4.1.75

*The Persuader 90m 18
Steep, awkward and loose. Starts on the arête 10m right of Ratchet. Scramble 6m up to the base of the line. 1. 45m (crux) Bridge, layback and do almost anything else up the line that leads to a ledge and tree belay. 2. 30m Step left with difficulty to the arête. Move left again and up 10m. Regain the arête and follow it spectacularly to the ledge. Move left to the gum tree. 3. 15m Up the beautiful clean corner. Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve. (alt) 15.9.73

*Hot Rats 65m M6,16
A good mixed route done mainly on nuts, it should be well protected when it's attempted free. Shouldn't it? Starts 5m right of The Persuader. 1. 40m (M6) Follow the left crack for 20m Move right using a bolt and continue up to a ledge. 2. 25m (16) Climb the corner to the top. Andrew Thomson, Peter McKeand. (alt) 9.3.74
BA
28/06/2014
11:57:37 AM
THE WORKSHOP (PART 2)


*Midnight Rambler 78m 17
A good sustained climb up a prominent corner line. Starts in the corner 5m right of Hot Rats. 1. 38m Clean sustained climbing up the line past a few difficult sections, leads to a belay off nuts and the horizontal tree. 2. 40m Continue up the line past a few steep sections. Peter McKeand, Keith Wadsworth. 11.3.73
NB The first ascensionists, traversed out left from the ledge at 25m on the second pitch (at midnight). When Peter and Kevin Lindorff repeated the climb on 7.4.73 they added the present finish (in daylight!).

*Chunga's Revenge 66m 19
Even better than it looks. Start 3m right of Midnight Rambler. 1. 30m Climb the corner to the top of the buttress. Move right onto the ledge and belay in the corner. 2. 18m Bridge and layback steeply up the corner to its top. Move right to belay. 3. 18m (crux) Climb the left hand crack. Move left and up the final corner to the top. Peter McKeand, Andrew Thomson. (alt) 15.4.73
NB This route would be really good if cleaned up by traffic. It has been freed with the third pitch finishing up the corner on the right (not left). FFA James McIntosh, Tony Wilson. 5.1.91

Swarff 56m 15,M2
Harder than it looks and loose in places. Starts 30m right of Chunga's Revenge in the next gully. The steep line starting from a ledge 5m up. 1. 21m Climb the steep crack on some loose holds and jams until forced to move right around the bulge. Move up and over the next bulge, continuing on to a good ledge and belay. 2. 15m Up the short closed corner to a ledge. 3. 20m Up using a combination of pegs and nuts to aid the extremely tight and strenuous corner to a ledge. Scramble to the top. John McMahon, Peter Jacob. (alt) 15.4.73

*Impossible Dream 70m 19/20
Walk along the base of the cliff to an area of shattered boulders beneath a large yellow overhang. Right of this is an orange wall topped by roofs. The climb starts from a ledge under these and takes the roof in the right hand corner. 1. 20m Climb out under the roof then up a body length, layback up with difficulty (two 'pipes and a big hex originally used for aid). Where the wide crack finishes, move left and up to a small broken ledge on the right. Up for 3m then up right to the belay ledge. 2. 25m Move up and left under an overhang for 4m to an in situ peg runner. A delicate move left, then up and traverse left for 4m to a ledge. Move back right to a short steep wall, climb the left hand crack until able to move right past loose rock to a bushy ledge and belay. 3. 25m Follow the short corner, then the small chimney and straight to the top. John McMahon, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 16.6.74 FFA Simon Mentz, Greg Pritchard. 21.7.92
BA
28/06/2014
12:02:50 PM
THE OBSERVATORY (PART 1)

New access allows the unpleasant descent gullies to be avoided by an abseil descent. The Workshop descent gully is not nice and the gully between the Sundial and the Observatory is death with knobs on (alluded to in a very understated fashion in the guide). The abseil access is no faster than descending the gullies but it is safer and more environmentally friendly.

The pick of the climbs here to date are Bitch City and Xerxes.

From the duckboards on the Sundial Track, continue for about 300m. After the duckboards there is a section of wood-retained steps, a section of stonework, another section of wood-retained steps and then a solitary stonework step. This step is 50-70m before the turn-off to Delley's Dell. If you reach this turn-off go back. From the solitary stonework step go east (left if heading towards the Sundial) and follow cairns to the top of the cliff. This is less than 5 minutes walk from the track. The cairns finish at an abseil tree (with slings). 35m abseil down steep wall to ledge with tree and abseil slings. Further 35m abseil to ground. The start of Titus Andronicus is just to right (facing cliff). All existing climbs finish close to the abseil tree. (Take your own slings to back up the abseils).

Note that the Workshop access described in the guide is no longer accurate as the View Point signpost no longer exists. The original access cairn exists but this access is superseded by the new Workshop and Observatory access routes. The cairns on the right of the track for the new Workshop access no longer exist. Try step-counting from the end of the duckboards and then look for the cairns.

Going left to right from the abseil descent, facing the cliff, the climbs on The Observatory are:

First Derivative/Titus Andronicus Major black, mossy corner just left of prow of cliff. The First Derivative looks particularly disgusting. Titus Andronicus has cleaner rock and would certainly go free but the lower pitches are unattractive and the final pitch (the first abseil goes down this), while on an impressively steep wall, has poor, sandy rock.

Cyrus 80m 20
The first pitch provides a superior variant to the first pitch of Darius and the finish breaks out into exposed territory. With a little attention from above to straighten out the 2nd pitch and clean up the 3rd, it could be a great route. Gear: #l Rock to #4 SLCD. Start as for Darius. 1. 25m 20 Go directly up the line, keeping left of the roof with bold and spectacular bridging. Easy ground leads up right to 1st belay of Darius. 2. 25m 18 As for Darius. 3. 15m 18 Traverse back right from the belay block to right-leading ramp/comer. Up using wide cracks for protection (rotten, sandy rock) and step right onto face. Up face (dirt/mud, detached block, hollow flake, dubious protection) to lovely belay spot. 4. 15m 18 Superb technical crack. Keith Lockwood (1, 4), Kieran Loughran (2, 3). May 1994

Darius About 8m right of FD/TA.

Good first pitch. Final pitch is a wide crack up the same wall as the finish of Titus Andronicus and features the same unpleasant, sandy rock. (First Derivative/Titus Andronicus share a second belay).

Bitch City 5-6m r of Darius. Right-facing corner just off ground passing small roof at 5m and then the major corner high on the cliff. It is possible that this climb frees Fruity Tutty.

Xerxes "Obvious Line". Presumably the line a couple of m right of Bitch City. This is quite good though the crack on the last pitch is not much fun. Correction to pitch 3 description in guide: 'up the thin corner and past the roof on the right".

Fruity Tutty Exactly where this climb goes is not certain. Looks like it starts as for Bitch City and then moves into the right hand corner at about 7m: the features match but the climbing doesn’t. Maybe they used aid or had long arms. Nothing else on the cliff matches the description of the first pitch. It may also be that Bitch City frees the aided section on pitch two of Fruity Tutty (not at all sure about this). Alternatively, the final two pitches of Fruity Tutty and Xerxes may be substantially the same except that FT aids past the left side of the nose and Xerxes takes the chimney on the right.
BA
28/06/2014
12:03:46 PM
THE OBSERVATORY (PART 2)


Either as for The Workshop or down a steep gully at the right hand end of the cliff. To reach this it is best to walk right up to The Sundial lookout and continue along the cliff until it is reached, but I wouldn't recommend it (and Kieran thinks this descent is 'death on a stick').
Time from car: 40-45 minutes.
Descent: Back along the cliff top and, as it says above, or abseil?
Climbs are described from left to right.

The First Derivative 100m 16
The heavily vegetated second pitch mars an otherwise enjoyable climb. Starts in the black mossy corner beneath the prominent orange wall high on the left end of the cliff. 1. 26m Climb the corner crack until a difficult exit (crux) leads to a vegetated ramp, up this to a detached flake on the right wall. Belay on top of the flake. 2. 40m Move down the back of the flake and traverse left for 12m until able to climb up fairly easily. Continue up past a few trees to the base of a difficult-looking crack on the right. Either traverse right for 5m then up easily and back left to belay on the ledge (as led) or climb straight up the crack with increasing difficulty (as seconded). 3. 34m Bash back a few metres to the line and climb up to a large chockstone which blocks the crack. Surmount the chockstone, then onto a ledge where a clean crack line leads delightfully up the wall on the right. Continue to the top. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff, Peter Jacob. (alt) 9.12.72

Titus Andronicus 93m 17,M3
"A classy climb. The first two pitches are sustained while the last gives interesting aid moves before a free finish." 1. 26m As for The First Derivative. 2. 26m Move down left from the belay into the base of a small black corner. Climb the corner on awkward holds to an undercut flake at 7m (crux). Pegs under the bulge lead to a free exit up the gully to belay on a large detached block on the right. 3. 41m Move left along the ledge for 4m to beneath a thin crack leading straight up the orange wall. Climb steeply up for 7m to the base of the left hand crack. Move up this on a mixture of aids until you can aid the crack on the right, aid this until opposite a bush on the right. Step right onto the crack and free climb this and the short corner on the left to belay on a big gum tree on the right, scramble out. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, John McMahon. (alt) 24.12.72

*Darius 75m 19
Starts 15m right of Titus Andronicus, on the front left hand side of the orange buttress. 1. 31m Up onto the boulder and up the little left hand corner past a small roof. Step 2m right and up the right hand corner to the ledge. Up the easy layback crack to belay on the ledge. 2. 25m (crux) Up the most obvious way until 10m above the belay. Up left using sloping holds onto the sloping ledge. Climb steeply up from its right hand end to a stance below the nose and then up the left side of the nose using 3 - 4 pegs. 3. 19m Up the right hand crack to the top. Peter McKeand, Chris Dewhirst. (alt) 16.12.72

Frutty Tutti 75m 17,M2
Starts 15m right of Titus Andronicus, on the front left hand side of the orange buttress. 1. 31m Up onto the boulder and up the little left hand corner past a small roof. Step 2m right and up the right hand corner to the ledge. 2. 25m (crux) Up the most obvious way until about 10m above the belay. Up left using sloping holds onto the sloping ledge. Climb steeply up from its right hand end to a stance below the nose and then up the left side of the nose using 3 - 4 pegs. 3. 19m Up the right hand crack to the top. Peter McKeand, Chris Dewhirst. (alt) 16.12.72

**Xerxes 72m 19
Continually interesting and varied climbing on superb scrub-free rock. The obvious line which starts at a slight undercut about 7m right of Darius. 1. 25m Up the line to exit from an undercling flake to a ledge on the left. 2. 22m Up the wall to a right ward curving flake. Up via this to belay on a small ledge beneath the roof. 3. 25m Up the thin corner and past the roof on the right. Continue via a hand/fist crack at the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson. (alt) 24.11.79
BA
28/06/2014
12:08:54 PM
THE SUNDIAL (PART 1)

From The Sundial Turntable follow the walking track to The Sundial. Just before the summit follow the track down the gully and around to the left. The track follows the South Face until it becomes the Main Face, the track then heads off south down a ridge. To get to the South Face climbs, follow the track until beneath the climb you want then walk straight up to it through a thick band of Banksia. To get to the Main Face climbs follow the track until it shows signs of heading off downhill and walk up through light scrub to the junction of the Main and South faces.

Time from car: 25-30 minutes.
Descent: Back down the track. You can also go down a steep, dirty, loose, poxy gully at the right hand end (Left hand end looking out) of the cliff, but I would not recommend it (and Kieran still doesn't either). This is the gully referred to as the alternative access for The Observatory.
Climbs are described from left to right.

The Gryphon 82m 16,M4
The first climb you come to on the south face, starts at the obvious cracks beneath the dominating roofs 30m up. 1. 20m Climb 7m to a large detached flake. Step left and awkwardly up over bulge (free crux) to a small grassy ledge, move back right, then up to a good ledge. 2. 28m Climb up easily at first then more steeply to a small nut (in place) beneath the bulge. Step right around the bulge and climb the crack on aid until 5m below the roof a sloping ledge on the left arête can be gained. 3. 34m Step back into the line and move up on nuts to the back of the roof. Peg this until a chockstone in the lip gives an awkward, free exit and then move easily up the line to the top. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff (alt), John McMahon. 26.12.72

**Caucus Race 96m 19
Starts 6m right of The Gryphon. 1. 22m Move up the twin cracks to a ledge at 7m, then follow the line that tends right. Up (crux) until able to pull past the tree to a good ledge. 2. 34m Move up the line to the base of the overhang. Surmount the roof and up to a good stance. Up the line to a grassy ledge. 3. 40m Ignoring the line above, make left for 3m then up until a mantelshelf leads to a flake. Step delicately left past a bush to a bollard. Climb steeply up to a good ledge at the base of the chimney, then more easily to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff. (var) 2.12.72 FFA (One piton) Peter and Kevin Lindorff.

HLion Hearted 75m 20
A fairly sustained undertaking. The elegant line 5m right of Caucus Race. 1. 20m Up the line past two small roofs to belay on a ledge on the right. 2. 15m Follow the corner on the right to a blocky ledge on the left. 3. 49m From the left of the ledge, climb the short wall to the base of a groove-crack. Step right into this and follow the line to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Jacob. 25.11.78

Jabberwock 68m 17
"Beware the Jabberwock my son, the jaws that bite, the claws that catch." A steep and sustained route that starts in the corner 10m right of Lion Hearted. 1. 37m Climb the line for 10m, move left and up through a bushy ledge. Continue almost to the base of a smooth corner then left and up a shallow ramp. Steer right into the corner and climb to the superb ledge under the roofs. 2. 31m Climb the short crack into the corner and continue up a bolt runner. Climb delicately up into the original thrutch of a crack and work your way up the line until you can traverse left into a deep crack leading to the top. Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood. (alt) 11.3.72

Mock Turtle 83m 16
Starts 7m right of Jabberwock. Watch out for rope drag on the second pitch. 1. 37m Up the line for 12m, then left around the block. Continue up the line past two bulges (second one is the crux) then step left onto a triangular nose. Delicately up this for a few moves, then back right to the ledge and belay. 2. 46m Up the short crack which is initially vertical but then bends nearly horizontally left. Move left to the bush and up to a large ledge. Go back and slightly left into the chimney corner line that is climbed to a huge chockstone. Delightfully around this then up tending left to belay on the look out. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 3.2.73

Cheshire Cat 80m 16,M1
Starts 30m right of Mock Turtle. 1. 50m Up a few moves to a ledge. Continue up the line via a few grassy bulges to a good ledge on the right. 2. 20m Move back into the line and up a chimney. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the bulging rock. 3. 10m Up the steep crack, 2 nuts for aid, to a grassy ledge. Make an awkward move off a nut placed high in the crack and then move up more easily to belay on the left. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 15.9.73
BA
28/06/2014
12:11:08 PM
THE SUNDIAL (PART 3)

**The Mad Hatter 95m 16
Starts 40m right of Frumious Bandersnatch. 1. 31m Climb the short corner into the chimney and move up to a ledge on the right wall. Either traverse right to the arête and up the crack and corner or continue up the jam crack directly above (less pleasant). 2. 18m Climb the corner on thin holds on the right. 3. 37m (crux) Start up the crack in the middle of the wall, then step right and climb to the top of the block. Move back left and continue straight up the line to the overhang at 28m Traverse 5m on delicate holds to a rest below the overhang. Layback up to better jugs and continue steeply to a ledge. 4. 9m right under the roof then left onto the arête. Step to the top. Keith Lockwood, David White. Andrew Thomson. (alt) 17.6.72

Mome Rath 97m 15
Starts 11m right of Mad Hatter. 1. 44m (crux) Climb the short corner and move right into the narrow chimney corner. Climb to a ledge on the left and crawl across into the line. Climb straight up the deepening line until bridging leads to face climbing on the right wall, then step back to bridging again. Move past the scrubby niche to the belay ledge on the left. 2. 44m Continue up the line, chimneying to a ledge. Move back right into the corner and bridge up the outside of the shrubbery to exit left onto a ledge. 3. 9m Up the line to the top. Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood. (alt) 4.4.72

Slithy Tove 95m 16
Starts 18m right of Mome Rath. 1. 37m Bridge awkwardly up to a ledge and pull through it on a small tree. Repeat the process through the next section and continue to a ledge on the right. 2. 18m Step left and climb the corner on sharp holds and jams. 3. 40m Move back and climb the clean corner. Continue up the centre of the amphitheatre moving left where two blades begin. Bridge wide up the blades and exit left onto the top. Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson. (alt) 11.3.72

*Vorpal Sword 90m 17
Starts 6m right of Slithy Tove. 1. 22m Climb the chimney crack to a small ledge below the second overhang. 2. 28m (crux) Layback around the bulge with increasing difficulty and up to a tree. Up the wall behind and climb a corner to a large belay ledge. 3. 40m as for the third pitch of Slithy Tove. Peter Jacob, Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (var) 12.3.72 FFA (One aid.) The Lindorff brothers.

Knave 90m 16
Starts 15m right of Vorpal Sword. 1. 30m Climb 10m to the tree on top of the block. Step up off the left hand end and up the crack to a ledge. Straight up the corner to step left onto the prow and belay. 2. 25m An exposed move up right leads diagonally right to the base of a thin crack (just left of the gully). Up this to a large ledge. 3. 35m Move up left to the line then straight up to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Jacob. (var) 11.5.74

Manxome Foe 93m 13
Starts 70m right of Knave. 1. 28m Climb up 15m to a big ledge. Move to the back of the ledge and climb the obvious crack line to a good ledge on the right. 2. 34m Back left into the line and straight up to the base of the chimney which is blocked at the top by a chockstone. Climb this to a large bushy ledge. 3. 31m Traverse right until able to climb easily to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Peter Jacob. (alt) 3.12.72

*Corum's Corner 25m 18
The prominent corner 14m right of Manxome Foe, scramble up to its base. May be undergraded. Paul Kinnison, John Margetts. 2.1.73

Gimbling 20m 20
The line immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off after the obvious belay ledge. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson. 24.11.79

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