I've been pulling info from contributors, Chockstone, thecrag and the VCC website into one document and editing for consistency. I'm currently up to 119 A4 pages, although some of that has hard line endings. I haven't folded in material from earlier guides, such as Melon's 1991 guide.
It seems thecrag is often aligned with BA's text but with usually more brief descriptions and the occasional typo. In many cases I've been using thecrag to check grades and pitch lengths, then adopting the longer descriptions. The VCC website seems to be a more accurate and complete source of truth, albeit older.
I still have a bunch of crags with no route descriptions, although I have half a file of text to check through still. In particular: Blockbuster Buttress, The Grand Canyon, Wall of China, Socrophiliac Buttress, Fallen Giant, Beanstalk Wall, Wurzelgummage, "Old Wave Wall", parts of The Sundial and the Guardians, among others.
If anyone can loan me a copy of the RockGuide from a few years ago that would be helpful. Prime Media have not responded to my enquiries about ordering from stock, if any still exist. Looking for any additional input.
On 16/06/2014 BA wrote:
>Get back to work Kieran.
>I'm just posting all the stuff I've got for Steve and Joe to do a new
>guide. I haven't ever looked at that website, so I have no idea what's
I'm on holidays, but only for another week.
There are now fixed rap anchors down Rolling Thunder. 1x 60m abseil or 2 x 30m. If you choose to do it with a single rope, make sure your rope is really 60m long as the first 30m rap is about 29.5m, so not much room for error.
I should put in a GPS reference for the top of the abseil, that might help.
I might try to fix that topo but I'm still fighting my way around the latest version of Gimp - they've changed the controls around so much.
I have this from someone (probably BA?): Park at the Sundial car-park and follow the walking track north down into Devil's Gap and up onto the top of Bellfield Peak (20-25 minutes). Descend the gully on the north end of the peak and bash back around to the climbs. An abseil approach down 'Rolling Thunder' is convenient to most of the climbs. One 60 metre abseil or 2 x 30 metre if climbing out up 'Rolling Thunder'. Watch the rope ends, there isn't much rope to spare on these.
For the very left end of the cliff (only 1 climb), cut off to the right before the track climbs up to the top.
ACCESS: This area is reached by following either Peuckers Track (recommended), this track starts near the tennis courts (on the north side of the creek) or by initially following the Pinnacle/Mackeys Peak Walking Track. When this latter track (which starts from at the northern end of the camp ground) forks, follow the right-hand (lower) one that leads to Venus Baths and cross the creek. The buttress looks out over the Baths and Socropophiliac is the obvious landmark chimney.
Time from car: 10 minutes.
Climbs are described from right to left.
Put with Mackeys Peak in the original (1975) guide this is an unbalanced little crag (which, incidentally, is just outside the boundaries of the Wonderland Range as defined by Stony Creek at the north end and Silverband Creek at the southern end) with one easy route, two harder ones and zero potential for any further worthwhile development
*High Society 27m 19
Start 4m right of Socropophiliac at a crack. Jam the crack to a break and go right over the bulge on the arête to a ledge. Move left along the ledge to a crack, up this to a short traverse into the top of Socropophiliac. Daniel Brooks, Matthew Brooks. 11.1.91
Socropophiliac 25m 9
Not as bad as the name would imply, but no world-beater either. Climb the short chimney at the left hand side of the outcrop. Clive Parker, Lesley Kefford. 6.9.68
Mums Word 25m 20
Thin and runout. A #4 SLCD and some small TCUs are handy. Start at the slabby arête left of Socropophiliac. Up this for 12m to a gap and a thin horizontal crack. Head right along the crack almost into Socropophiliac then delicately to the ledge. Move left to the arête and over the bulge. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 11.1.91
There is some confusion with the name, does refer to coprophilia or scopophilia? I think it is the latter, as it refers to someone who gets pleasure from looking, and it does overlook the Venus Bath.
ACCESS: As for Socropophiliac Buttress (Peuckers Track) but continue past Venus Baths and along Stony Creek for a further 300m to the steep smooth right hand toe of The Elephants Hide on the south side of Stony Creek.
Time from car: 15 minutes
Climbs are described from right to left (which seems silly but on reflection the only recognizable features are found on the far side).
As they say in the classics; ”And now for something completely different.” What you find here is slab climbing of a sort not often found in the Grampians. The Elephants Hide is a massive expanse of generally easy-angled and broken rock, but here it forms a slab steep and smooth enough to provide some enjoyable climbing.
**Elephant Slide 40m 17
Classic slab to a rap station. Starts in the creek on the right side of the smooth section and has a prominent flake low down. Finish up slightly left to a ledge with a DBB and a fixed wire. 5 BRs. Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton, Josh Holko. 4.1.91
*Protected Species 40m 21
Classic but run-out slabbing. Start above the pool 6m left of Elephant Slide and belay as for that climb. 3 BRs. Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton. 4.1.91
Heffalump Trap For Poohs 43m 19
Starts 2m left of Protected Species. Up past 2 BRs to a ledge, then two more BRs. Step left to the arete. Now climb a short knobby wall (#1/2 flexible Friend) to a large ledge and DBB (8m left of the belay for Protected Species). Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone. 9.2.92
Hide Of A Wino 60m 16
Quite nice but unprotected until a knob at 10m. Start 34m left of Protected Species at the very left end of a small overlap at 3m. Climb over this and up slab for 15m, then diagonally right to some easy flakes. Up the flakes until they run out after 10m, now climb a knobby wall and then diagonally right for 3m across a delicate wall. Straight up easy slab for 10m and then the little wall above. Mike Law. Solo. 4.1.91
Tusker 50m 15
1. 25m Start up huge, L-leading diagonal (lowest one of two or three) 8m L of Hide Of A Wino and follow it to below cave. Up slab above line to cave. 2. 25m (crux) Yellow crack above cave to terrace. Right, then up wall. Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton (alt), Josh Holko 4-1-91
ACCESS: This small outcrop is clearly visible from the Mount Victory Road (when opposite the Elephants Hide) as the square cut buttress on the hillside west of the Elephants Hide. Potential is limited to the point of being non-existent. Approached as for The Elephants Hide, when just past the climbs on the Elephant Hides, angle up the hill to the crag, which is 5 - 10 minutes walk above the creek.
Time from car: 25 minutes
Probably unvisited since the first (and only) climb was put up.
Casting Couch 16m 20
Character building. Take big SLCDs for the roof. The climb takes the corner in the middle of the cliff and exits left around the final roof. Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran. 28.6.92
Could you trust these grades as given by the Banfields? They were both climbing 20+ at the time.
THE GRAND CANYON AREAS
THE MATERNITY WARD
This cliff is found by walking up the Canyon until you come to a large chockstone with a hand rail upon it. On the west side of the Canyon, opposite the rock bridge is where you will find The Maternity Ward. Descent is off the north end of the cliff and down the back (harder than coming up the front so why not reverse one of the climbs?).
Mid Wife 15m 2
Start below the right edge of the wall. Climb up to the ledge and then the arête by easiest possible way. Peter Wood and others. 12.12.87
Humidity Crib 15m 2
Starts just left of the middle of the face. Mount the ledge, and then climb the easy diagonal to the right. Near the top of the cliff move into the small groove. FADU
Nurse In Demand 17m 3
Start as for Humidity Crib. Follow the groove/line that heads straight up. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 12.12.87
Expectancy 17m 3
Start 3m left of Nurse In Demand and climb the face near the faint line. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 6.1.89
THE HIGH CHAIR BLOCK
The block just left of THE MATERNITY WARD. Descent is back down the front of the block (The High Chair).
Light Of Day 15m 7
Start 5m west of the south edge of the block and climb up diagonally to the right. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.11.89
First Steps 15m 5
3m right of the south edge of the block. Up to the arête, then follow it to the top. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.11.89
The High Chair 15m 3
Climb up the front face of the block, keeping closer to the northern edge of the block. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.6.89
The Babies Cot 15m 4
Climb up the front of the block, keeping closer to the southern edge. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.6.89
This is the first really obvious segment of cliff on the west side of the canyon, and is just to the south of the HIGH CHAIR BLOCK.
The Dolls House 25m 4
Just west of the northern edge of the cliff a groove starts. Follow it to the top. The first 2m are much harder, but it can be dodged by starting from the ledge at the side. FRA Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.11.89 FA Dave Witham in 1973
Dummy 22m 5
Start up the groove that goes up the centre of the face. Climb the face by the easiest route. FRA Aidan Banfield, etc. FA Dave Witham. 1973
Dirty Nappy 22m 4
Climb the diagonal groove that goes up the centre of the face. FRA Aidan Banfield, etc. FA Dave Witham. 1973
? 22m 5
Keep left of the gully, towards the arête. Dave Witham. 1973
Babies Bottle 25m 9
Where the south edge of the cliff starts to break up there can be seen a bush below a small overhang at half height. Start below and 2m right of this. Move straight up to the ledge at two-thirds height then climb the jugs to the top. Matthew Allen, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.89
? 25m 8
Around the slight arête to the left, up the centre of the face from the ledge by the small deep pool. Dave Witham. 1985
Scramble up onto the large ledge just above the creek. The easiest way is from below the northern end of the cliff. The climbs start from this ledge.
Bat Cleft 14m ?
Start at the northern edge of the cliff and climb up past the horn and straight up to the top. FRA Aidan Banfield, Gray Box. 17.1.89 FA by a client of Dave Witham in 1986
Cannory 15m 12
Start below the right hand edge of the overhang. Climb up the face and past the small overhang to the right of the main roof. FRA Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.89 FA Dave Witham in 1973 and graded 10
Concave 18m 17
Has been upgraded from 15 since a hold on the lip of the roof was snapped off by a piece of pro, in what turned out to be quite a nasty fall. Climb up to and over the largest part of the roof. Matthew Allen, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.89
Cave Crack 12m 8
Go up the crack come groove on the left of the cave. FRA Chad Banfield and others. 5.1.84 FA Dave Witham in 1973
Cave Climb 12m 10
Start about 3m left of Cave Crack up the vague groove and through the steeper ground. Aidan Banfield and others. 5.1.84
Equality 12m 12
The face between Cave Climb and the southern edge of the cliff. FRA Gray Box, Aidan Banfield. 17.11.89 FA by a client of Dave Witham in 1986
THE KINDERGARTEN FACE
This is the section of cliff to the south of the gully to the south of CAVE CLIFF. It continues right up to the first steel tourist ladder, and is split by one large gully. This is Irritation. The garden part of the name is quite appropriate as the northern (and unclimbed) end of the cliff is quite vegetated. The southern end is relatively solid and clean.
Irritation 10m 6
The crack about 10m right of the ladders. Walk off through the gully behind. Phil Wilkinson, T. Morgan. 1984
Kelly's Climb 15m 3
Take the left hand corner of Irritation and go straight up to the top. FRA B. Starkey 1984 FA Tom Banfield and party mid ‘70s
Bongo's Story Time 18m 8
The face between Kelly's Climb and Jacob’s Ladder. Up to the large dinner plates and then up the arête. Tom Banfield and party in the mid ‘70s
Jacob’s Ladder 20m 6
Starts 4m right of the steel ladders. Climb up to the break in the overhang, and then follow the slight groove to the top. FADU probably Tom Banfield and party in the mid ‘70s
Razor Blade 22m 10
Above the first steel ladder is a smooth blank section of rock. The climb ascends the right hand edge of the blank section then continues to the top just right of the arête. Tom Banfield and party in the mid ‘70's
Nut Cracker 15m 13
Climb the shallow groove on the left edge of the blank section, and then cruise to the top. FTRA Aidan Banfield. 4.2.88
This is the face to the left of the ladders and is the last face on the western side of the canyon.
Adobe 30m 3
A doddle! May be overgraded! Start just left of the ladders in a small gully. Climb either the short corner or the steeper groove to the left. Now climb diagonally left to the top. FADU
Cross Roads 30m 13
Move up the steep groove as for Adobe but then step left and go up the overhang to cross the Adobe diagonal near its start. Continue up the vertical line and finish however you feel fit. Aidan Banfield, Martin Bradshaw. 31.12.88
Fading Heart 30m 13
5m right of Corset. Jump over the creek onto a platform. Pull up on jugs and head straight up and over the overhang. Move onto the top. FTRA Daniel Brookes. 15.1.90 FA Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 11.3.90
Corset 30m 15
left of Adobe there are two definite lines that are more distinct in their lower reaches. The right one is Corset. Through the initial difficulty (the overhang) and then easily to the top. First Climbed by a party instructed by Tom Banfield somewhere in ‘70s
Ravens Lane 30m 17
The other line. Get onto the ledge below the overhang (difficult) and the move through the overhang (crux, with inadequate protection). Follow up the side of the gully and move easily to the top. First Climbed by Tom Banfield and party in the ‘70s
Wrinkle 31m 16
Thin climbing with poor gear. Starts on the left wall of the canyon, about 4m left of THE KING FERN BLOCK, at the base of the thin groove. Climb the groove; with the difficulties easy the higher you get, to a ledge. Scramble off right, along the ledge. Greg Lovejoy, Chris Davies, Mike Kerkin. March 1963
KING FERN BLOCK
It is the large block at the southern end of the canyon.
Descent: Via the back of the block.
King Fern 16m 18
The right edge of the block. Graded 18 on the second ascent. FTRA Aidan Banfield 2.1.89. FA Daniel Brooks 6.1.91
Maya 16m 12
A steep little climb up the middle of the face. Climb straight up for 5m and then either move left and up or continue straight up. FADU
Dirty Peters Sink Hole 15m 11
Walk up past Maya on the left hand end of the KING FERN BLOCK until you can go no further. The climb goes up to and through the hole. Really a descent gully (?) but then it was lead. Peter Wood, Aidan Banfield, Matthew Allen, Tom Banfield, Martin Bradshaw, Chad Banfield and others. 2.1.88
*Tasting Freedom 50m 22
Superb second pitch with spacy pro. Start 5m right of Negro's Crack. 1 20m (18) Start off The Flat Iron, up and right to stance on slabby area below major arête/prow. 2 30m Up to arête and seam, which leads to top pockets (big cam or big nuts). Step left and up seam (crux) and on. Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks. alts 30.12.91
The Negro's Crack 58m 10
Starts 4m left of the Flat Iron. The Flat Iron is a 2.5m high boulder shaped like, you guessed it, an iron. A steep first pitch and an interesting second pitch. 1. 22m Move up the crack for 6m, step left and up the wall and groove to belay on a small ledge on the right. Poor protection. 2. 36m Make a couple of moves up, then right around the corner. Hand traverse 4m right into the chimney and then easily up the crack on the left wall. John McMahon, Colin Lindorff. Alt.Leads 7.3.71
Variant 45m 10: Almost a separate climb with only the start and finish being in common. Start as for The Negro's Crack. Move up for 6m to the base of the gully. Move onto the right hand wall and go up until the chimney becomes more definite. Now cross onto the left wall and move up using the face. First Climbed by Tom Banfield and party, probably mid ‘70s
Purple Hearts 30m 18
Start at the left arête of The Negro's Crack. Both pitches equal in difficulty. 1. 10m Up the arête for 4m then left to belay under the roof as for Heartland. 2. 20m Go right for 3m and climb up jugs on the wall and then up left side of arête, then more jugs. Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks. Alt.Leads 6.1.91
Pueblo 38m 17
Starts 2-3m left of The Negro's Crack. 1. 16m Jump up to reach the jutting flake and up to the overhang. Traverse right to a good belay ledge on the corner of the gully. 2. 22m Traverse left about 2m, before reaching the overhang proceed up to a narrow ledge and traverse left for 4m to the base of a long rounded depression. Climb this on fairly small holds to the top. Russell Sturzaker, A.N. Other. 15.5.67
Heartland 41m 19
Start as for Pueblo. 1. 17m Up through honeycombed rotten rock to belay in the overhang. 2. 24m Pull through the roof on jugs then straight up shallow groove (right of Pueblo's groove) to the top. Peter Stebbins, Martin Bradshaw. 5.12.90
*Black Widow 30m 20
A thin and unprotected crux start. Start up the right side of the chopped out arête left of Pueblo. Follow this and then the pleasant slabby arête to the top. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.91
A Spiced Chicken 38m 13
Starts 25m left of Pueblo. Bridge up the gully and follow the vague line on the right wall to the top. Allan Hope, Ceri Law. 12.2.84
This wall extends left from the edge of PUEBLO WALL, to just north of two gullies separated by a thin buttress, The southern end of the wall is darker and more broken, while the middle section is steep and solid.
Good Vibrations 25m 17
Artificial. Arete at right end of wall and 4m left of Helmet Hanger. Pass low overhang on right. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 5.10.90
Aladdin 26m 13
Starts 5m left of A Spiced Chicken. Reach up to the jugs and climb the steep wall. Move right and climb the obvious line to the top. Iain Sedgman, Mike March. 9.9.73
*Hotel California 22m 17
Start 2m left of Wild Horses. Up to the groove/gully above, a few moves up it, step left and follow the arête all the way. Matthew Brooks. 5.10.90
Wild Horses 25m 16
Start at the base of the sickle shaped line up the central part of ALADDIN WALL. Up past the initial steep rock until the line moves to the right. Continue straight up the face. Protection is poor. Aidan Banfield, Gray Box. 16.11.89
Fire Stone 27m 18
Three metres right of Wild Horses. The brown streak caused by run-off from the right hand gully. Follow the fine edges up to a jug, move up a few more metres. Traverse right (with only poor pro below), to below a slight groove. Follow this to the top. FTRA Aidan Banfield. 4.1.90 FLA Matthew Brooks. 11.3.90
Midnight Blues 24m 23
Start 4m left of The Monkeys. Up and around the left side of the overhang to a ledge. Up the deceptively steep wall via the black streak (crux) and on to the top. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 12.1.91
Hot Summers Day 26m 16
Follow Midnight Blues to the ledge, move left and up the arête to the top. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 2.1.91
The Monkeys 23m 18
The climb starts under a small orange overhang at 4m on the face between The Chimney and Hotel California. Up the right edge of the overhang, then the steep wall above via the grey streaks, and on. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 5.10.90
The Chimney 10m 5
Opposite the Nursery Wall are two steep gullies come chimneys separated by a narrow buttress. The gully to the right (south) of the buttress is where The Chimney starts. Climb up the gully until able to move into a gully to the right (south). Belay at the small ledge. FRA Aidan Banfield, Tom Banfield, Matthew Allen, Martin Bradshaw, Rohena Holland, Hallan Corral, Alcan Corral, Tony Corral, and others from the age of 6 to over 40 (I must have been the only person not invited. Ed.) FA - climbed and named by that man Dave Witham in 1986.
Californian Girls 23m 16
The rib between The Chimney and Helmet Hanger. Poor pro to start. Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks. 5.10.90
Helmet Hanger 25m 9
Martin ended up hanging from his helmet deep inside the crack. The gully left of The Chimney. Bridge the crack on its outside (to avoid difficulty and an embarrassing situation!) Aidan Banfield, Martin Bradshaw. 3.1.86
OG, GOG, MAGOG WALL
EDITED: Two more routes - Good Vibrations and Castelle
Opposite the Nursery Face is a wall split in two by a very large ledge. Below this ledge is a smooth overhang at about 2m height. To its left is a block that is surmounted to gain the descent gully that is at the southern end of the upper section of the wall. This is the easiest descent for all climbs on this side of the Canyon. The climbs split by the large ledge may be of greater use if pitches one and two were considered as separate climbs. For this reason a separate grade is included for each pitch.
Good Vibrations 25m 17
Artificial. Arete at right end of wall and 4m left of Helmet Hanger. Pass low overhang on right. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 5.10.90
Og 22m 13
Start 3m right of the obvious crack through the overhang. 1. 7m (13) Up the face to the ledge. 2. 15m (11) Start 6m right of the prominent chimney, and move up the face, finishing up as slight groove. Peter Wood, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.87
The Wobble 21m 13
1. 6m (13) Start as for Gog and move into the mossy groove immediately right. 2. 15m (8) The arête just right of the chimney. Matthew Brooks. Solo. 3.1.90
Gog 21m 13
1. 6m (13) The crack line through the overhang to the big ledge. 2. 15m (9) Move up the chimney line that splits the cliff above the big ledge. FTRA Aidan Banfield, pitch one only 1.1.87 FA Matthew Brooks. Solo, both pitches 3.1.90
Tyrant 15m 10
Starts on the big ledge and climbs the groove just left of the chimney (Gog's second pitch). Matthew Brooks. Solo. 3.1.90
Magog 22m 13
Start 2m left of Gog. 1. 7m (13) Surmount the overhang 2m left of Gog and move straight up to the ledge. 2. 15m (10) Move up the rounded arête just to the left of the groove which is Tyrant. Aidan Banfield and A.N. Other. 6.1.87
Castelle 15 m 13
Face 7m left of chimney, from terrace. Matthew Brooks (solo) 3.1.90
Pitiful outcrops between the Tower of Paine of and Wild Flower Wall. Not a destination
crag. From NW corner of Halls Gap camping ground, follow the walking track past cliff on
Mackeys Peak and the track joining it from summit of Mackeys Peak. Atop a set of stone steps in the track the track turns L (250 m S of turn-off to summit of Mackeys Peak). Leave the track here and go 80 m up R to the blocky crag visible through the bush. Cliffs face E. Walking time 30 minutes.
Blockbuster 30 m 16
Start on natural, white dot at L end of outcrop. Up middle of narrow face, finishing over overlap. Chris Watson, Bruce Somerfield 10-12-95
Split the Difference 30 m 13
Dirty corner 6 m R of Blockbuster, to terrace. Clean corner on L. Phil Benson, Bruce Somerfield, Chris Watson 14-12-95
Duplo 20 m 10
Blocky arete 1 m R of SD. Bruce Somerfield, Chris Watson 10-12-95
Technic 20 m 11
R ante of Duplo buttress. L through overhang. Finish up flake-crack. Chris Watson, Bruce Somerfield 22-12-95
Happy Meal 20 m 9
Worthless. Corner-cleft 2 m R of Technic. Above overhang step L and climb ante. Bruce Somerfield, Bruce Watson 22-12-95
Breakfast at Macka's 20 m 15
A sickening prospect. Crack 1 m R of HM. Finish up wall just L of leaning tower (landmark). Chris Watson, Bruce Somerfield 14-12-95
Regurgitator 20 m 13
Told ya! At leaning tower on BM go R (squeeze under) and climb wall on other side. Chris Watson, Bruce Somerfield 22-12-95
Tumbledown 30 m 14
From down R of BM, climb front of leaning tower. Across bridge, up headwall. Chris Watson, Bruce Somerfield 10-12-95
Big Mac 20 m 12
Broken. Wall just L of big tree 12 m down R of Tumbledown. L up wall above terrace. Chris Watson, Bruce Somerfield 10-12-95
Slap and Tickle 35 m 13
35 m R of Big Mac is a free-standing buttress with overhang at half-height. Rib on R to ledge at same level as overhang, step L, up wall. Robert Cook, Stephen Hams 22-12 95
This is a little wall located about 200m north of the Pinnacle Lookout. The wall is just right of a "HALLS GAP" sign painted on the rock. The wall faces north.
Time from car:
Two Flake And Chips 35m 22
Starts 1m from the right-hand corner, at the flakes. Excellent climbing but a bit sandy. Layback the left facing flake until it runs out (now that is what I call fresh flake. Ed.), clip the BR and change to the right-facing flake (crux). Follow this to top. Geoff Butcher. 4.5.91
This crag also has some good short face climbs. Some may require cleaning but protection, on the whole, is excellent. Access is as for The Sign Cemetery. From the main track, a distinct track leads downhill for 25m and right to a large boulder. Walk 100m to the right to the cliff.
Time from car:
Climbs are described from left to right.
Red Dwarf 11m 22
The bold arête at the left end of the cliff, only two runners. Stephen Hamilton, Rob Nabben, and Kryten! 2.12.89
*Antz Pantz 13m 25
Start up Positively Negative, then go left after moves off the block. Then follow the seam past two BRs. Glenn Tempest, Andrew Stevens. 6.1.90
*Positively Negative 13m 21
Good face climbing on small edges, take small wires. Step off the boulder in front of the left hand end of the cliff and on to the wall. Make a small step right and go up. Stephen Hamilton, Rob Nabben, Andrew Stevens. 2.12.89
Give The Dog A Bone 13m 20
The obvious line just right of Positively Negative. Jump for a hold, then scurry up to a difficult stance. Onwards. Stephen Hamilton, Rob Nabben, Andrew Stevens, Peter Stevens. 2.12.89
Dreamtime 15m 18
Start 1m right of Give The Dog A Bone. Climb up the line to a horizontal break, then up the crack. Geoff Butcher, Gary Schmitt, Peter Stevens. 2.12.89
Suzie's Ozzie Root 12m 9
The chimney crack right of Dreamtime. Matilda Schmitt, Sue Putman. 2.12.89
Just An Easy Climb 8m 10
Climb the crack 8m right of Suzie's Ozzie Root to a cave. Gary Schmitt, Sue Putman, Matilda Schmitt. 2.12.89
This little gem is 50m up and left of Beanstalk Wall (part of Beanstalk Wall?).
Time from car:
Climbs are described from left to right.
Sweet Pee 15m 21
Start below the crack that starts at about 3m up, towards the left end of the cliff then climb the bulges above. Andrew Stevens, Rob Nabben 16.12.89
Zot's Hang-out 15m 20
Climb the right facing flake-corner 2m right of Sweet Pee, which is followed by hard moves over the bulge. Rob Nabben, Andrew Stevens 16.12.89
Happy Herman 15m 21
A good well protected climb that starts from the balancing block 15m right of Zot's Hang-Out (or direct at grade 22). Go up to and over the bulge, then follow the orange rib to a BR with a hanger. Right and up, then back left. Andrew Stevens, Rob Nabben 6.1.90
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy."
This is the small wall above and left of NEUROLOGY WALL, the right side of which has three chimney cracks. If it's the wall I think it is, then access is via the western edge of the descent gully to Neurology wall. Keep as close as possible to the edge of the gully and when the distinctive roof of the Aboriginal centre (on the valley floor) comes into view a ledge should be visible in front of and below you. Gain this ledge by either climbing down a dirty corner or rapping.
Time from car:
Climbs are described from right to left (I think).
Carbo Overload 10m 18
Up left of Al's Anxiety to the horizontal and then climb the crack. Geoff Butcher. 25.11.90
Al's Anxiety 10m 17
Starts 1m left of Headache. Nice climbing on edges with two BRs. Geoff Butcher. 25.11.90
Headache 15m 9
Climb the wall and arête left of the left most line. Matilda Schmitt, Gary Schmitt. 20.1.90
Migraine 15m 10
Climb the arête and wall right of the left most line. Gary Schmitt, Matilda Schmitt. 20.1.90
My Migraine 15m 10
Climb the wall 2m right of Migraine. Gary Schmitt, Matilda Schmitt. 20.1.89
Editors Egress 10m 5
The chimney second from the right. This climb is on the cliff described above. Bill Andrews. Solo. 10.9.90
Ahh .. another Wall Of China ... and much confusion can now ensue. First up is the file I have, then a pile of Beta from the late Wade Stevens and there is a registry error that stops me from opening Corel Ventura to access the Update that Wade mentions. You can have this lot while I try and get Ventura to work.
WALL OF CHINA (PART 1)
Black Russian 20m 23/24
Start 20m left of the Echo Cave sign. A tricky reach dependent crux at the bolt brings easier but sustained climbing which gradually eases. Move slightly right, and then more easily up to finish. Simon Carter, Tony Keeble. February 1990
Year Of The Tiger 25m 18
The major corner crack in the right arête of the Well Hung face, 3m left of Black Russian. Take a #4 Camalot. Finish up the left crack above the overhang. Chris Baxter, Sophie Brown, Marcel Geelen. 13.9.97
Shogun 27m 19
Start 2m right of Well Hung. Follow right leaning diagonal seam and then to next break, Step 1m left, up 2m and then back into line and up. Campbell Mercer, Mike Woolridge. 30.12.97
Well Hung 27m 18
Beautiful wall climbing up the seam in the middle of the wall around left of Black Russian. From the big dead tree follow the seam. Veer up left on the low angled section to pull over the bulge for the steep conclusion. Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter. 14.4.90
Hu Flung Dung 23m 19
From top of highest pile of rocks against left side of wall 1½m left of Well Hung. Climb the seam and pocketed wall, veering slightly left to finish up the vague, juggy arête. Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher. 26.11.94 (Repeated as Noble House by Mercer/Woolridge.)
China Crisis 25m 18
Start 1.5m left of Noble House at the thin crack. Up crack and wall above to finish through the "V" notch in the rooflet above. Mike Woolridge, Campbell Mercer. 30.12.97
Hung Low 27m 16
Start in the cleft immediately right of the ugly groove up the right side of the pinnacle (the left side is taken by Ming). Bridge up and pull across into the seam, which is climbed up the right arête of the groove. Finish up right over the final overhang. Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter. 14.4.90
Ming 28m 10
Starts at the right hand end where a detached block forms a step. 1. 10m. Climb the left hand edge of the block and belay on its top. 2. 10m. Lean across to the main wall and climb up to finish just left of the gully. Take care, as the summit blocks are loose. John McMahon, Peter Lindorff. Alt.Leads 9.10.68
Some confusion exists about the next couple of climbs.
Peking Duck 18m 19
Starts 2m right of Checkpoint Charlie off left side of block. Thin moves off block leads to BR, over bulge (crux) and straight up. Geoff Butcher, Mark Crisp. 27.4.96
Honkers 18m 18
May be a repeat of the next climb. Start 1.5m to the left of Checkpoint Charlie. Up on excellent pockets. Good pro. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97
Checkpoint Charlie 18m 18
Start just at the end of the large boulders left of Ming. Pretty much straight up the black streak past a BR. Some slightly suspect rock near the top. Paul Bayne, Stuart Gardner, Simon Carter. 29.11.89
Tartrazine 18m 20
A bit of hyperactivity will help! Start as for Sacred Ground. Clip the BR on that route then head up right across the black streak and up the centre of the small orange wall on the right of the black streak. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97
**Sacred Ground 25m 22
Excellent, strenuous wall climbing with excellent pro. Start at the black streak left of Checkpoint Charlie. Up to a BR and up on pockets left of the streak, then up the steep wall left of the black groove. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 12.1.91
Sprung 25m 21
Named after an incident during the first ascent. Starts 2m left of Sacred Ground. Follow pockets and 4 BRs up wall to easier ground. David Singleton and Rebecca Butcher. January 1995
Blue Sky Mining 18m 23
Start 25m left of Checkpoint Charlie. A very well protected wall that offers excellent pocket pulling. Up past 4 BRs. Simon Carter. February 1990
Kung Fu 23m 12
On the left hand end of The Wall Of China are two descent gullies with a chimney on their right. Beside this there are three cracks close together. Kung Fu is the one on the right. Mike March, Terry Brooks, Iain Sedgman. 15.9.73
Rickshaw 23m 13
The crack left of Kung Fu. Mike March, Iain Sedgman. 15.9.73
The Good Soldier Schweik 23m 21
Start at a roof capped corner immediately left of Fire Dragon. A deceptively steep crack and wall leads to a large ledge followed by a short wall behind. Simon Barnaby, Stuart Gardner. 29.11.89
Fire Dragon 23m 16
The crack left of Rickshaw. Mike March, Iain Sedgman, Terry Brooks. 15.9.73
Little Bourke Street 27m 15
Pull up onto the ramp immediately left of Fire Dragon and follow it up left, step left where it runs out and head up and slightly left on the delightful wall. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter. 17.4.90
Little Bourke Street Direct Start I5
Start a few metres left of original route behind at Callitris pine. Straight up on superb letterbox incuts to join original climb at end of ramp. Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith, Andrew Webb. April 1995
The Iron Rooster 27m 17
Great fun! Outrageous climbing on fantastic edges and amazing pockets. Good pro. Start at the chimney 3m right of Tibet. Bridge up the chimney for 3m to gain the obvious horizontal break on the right wall. Traverse right along the horizontal break for 3m, up to the next break and then traverse further right for another 2m. Up the wall above. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97
Chin Chimney 20m 5
Up the chimney just left of Fire Dragon to the chockstone (only runner), move out to the edge and climb the left wall to the top. Mike March, Nick Reeves. 22.9.73
Mao 25m 17
Excellent and surprising climbing with excellent pro. 4m to the right of Tibet is an arête. Up the arête to the bulge. Step left to the vertical groove that brings you out onto the arête again. Up. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97
Gang of Four 25m 16
2m to the right of Tibet. Bouldery start off the undercut slab leads to a nice line - follow directly through the bulge and up. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97
Tibet 25m 16
From the top of the detached flake on the ground, 4m right of U Pong, step left and climb the seam to the bulge. Step right and climb the steep groove. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter. 17.4.90
Tibet Direct Finish 25m 16/17
Not sure why the original route didn't stay in the line! Instead of stepping right at the bulge head straight up on good holds. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97
U Pong 25m 18
Good face climbing. Climb the thin crack 6m right of Chinese Take-Away. Move up slightly right to the headwall, then steeply up and left. Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter. 28.4.90
Chinese Take Away 20m 13
The prominent overhanging line near Chin Chimminy. Step up and move right to the thin crack and over an overhang with loose rock to the top. Jerry Maddox, Iain Sedgman, Richard Hitchins. 30.12.78
Chinese Take Away Direct Start 18
The thin crack. James McIntosh, Peter Jacob, Andrew Webb. 18.10.98
Fook Hing 20m 20/28
A nice route. Start at the base of Pig Tail. Edge right, then up and traverse right to the dubious block on the arête. Continue around right and up. Stephen Hamilton, Nick Tapp. 22.4.90
Trading Places 15m 18
From the base of Pig Tail step 1½m right to the incipient crack. Up. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97
Pig Tail 15m 9
On the right wall of the second gully left of Chin Chimney. Jam up and around the bulge and continue easily to the top. Nick Reeves, Mike March. 22.9.73
In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. This is China Syndrome.
China Syndrome 15m 18
Don't meltdown on this one! In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. Start at the small ramp immediately to the left of this thin crack. Step up and right into the crack and then power directly up the wall above. More problematic than it looks. Campbell Mercer, Mike Woolridge 30.12.97
Directly southeast of Pigtail is a free-standing pillar. There is a crack and then a water runnel that splits its west face. This is ...
Chinese Burning Tower 15m 16
Add about 8 grades if you don't use a "cheater stone" to reach the twin knobbed nodule up and just right of the initial crack!! Up crack and runnel above. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 28.12.97
Shanghai 18m 12
Immediately right (south) of Chinese Burning Tower is a crack on the south face. Up. (Don’t bridge into Chinese Burning Tower). Mike Woolridge, Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer. 28.12.97
Cultural Revolution 17m 15
The arête right of Sang Kyu Bai. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97
Sang Kyu Bai 17m 16
Start 2m right of Chow Su Pow. Climb the middle of the face and move left a little to finish. Nick Tapp, Stephen Hamilton. 22.4.90
Yangtze 17m 14
The left arête (right arête of Chow Su Pow chimney). Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97
Chang Jiang 17m 19
Up the centre of the wall. FTRA Campbell Mercer. 28.12.97
Cultural Revolution 17m 15
The arête right of Sang Kyu Bai. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97
Chow Su Pow 17m 4
From the left most of the two descent gullies walk left through the slot against the cliff to the chimney 15m left of its left end (i.e. the second chimney). Climb the chimney for 2m then the left arête . Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter. 14.4.90
The next two routes are on the wall immediately to the left of the above wall (ie Chow Su Pow is on the right arête )
First Flight to China 17m 15
(A groundfall on the first ascent when a hold broke kept things interesting!) From the centre of the wall follow the thin crack up to the horizontal break. Step right and then up the steep juggy runnel above. Mike Woolridge, Campbell Mercer. 30.12.97
The Great Leap Forward 17m 15
From the centre of the wall follow the thin left leaning diagonal crack up to the left arête . Up the left arête to the rooflet. Step up and left through the rooflet. Campbell Mercer, Mike Woolridge. 30.12.97