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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
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Author
So you want to climb Bunny Bucket Buttress…

nmonteith
9/06/2014
10:21:12 AM
Get a bigger screen phone!
martym
9/06/2014
7:40:30 PM
On 8/06/2014 nmonteith wrote:
>I just take a photo of the guidebook on my phone and have my phone in my
>pocket. It also doubles as a light, messaging service and camera.

How long do you get out of your battery? Have you got one of those re-fill kits?

nmonteith
9/06/2014
9:46:25 PM
Just put it on airplane mode when you're not using it and it will last 4+ days.

Zarb
28/04/2016
3:09:14 PM
Thought I would revive this thread for a quick question...

What's people's preferred method for climbing as a group of three on BBB? When I'm in a pair, I normally do BBB with a single and tag line to pull the rope on the abseil. However I'm assuming that one rope length (60m) is not enough rope to get two seconders up some of those pitches, and on the first few pitches especially I can't just lower the rope end back down to the next seconder...

So just take two singles and have them each on their own ropes belaying via guide plate? And on the lower pitches and the cave pitch, clip both ropes into separate draws hanging from the same bolts on the traversing sections so they don't pendulum?

deadbudgy
28/04/2016
3:39:06 PM
Yeah. I'd use two singles. You lead on the first rope. The second climber trails the second rope and clips this back through the gear as they pass each draw while being belayed on the first rope. The third climber cleans the pitch while being belayed on the second rope.
johnpitcairn
28/04/2016
3:48:05 PM
If the pitches are longer than half a rope length, either:

Get the second to tie into both ropes and re-clip the trailing one behind them. Third is tied into the trailed second rope. Then you bring them up separately. Third cleans the draws.

Or you tie in to both ropes and lead as if on half/twin ropes (use twin-rated ropes if you have them), then have both seconds climb simultaneously, 15m or so apart on separate ropes. Use long + short draws on the bolts to clip separately for singles/halves, or if the rope is twin-rated just clip both ropes to the same draw EVERY time. More work belaying them for you but quite a bit faster. Second/third only unclip/clean their own rope. The third needs to maintain that 15m separation to avoid getting clobbered on rope stretch if the second falls.

Practice lowering seconds on a guide plate first ;-)
widewetandslippery
28/04/2016
4:46:16 PM
As an aside, know how to walk out. Its shitty but better than a rescue.

Drake
28/04/2016
5:22:33 PM
>> What's people's preferred method for climbing as a group of three on BBB?

Apologies for being flippant, but my preferred method is simply not to. Groups of three on long multis tend to be very slow and prone to clusterf*cks, particularly with beginners.
patto
28/04/2016
5:59:20 PM
On 28/04/2016 Drake wrote:
>Apologies for being flippant, but my preferred method is simply not to.
>Groups of three on long multis tend to be very slow and prone to clusterf*cks,
>particularly with beginners.

I think history has shown that groups of two are quite prone to clusterf*cks on long multis such a BBB. In contrast if you have competent people then groups of 3 can be a perfectly safe, fast and fun way of doing a climb.

I generally find moving as a group of 3 only slightly slower than moving as a two. Belay change overs can be fast. There is only a little extra time for seconding if you belay them simultaneously. Hanging belays can make things a little more challenging and time consuming though.

(The first and only time I've climbed BBB it was in a group of 3.)
mikllaw
28/04/2016
6:17:22 PM
3 fast people aren't a problem.

3 slow people, no matter what belay/rope setup, will take about twice as long as 2 slow people. Find someone else and make 2 ropes of 2.

Zarb
28/04/2016
6:45:43 PM
I've (unfortunately) done the walk out before. They are both quick climbers, just never done BBB and want someone who's done it before.

We will do it mid-week, and camp the night before so we have lots of time.

JamesMc
28/04/2016
6:50:59 PM
Why not climb with old school double ropes so the seconds can simulclimb? Did Gmoser route in Canada that way last year. It's 3X as long as BBB.
martym
30/04/2016
10:39:26 PM
On 28/04/2016 Zarb wrote:
>I've (unfortunately) done the walk out before. They are both quick climbers,
>just never done BBB and want someone who's done it before.
>
>We will do it mid-week, and camp the night before so we have lots of time.

If you've done it before and you know your friends can climb it - you'll be fine.

How thick are your ropes? That's going to be the clincher - having two thick ropes in your ATC. If you plan on regular threesomes - double ropes would be a great investment.

Alternatively - what about taking two gri-gris? Would make life way easier. I can't see how that would be different to some of the weirder belay devices out there.
patto
30/04/2016
11:25:44 PM
On 30/04/2016 martym wrote:
>How thick are your ropes? That's going to be the clincher - having two
>thick ropes in your ATC. If you plan on regular threesomes - double ropes
>would be a great investment.
Decent guide plate devices are not an issue at all with belaying single ropes at the same time. I've never had issues with ropes <10.5mm. Though certainly some are better than others. I hear the DMM pivot is pretty good.

>Alternatively - what about taking two gri-gris?
You serious? Gri-Gris aren't reliable for locking up unless the brake strand is tended. Guide plates are far lighter, easier and safer for such a role.

Timfreddo
1/05/2016
8:13:13 AM
On 30/04/2016 patto wrote:.
>
>>Alternatively - what about taking two gri-gris?
>You serious? Gri-Gris aren't reliable for locking up unless the brake
>strand is tended. Guide plates are far lighter, easier and safer for such
>a role.

Might be far easier and safer for you Patto,

I think the climbing community needs to be very careful about telling people they should be using guide style devices. Lots of people don't realise how difficult a procedure it is (for some people) to unlock and lower smoothly if needed
.. Another person got dropped just the other day from an incompetent belayer using a guide device to belay from above on a multi-pitch route..
.

Gnaguts
1/05/2016
10:13:44 AM
On 1/05/2016 Timfreddo wrote:
>On 30/04/2016 patto wrote:.
>>
>>>Alternatively - what about taking two gri-gris?
>>You serious? Gri-Gris aren't reliable for locking up unless the brake
>>strand is tended. Guide plates are far lighter, easier and safer for
>such
>>a role.
>
>Might be far easier and safer for you Patto,
>
>I think the climbing community needs to be very careful about telling
>people they should be using guide style devices. Lots of people don't realise
>how difficult a procedure it is (for some people) to unlock and lower smoothly
>if needed
>.. Another person got dropped just the other day from an incompetent belayer
>using a guide device to belay from above on a multi-pitch route..
>.
Yeh an I heard a numpty euro botch bolted near bbb an someone died relying on it. Also anotha numpty connected quick draws to biners with the rubber rings a while back an a kid died climbin on them so I'm giving up botched boltz an Orings 4 sure.

U can't B 2 careful when it comes to numpty watch as they do the most amazing things, an itz not like climbing iznt dangerous enough already.

If U want further proof just ask our fiend Eddy cos he has the survival scars to prove it.
patto
1/05/2016
2:41:17 PM
On 1/05/2016 Timfreddo wrote:
>
>Might be far easier and safer for you Patto,
>
>I think the climbing community needs to be very careful about telling
>people they should be using guide style devices. Lots of people don't realise
>how difficult a procedure it is (for some people) to unlock and lower smoothly
>if needed
>.. Another person got dropped just the other day from an incompetent belayer
>using a guide device to belay from above on a multi-pitch route..
>.

Yep. Numpties can do stupid things. In fact numpties can get themselves into trouble even in the most text book of cases.

Meanwhile do you really think using the suggested two two gri-gris to belay seconds is preferred! :-O

timfreddo
1/05/2016
6:10:19 PM
On 1/05/2016 patto wrote:

>Meanwhile do you really think using the suggested two two gri-gris to
>belay seconds is preferred! :-O

Nah.. can't trust 'em with a gri gri either, coz you're not allowed to use gri gri's in them Gyms :)
martym
1/05/2016
7:50:00 PM
On 1/05/2016 patto wrote:
>On 1/05/2016 Timfreddo wrote:
>>
>>Might be far easier and safer for you Patto,
>>
>>I think the climbing community needs to be very careful about telling
>>people they should be using guide style devices. Lots of people don't
>realise
>>how difficult a procedure it is (for some people) to unlock and lower
>smoothly
>>if needed
>>.. Another person got dropped just the other day from an incompetent
>belayer
>>using a guide device to belay from above on a multi-pitch route..
>>.
>
>Yep. Numpties can do stupid things. In fact numpties can get themselves
>into trouble even in the most text book of cases.
>
>Meanwhile do you really think using the suggested two two gri-gris to
>belay seconds is preferred! :-O

Well that's assuming seconds will be climbing simultaneously double-rope style. If you wait for each to finish you could easily swap ropes in the one gri-gri.
The only reason to use a guide/reverso with two ropes is if both climbers come up at the same time. BBB doesn't really lend itself to that - definitely not the second half - so just take one gri-gri for the top belay.

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There are 59 messages in this topic.

 

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